Cool Season Lawn Fertilization Question
gle2011
3 years ago
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gle2011
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Best way to overseed healthy cool season turf
Comments (4)As to your original question: Many have had satisfying results from overseeding in the Fall. Success primarily depends on sunlight reaching the seed and proper irrigation for the 3-4 weeks that it takes for KBG to germinate. As would be expected, seed will take best in bare and thinner areas of the lawn. (keep in mind the need to match growth rates, color, and blade width between the new seed and the existing turf). I, personally have had very good results from overseeding. So, in my opinion overseeding works and is worth it, but results will vary. What puzzles me about your sittuation is what condition your condition is? It sounds like your major issue is loss due to disease. People particularly in the East are reporting increased brown patch issues this year with their TTTF lawns. To avoid brown patch damage you need to be proactive with preventative fungacides and reactive with curative fungacides. Brown patch usually (but not always) does permanent damage to the turf and as I said, TF doesn't possess the ability to spread and fill in in the Fall. So I'm a bit puzzled by what you are reporting. Anyway, the best thing to do about reoccuring disease problems is a preventative and currative fungicide regiment. Weak grass is more susceptable to disease, so you should see if there are any weak links. Get a soil test and see if you are low on any nutrients. The greatest improvement in turf will come from proper mowing, irrigation and fertilization.Make sure your turf is getting proper irrigation. Too much irrigation can be worse than too little, Do a screw-driver test to see if moisture is penetrating (poor water penetration (hydrophobia) can often be repaired by shampooing) If your soil is not holding moisture--add organic matter. What types of fertilizer are you using and what schedule? How often are you mowing and what height?...See MoreNo summer fertilizing cool-season grasses. Ok. But when seeding?
Comments (5)"But what about after seeding? You have to administer starter fertilizer." You don't have to add starter at the time of seeding. Seeds will germinate all by themselves without starter. Actually it makes more sense to add it after the first mowing, when growth really starts to happen and it has long enough roots to actually use all those nutrients. I usually do a half app with the seeds, another half app after the second mowing. "I'm planning to seed in a week or two. But by the rule of thumb, won't the high concentration starter fertilizer compromise the existing grass if the temperatures are warm enough at the time it's applied?" If you are overseeding, it's probably better to wait till you mow for the first time. The starter will increase topgrowth and with all the watering you will be doing fungal disease will be an issue, and it will also crowd out the new grass to an extent. "I should add that my low concentration recovery feeding was just two weeks ago, during a cooler-than-normal span of a few days. " Doesn't matter, the fertilizer in summer forces topgrowth, which depletes nutrient stores, and increases the need for more water. For CT you want to shoot for around Labor Day, but that's just a way to remember it. When the weather turns dryer, and the nights cooler (low sixties, high fifties) is a good time for the first synthetic fall feeding....See Morerenovate weedy warm-season lawn with cool-season grass?
Comments (4)Here's what I would do. First soil tests, now. This will give you time to add nutrients and adjust pH so when the fall comes around your soil will be in great shape to grow grass. When spring comes treat your lawn like you are going to keep whatever you have, adding water, fertilizer, etc. Kill weeds with Weed B Gone or similar product, once in spring, and once in early summer. This will ensure that most of the weed seeds in your soil germinate, and you will kill the weeds early enough so they won't produce more seeds. At this time you should be doing your homework on what grass you are going to plant. I am assuming you will go with TTTF, but whatever you decide, do research on the best cultivar for your area. Study the NTEP trial results, talk to your local extension office, maybe a local university with a turf grass program. Once you decide what you are going to use, find a reputable seeds seller that sells weed free grass seed. Now, it's late summer, I say forget using plastic to kill the grass. It takes a long time, and it produces favorable conditions for fungal growth, stick with Round-up, it works great, it's fast, it's safe, and cheap. You might have to do it twice. Now, once your lawn is dead, and you scalped it there are a few ways to go. Some people like to do nothing, just power rake and plant on top of that. Others like to core aerate, some like to till. Some say don't till, it disturbs the soil too much and will settle unevenly. I think you have to decide what would be best for you. From what I hear NC soil is usually mostly clay and gets fairly compacted. If this is your case I would probably core aerate, break up the cores, and then cover with a good layer of screened topsoil/compost. Then I would roll, seed, roll again, top dress, apply starter fertilzer, and keep moist for the appropriate period of time (there are watering schedules online, probably somewhere on this forum). Also where you live, labor day might be too early to seed. Ideally you want warm days and cooler, less humid nights, especially when you have seedlings. Nights below 60 degrees are important because most harmful fungi don't thrive in this environment. When this weather situation occurs for you is probably variable, but again, do some research. Hope this helps....See MoreOverseeding vs fertilizing for fall season in Long Island.
Comments (11)Ok. So I went to the sod farm to pick up some fertilizer and seed for overseeding. I explained to that man that I was overseeding and feeding the existing lawn as well for the september feeding at the same time and asked for 28-8-16. This is what the guy gave me instead. I want to run it by you all just so I know I am putting enough down. It doesn't seem like enough to me. I had already purchased these items, so if there is anything that doesn't look right, please tell me what I should add to it because I will be doing this in the next couple of days. Thanks. 21,750sqft of existing lawn 100lbs of start fertlizer(18-24-12) 25lbs of seed for the 4,701sqft of mostly sunny area 50lbs of seed for the remaining 17,049sqft of mostly shady area Below is the starter fertilizer. Below is the 25lbs of seed for the 4,701sqft of mostly sunny areas. Below is the 50lbs of seed for the remaining 17,049sqft of mostly shady area....See MoreUser
3 years agoport2015
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agogle2011
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