Hellebores have made me rethink what it means to be a sun/shade plant
perennialfan275
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agomxk3 z5b_MI
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Have daylilies /raspberries/hellebores for trough plants
Comments (5)I would be interested in your Hot Embers and Double Red Daylilies. I have Bloodroot, Lungwort,water perry and different coneflowers other than the magnus and white swan and also many named Dl's if you want to do a larger trade.Please email me at Tigger21264@hotmail.com...See MoreMorning Shade/Afternoon Sun - what should I plant?
Comments (20)The purple flowers at the top of the fence are from Clematis Etoile Violette, a viticella clem that is very easy to grow. It is a very dark purple which is set off well by the very pale pink of the New Dawn rose. The picture was taken June 14, 2007. The bluer purple flowers at the bottom in the shade created by the rose are Zwanenberg Blue Spiderwort (Tradescantia). I just realized that I didn't show you any of the hybrid daylilies that are in the niddle portions of the long narrow bed. Didn't want you to think that there are only the orange ditch daylilies (Hemerocallis fulva) that are shown in the 1st picture! The fulvas (spreading not clumping dls) are in the northwest corner in almost total shade due to the northern exposure and an overhead tree. These started blooming this year on June 10th. The dozen hybrid daylilies in this narrow bed are all new plants and eventually I'll have to move about half of them somewhere else when they grow too crowded. So don't be too concerned about overcrowding your bulbs - most all of us overcrowd something sometimes and then have to move things around. LOL I also wanted to mention that I tried to stagger the daylily bloom (mostly July bloom) in between the early June blooming Asiatic lilies & the late July blooming Orienpets, but tried to keep most things in the same red/yellow/cream color scheme because there is bound to be some overlap. The only exception was the New Dawn rose which is at the far south end near the fence - because that's the only space I have that is big enough. She can put out 20 foot long canes which I wrap around the corner walls on both sides. She has one main flush in early June and some scattered later bloom as does the clematis. The rebloom clashes a bit with the daylilies strong colors, but not enough to matter much. I am just mentioning all this to give you an idea of the progression that goes on in the bed through the season, even though it is a very narrow bed. I still have one cream-colored daylily , copper colored helenium, Orange Perfection phlox (not really orange in color) in bloom, along with some bronze-colored mums that are just starting & some rebloom on the spiderworts and clemmies. Oh, and I forgot to mention some blue berries on the Variegated Porcelain vine which is on the wall between two of the clems. Here are some of the daylilies. With various dls blooming at slightly different times, I get some nice punches of color over a period of about 6 weeks. Not boring waiting and watching for each to show its stuff. Francois Verhaert Larry Grace Royal Frosting Ruby Spider...See Morerethinking afternoonsun front of porch plant
Comments (12)Hmmm, so your house faces north-east? Is that right? I'm terrible with directions. First- to answer your question about the pavers, I was thinking about either bricks or those 5x8 pavers they use to build driveways- the ones made of concrete that are supposed to look like cobblestones- they come in taupe, gray, etc. You could get them to match the sidewalk or to match your roof tile. Walkways should be at least four feet wide for comfort (and eventually walkers or wheelchairs), but builders save money by making them two or three feet wide sometimes. I can't tell how wide yours is from the photos, but if it is narrow, you can enhance the look by lining it with pavers placed perpendicular to the walk. You could also line your porch with them to give it a bit more depth. That's pretty shady for six months of the year, apparently. If it was my house, I would extend the porch out about three feet in a semi-circle between the posts, and plant roses in front of the semi-circle. I'd put a little iron cafe' table and two chairs there. But agapanthus would look nice too. It's such a pretty house- I can't wait to see your climbing roses in bloom! Renee...See MoreShade and sun, where to plant native berries
Comments (20)I, too, am a planted native of Western WA. Throughout my childhood and youth, I foraged for berries all over Western WA. Now, in my own garden, although the majority of my plants are non-native, I have a lot of native plants interspersed here and there, that have volunteered and that I have nurtured, including both red and evergreen huckleberry and oregon grape, trilliums, etc. I have had all the berry plants growing in everything from complete shade to lots of sun. From my berry picking days, to my own plants, I can tell you that, even though they will grow in the shaded understory of the forest, the plants that produce the most berries, by far, are the ones that get more sun, and the more the better. This holds true for the flowering currents. As a berry picker, you always try to find a good thicket at the edge of the woods, with an eastern exposure. They really like several hours of morning sun. Sun exposure between 2 and 4 pm can kill young plants, but once established they can take that as well, if watered properly. I have a volunteer evergreen huckleberry growing out of a log in my back yard, in full sun, that is happy as can be. It gets enough water, because it's near a hardy fuchsia. A caution on fireweed (if that is what it really is). I have lived in Alaska, also, where it could almost be the state flower. It is a root runner and can be quite invasive, especially here in WA, where it doesn't get the winter cold to keep it in check. Salal, also a native, is also a root runner, but it is very hard to get established, if not growing there naturally. I have known people, whose yards are backed by a large forested area, that absolutely hate it. Regarding soil....all our native plants do like a highly organic, slightly acid soil. I have extremely light, sandy soil, which dries out very fast in the summer. My success with the natives has come from giving them a good, deep mulch of medium shredded bark, with fines in it. In the years I don't mulch I can really tell they are not happy. Good luck!...See Moredbarron
3 years agoMarie Tulin
3 years agodbarron
3 years agodeanna in ME Barely zone 6a, more like 5b
3 years agomxk3 z5b_MI
3 years agodjacob Z6a SE WI
3 years agoperennialfan275
3 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5