Thanks for the great feedback so far! Keep it coming!! The original island was 8'x3'8'. The new version is 4'6x8'. It was initially supposed to be a workspace/table combo, but I realized to Lisa's point that it will really be only used as a table if we keep it like that. I also had the concerns about more appliances than storage, and that's part of why I started modifying the island. If we were to use the architect's design as is, we would add an additional workspace, much like you did. We were thinking something less fixed, like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/architectural-portfolio-eclectic-kitchen-portland-phvw-vp~2936999) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Vancouver Photographers Shawn St.Peter Photography However, our concern is that with 2 islands and the corner nook, it starts to get very cluttered and busy. That led me to want to move the dining area to the nook and use the island as a work station w/ more storage. There are only 2 of us for now, but with house guests and entertaining, we would want to be able to seat 4-5 regularly and 6+ for special occasions. You make a good point about the limited side seating, so we will remove it. I'm glad you all pointed out the issue with the dinnerware being so far from the dishwasher. My concern is that if we move the sink/DW back to the corner, there's not really any more storage over there, and then the sink is really far from the fridge. We could put the dinnerware and glassware in the uppers over the DW in my layout to resolve the issue, and then would just need a place for the flatware - either over the tupperware or back in the corner by the ovens. I could also probably get 18-20" of drawers next to the DW if I cut the tupperware/wraps drawers in half and take the extra 6" from the drawers on the other end (which would also put more counter space between the sink and ovens). OR the dinnerware/flatware could go in the drawers on the end of the island. So let's assume we can solve the storage location issue - would you still move the sink? (I don't think we could do a second sink because of the costs, so let's assume only 1.) How does the pantry on the left allow more space for the fridge doors? We would have french doors on the fridge, so I assumed it wouldn't matter which side. I actually wanted the left originally so I could put stuff from the fridge directly on the counter to the right, but since the laundry and pantry are paneled it looks better to flank the fridge with them. I guess if we kept all cabs the same color, it wouldn't matter as much. We put the fridge and pantry at the same depth as the laundry for 3 reasons: 1. a 36" deep fridge would look built-in without built-in prices 2. deeper pantry = more storage and 3. if we put the "tall things" in a contrasting color to the other cabinets, we would want them all flush so they form a wall. We haven't seen the ovens under the counter in person. We are planning on using the new Bosch swing door ovens, so hopefully that helps with some of the bending issues (only down vs. down and over). It does mean that we would want 30" clearance on either side, though, for the door to swing out. There is also a chance we may not be able to use both ovens because we only have 100 AMPs and it would be very $$$ to upgrade, so we could reduce to a double wall oven or just a single. I'm not a huge fan of the double wall oven because it seems like the top oven is too high to easily see and reach inside. However, I don't have personal experience using them so maybe it's not really an issue? Here is the link to my other post for reference: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/remodel/msg0812432221051.html I plan to add an update as soon as we make a final decision on the contractor!

Now that I zoom in the window, I see what you mean. Hard to tell since the plan shows a box, pic looks flat, and there's no interior shot. How to deal with it? Maybe leave that window as it is; The former front door could be a round or octagonal window, which would suit the house, and not put the stair hall on display lol! What I ment by recessed front door is, that part is stepped back from the front build line. Your "photoshop" looked like it was all even across the front on my screen, maybe it's must my screen (or eyes). Either way, I think it's a great idea :) I like some protection for a front door, and I suspect that the front door as originally built is right at the permitted build line, and adding an overhang wouldn't be allowed. So where you suggest it allows for an overhang of some kind, even if it's just a pergola.

Electric my entire life. New build and went with gas. I wanted to run both gas and electric for the 'someday when induction prices come down' but dh would not have it. Gas it is! I agree with fishcow. My electric low would never be low enough and things left to just stay warm would always cook to the bottom of the pot, grrr. I was concerned with my kiddos just starting to cook and changing from electric to real live fire but they have done really well (10 and 13). I do have to remind them not to preheat the burner (after my own OOPS holy cow this thing is hot NOW) - be ready to cook when you turn that baby on. With electric it took forever so it was common to turn it on with the pan on the burner while preparing the food we were going to cook. And I did have to adjust to not seeing the idiot light that the burner was on. I did leave the burner on a couple of times when we first moved in. One other thing I didn't realize sort of is burner configuration. I did research and new each hob put out different btu's but until I used it I didn't really 'get it' as to how much different that really is. The high output boil this water burner is so much hotter that if I cook on it like browning meat it's just a little out of control it's so hot. That burner however is also my simmer burner (it has two fire rings) and it works awesome for that too. I initially tried to just stick with that one burner (as I pretty much did with my electric as the jack of all trades) but it just is that much different it's better suited for certain things. I use more burners now than I did before. We have adjusted relatively unscathed.

If we don't find an acceptable elevation then perhaps we are back to a new floorplan. Well, yes - just because the two are inextricably linked. Every time we tweaked our floor plan, the elevations changed in kind. Not always just to accommodate the change physically - sometimes things need to change visually. Roof over the main living area went up - roof on front porch goes from gable to hip, in order for balance to be maintained. When I asked, Mark said, "Every line has a reason." So now, when I see change I just ask, "What is the reason for that?" And I learn something, and the design stays balanced. Therefore, in order to get an elevation you are happy with, the floorplan will need to change. What you'll need to keep in mind is that the simple shapes of the elevation are what you need to get right. That's the cake. The styling can then be laid over top - frosting. Then whatever little detail touches *cough* Swedish window trim, if you're me *cough* - think of that (or your cupola) as the "sprinkles." Cake, THEN frosting, THEN sprinkles. But you make the inside of the cake and the outside of the cake at the same time. And you can't fix a bad cake with more frosting. (Go cue up "Nailed It!" on Netflix for visual evidence of this).