Replacing new basic builder kitchen with third-party option post-close
Hello!
We are building a house thru a semi-custom builder in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. The house is being constructed and overall we love it, however we aren't too keen on the builder's kitchen options for cabinetry, countertops, or flooring.
We priced out various upgrades to get the kitchen as-close-as-possible to what we truly want (however it's still not remotely close to our 'vision'), and the price for all those upgrades through the builder ends up being $40k+ (options priced were cabinet uppers, a couple floating shelves, quartz countertops and matching backsplash, waterfall island, and adding pots/pans drawers in a couple places in lieu of pots/pans drawers). This made our jaws drop because it seems overpriced for what you get, and we don't think it would be "worth it" to spend such a large amount of money on something we don't even truly like at the end of the day.
I am considering sticking with the builder's very basic (included/"free") options and swapping out cabinetry, countertop, and flooring after closing. I would want to keep the appliances, as I'm happy with what's offered through the builder (stainless steel kitchenaid cooktop, microwave, oven, range hood [not pictured] and subzero fridge), which I hope will help to contain costs. Also, if possible, I plan to re-use the builder's cabinetry elsewhere to minimize waste (i.e. the garage or laundry room).
What the builder offers:
The "basic" look offered by our builder looks similar to what's shown in the picture below, however with:
- Oak or Knotty Alder standard Shaker cabinets
- Spotty granite countertops
- Standard flooring is tile
- I don't recall if backsplash was required in order to close, but I don't plan to get any if I don't have to.
- The cabinet builder has pretty abyssal reviews, so I hesitate to upgrade through a builder if it results in such poor quality cabinetry.
What we're looking for:
Modern cabinetry (slab style?) that also incorporates the wood look without looking like it's from the 80s. Waterfall island (open to granite and quartz, but no spotty granite). Cabinet uppers with windows. Light colored wood flooring. Would not be changing layout, plumbing, or electrical at all.
Has anyone does something similar, and if so, what is a reasonable price range to expect? Prices seem to be so all over the place that I'm having trouble figuring out if this is something we'll be able to accomplish or if this is just a pipe dream.
Additionally, when doing something like this, I assume that flooring has to be done at the same time as the cabinetry/countertops--does anyone know if that is not the case?
We plan to be living here forever (if not forever, at least for the foreseeable next few decades). The kitchen is one place where we don't want to "settle", hence our reluctance to go with the builders offerings.
Other relevant info:
Location: Dallas-Fort Worth area
We absolutely have to have the builder install the basics, otherwise they won't let us close on the house. We can't use our own company for the kitchen. So the only option is to gut the builder kitchen.
Comments (8)
Raheel
3 years agoRelated Discussions
New House Options from Builder
Comments (13)I also asked my builder if I could purchase carpeting from someone else (they said "no"), and here's the way they explained it to me. When a developer plans a neighborhood of 500 new homes, for example, they put out for bids to subcontractors for each stage such as roofing, siding, flooring, etc. The bids are based on the number of homes to be completed, and the winning bidder is guaranteed work on that many homes. The sub then proceeds to hire and schedule their man-hours based on that. If homebuyers opt to put in their own flooring, then the sub has to be paid X amount for that house anyway, so it doesn't make sense for the developer to allow it. Remember, it's not just the dollars that have to be paid the sub (the developer could just allow you the difference), it's the hours of work that the sub's employees lose. A contract on a big sub-division can guarantee steady work for the employees. Letting buyers do their own subcontracting on non-custom builds cuts into that work. The winning bidder's contract in my case was written to forbid the practice of letting homeowners do their own work or choose their own subs. Some developers will allow it, but mine wouldn't....See MoreNew Builder, New Plan: Seeking Advice?
Comments (25)@D.L. Thanks for the advice. I did add windows to the left side of the house. I will do what can be done to stagger them from the neighbor's windows. I will use obfuscating glass for the bathrooms, but clear glass for Bedroom B. I had thought about clerestory windows, skylights and solar tubes for adding light but did not incorporate any of those ideas. Now that you bring it up I will look at where I can add clerestory windows. However, I have concerns regarding leakage from and cleaning of skylights. And I have heard that solar tube lighting can be harsh?? I am still thinking about how best to address the kitchen storage issue. I will look into your suggestions and play around with moving walls and the refrigerator. Maybe I am focused on the wrong thing but I am used to seeing kitchens with upper cabinets. I think it would look odd to have a kitchen that size with 9' ceilings and no upper cabinets. Once I have the rooms in the right place and about the right size I will post in the room specific forums to nail down the details. I was going to go a different route with the drop zone and buy or build 4 cabinets that would line up perpendicular to the garage door wall. That would provide a little separation/definition of the Cafe and Sun room areas. I would like to have a formal entrance but I don't think there is enough space if the doors are centered. That is why I pushed it to a corner. Later we could add a half wall and a column or two [or whatever] to create a small vestibule, if we felt like we just had to have a formal entrance. With respect to centering the dining room doors, I was trying to achieve what @yellowducky is proposing without having to add more hall space. By having the doors offset to the right and the table pushed left I was hoping to create an implied aisle way. Obviously, I need to rethink it. Finally, I agree with you. If I had unlimited amounts of money to spend I would hire an architect, and a Girl Friday, and a Body Guard, and a Personal Trainer, etc. :) @lori_inthenw_gw Point taken. @yellowducky I totally agree with you about the stairs. I originally had them orientated that way but I was concerned about the head room at the top of the stairs due to the slope of the roof. Also having them orientated the way you suggest requires a hallway running from the end of the top of the stairs back to the Master Bedroom wall. I will do the calculations to see if there is enough headroom. I will also work on the other items you point out. My square footage goal is more than 3000 but less than 4100, excluding garage. Maximum of 3000 on the first level....See MoreRipping out brand new, never used, builder grade kitchen... Crazy?
Comments (35)If you just need a "working" kitchen to get the CO, then why not just get a sink and cabinet from H4H and have it set in place and working? I think that is not uncommon in kitchen renos anyway where there are going to be delays. Plug in a refrigerator. Set up a surface, cabinet or whatever, and put an induction hot plate in place. And a Breville oven maybe. That's a functional kitchen. CO's don't differentiate between beautiful and ugly, just safe and functional. Have all outlets, etc up to code and finished. Vent hood in place if you can be pretty certain of location. If you aren't sure of the location, you will need to get a permit (later, when you real cabinets are installed) because you'll be going through walls/roof and wiring (although maybe the wiring can be done now if you know the general location, so you wouldn't need a later permit). I'm thinking you actually have an almost ideal situation now. A big empty room with all wiring, plumbing and finish work done, just waiting for the cabinets you love to be installed....See MoreNew here, first post, Kitchen layout help!!
Comments (33)Jordan, your plans look great. I'm the one who suggested having a clean-up sink and DW on the island, but since you've expanded to put the fridge at the end of the run on the top wall, I think you should reconsider buehl's plan with the clean-up sink on the short wall, and the prep sink on the island. Keep the pantry on the end, and put drawers for dish storage on the side of the island facing the short wall/DW, which completely separates the zones. True, it puts the dishes and DW farther from the DR, but keeps the dish mess m/l hidden on the perimeter, on the other side of the pantry. I think your wife will enjoy prepping on the island, facing the action in the LR, but she can always prep in front of the window, too. There is enough space in the secondary prep area, that a helper can be loading or unloading the DW at the same time. With dishes on the island, and above the DW, a helper can gather pieces to set the table, without venturing into the prep and cooking zonesAlso, I think you need a few more inches on the LR side of the overhang to make it 15" deep. ....See Moremvcanada
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