Instead of running the narrower subway all the way to the floor, have you considered a wider ("taller") tile for the first course, to simply act as a baseboard or transitional piece from floor-to-field? Doesn't have to be an actual baseboard type of tile, or even a contrasting tile. The tile can be the same color as the subway should you prefer it to blend. It can be a simply 6" or 8" square field tile from the same manufacturer. As you know, blending colors may help with hiding a discrepancy, contrasting colors can accentuate it. On the flip side, you could separate the base from the field with a liner or some other detail that melds with details you have higher on the wall, at the chair rail for instance. Again, if the liner contrasts, it may accentuate. A basic 6" square tile, or to keep the subway shape, a 6" tall rectangle, would absorb the floor slope better than a "shorter" tile like your current subways. A 6" tile going from 5" to 6" would hide the discrepancy better than a small subway field tile going from 2" to 3". An 8" tile from 7" to 8" might be even better. If you were to use a true base cove tile like a sanitary cove base, use a basic sanitary instead of a shouldered sanitary, as the shoulder will be cut off due to the slope and that could create lippage or padding out issues as you go down the wall. Sometimes I've even used a taller painted wood baseboard to transition from a sloped floor to the field tile on the wall. An 8" tall wood baseboard scribed from say, 7" to 8" to hide the floor slope, with cap and base detailing, would pretty much hide any height discrepancy from the slope/scribing. The easiest and least expensive "all tile" solution would probably be a basic 6" square tile, scribed and cut from 6" to 5" as needed.

This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

If you try to remove the aluminum edging, the existing problem will look trivial compared to the damage you will do. As I said before, if you want this to come out ok you'll get some professional help. You don't know what you don't know, and there are a couple of ways to screw this up if you've never done it before.

chriskim,,,was going to say exactly that. take out that window and raise the shower head. Tile all the way up. you could also put in a handheld w/a sliding option. I did one in mine. (ignore the bullnose marks on this pic) The shower head I got didn't come w/a long arm. I had to get a different brand and went w/the 12" extension. the head also tilts. handheld can slide up or down. I got one valve that controls BOTH (make sure you look into that) and can have both on simultaneously on this one we gave them a larger window. you might think about this for yours wish I had a better pic of this one to show you the window. This shower was enlarged, which is why the window is now off center. it's also a slider. make sure the tile person waterproofs it well. you can tile all around the window.