This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Per Code: Greenboard (water resistant gypboard) may not be installed over a vapor barrier. Ref: IRC 702.4.3 & UPC 2512 GB okay for direct adhesion of wall tile, except in shower enclosure. GB may not be put on the ceiling if the framing is greater than 12" OC All cut or exposed edges MUST BE sealed with a water resistant sealant. Cement Board required in the shower enclosure until you reach an elevation equal to or greater than 72" above the finished drain opening. Cement board MUST BE installed over a building paper or other approved membrane. Some jurisdiction will permit GB in the shower enclosure with a KERDI membrane finish. (Requires expressed written consent of local inspector.)

Thank you creative tile. Yes, these feature tiles are at the end of the bath in the main shower area. I don't believe he put anything behind the tiles. I'm sure he just stuck them to the plasterboard as he did with all the others. He did treat the tiles with Lithofin as these are stone but then I believe he just grouted them. He's been this morning and can't see where the leak under the bath is coming from (please see picture) and he's added some more sylicon around the taps but I wonder if this has anything to do with the tiles too if you say he should have put something behind them but the plasterboard was bone dry so hopefully it isn't. What a nightmare. Thank you for the advice. We'll have to see what the boss says tomorrow but I'd like to give them the opportunity to rectify it first and I'm so glad I posted this else I'd have been scrubbing at the tiles for weeks but now I know I need to get them back in Thank you again for all your help.

It is an ambitious timeframe. Redgard is pretty specific about the surfaces it can go on and has specific instructions for priming gypsum drywall before you apply it. Don't RUSH this waterproofing step - prime it correctly to get the right bond, and then make sure you build up the right thickness of film. http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/surface-preparation/waterproofing-membranes-underlayments/redgard.aspx How big is the gap from the tub to the drywall? You can build the tile thinset up to cheat the wall a little bit, it depends on how far off we are talking. But one of the problems people experience with 'large format tiles' that you are using is lippage, which you're risking having with an uneven wall surface. It might be better to correct the wall itself instead.