If anything it's probably too much sun. If it has been indoors for a long time it can take a while to get used to sun again. I cant give too much advice on washingtonias because I have tried to grow them in pots and failed. It would put out maybe 2 fronds a year and then go half dead indoors and repeat the process all over again. -Alex

If the plant can withstand a strong stream of water, it can actually crush or kill these soft bodied insects. At the very least, it will dislodge them and make them more vulnerable to predation. But nothing, not even insecticides, will keep them way permanently. Insecticides that are effective against aphids are usually contact insecticides.......they will kill by smothering but the insects must be present and come in contact with the product. Anything you use - water or something stronger - will need to be repeated as necessary :-) Spider mites like conditions to be hot and dry. Spraying the plants down periodically will create a more humid environment that the mites dislike and they will stay away.

You're very welcome Ghazal :) Its great that you've noticed it does better with more light, always trust your instinct as the generic advice online is hard to apply to so many different scenarios. Calatheas don't do well in direct sunlight as it can scorch the leaves, but in a north-west facing window it will largely receive indirect light and a small amount of weak sunlight when the sun is setting, so putting it next to the window should be great for it. As a tip for working out what is "bright, indirect light" try and find a place where your hand casts a fairly strong shadow, or where you can easily read a book without needing a light on. Direct sunlight is when the rays hit the plant. In terms of increasing humidity, theres a few things. You can add a little water to the pebble tray but do not let it reach the bottom of the pot as you don't want the roots to be sitting in water. As the water evaporates, it creates humidity. Buying a humidifer is another option if you want to, although probably not necessary until winter. Or placing it in or near the bathroom or kitchen where it will get some steam if that's an option. Grouping plants together if you have others always helps to increase humidity. Hope that helps! Also, in case you aren't aware - Calatheas are fussy about the minerals in tap water if you have hard water in your area. It's best to use distilled or rain water where possible, although I can't see any evidence of your plant not being happy with the water. Hope you notice an improvement soon and do post an update if you remember, I'd love to see how you get on!

Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. An amateur job should follow the same path. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days for a Pro to accomplish completely and cost between 8--10K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets. Remove doors and drawer fronts. Remove hinges and hardware. Clean with degreaser. Rinse and let dry. Scrape any loose finish. Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused. Sand fill smooth. Scuff sand the rest. Tack off dust. Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points to spray both sides. Or lay on a spinner, and do one side at a time. Tack off dust again. Spray with shellac based primer. Scuff sand again. Tack off dust. Spray with second coat of primer. Spray with first finish coat of a polyurethane enamel (DIY) Or conversion varnish, (Pro product) . NOT house paint. Never house paint. Spray with second coat. If glazing is to occur, that is next. Spray with clear over glaze that is compatible with base coat and glaze. Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth. Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job. Most interiors are laminate and don't accept paint well. Allow everything to fully cure. That's 7-14 days. Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware. Install new (or old) hinges and hardware. Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances. If you are receiving or doing a job without this amount of effort, then you are not getting a quality job. You are getting a poor quality job that will not last. Anyone who paints cabinets with the doors on is an amateur and a Philistine, and should be fired immediately. If they paint the hardware too, go straight to shooting them also, and saving the world from such criminal ineptness.