A lot depends on how you use your fridge. Our old one was 33" wide by 33" deep (not including the handle) with bottom mount freezer. Our new fridge (now 3 1/2 years old) is an Electrolux sxs cd 36" wide. We are a family of 4 (includes 2 teens). I kept our old fridge for extras but found after a month I didn't like running an empty fridge so we got rid of it. We only had the Electrolux until last April when we got a smallish upright freezer so that we could stock up when we went to grocery stores almost an hour away. I really find no difference spacewise between the old and new. The back portion of our old fridge tended to be filled with old stuff that really should have been thrown out. Now I just clean it out more often and stuff tends to get less lost with the shallower shelves. Our stuff seems better organized on the multiple narrow shelves. The space in the Electrolux (and I imagine all the cd's) is well configured. Space is tight after a big grocery shopping or when there are a lot of left overs (or stuff being prepped for a big dinner) but it was the same with the old fridge. In both cases (new AND old) I made do (using the outdoors for several hours during cold months, etc.) I really like our sxs but my ideal set up would be a 36" cd mostly fridge (with a very small freezer compartment and in-the-door crushed ice dispenser) and the upright freezer in a nearby room. But until they make such a fridge I'm happy with sxs. This is the first time we had an ice dispenser and my family uses it all the time. Dh went from rarely drinking water to drinking it all the time and we all drink it a lot more water than we did.

Always order a deeper end panel than you think you need...it's easy to cut them down but you can't make them deeper w/o patching. If you think you will need 29-1/2", I would probably order 33" deep panels. For one, it gives you more than 1/2" wiggle room. For another, it's probably easier to cut off 3-1/2" than 1/2"...so less possibility for things to go wrong. Both ends don't have to be finished, only the outside one. The end that butts up against the wall can be unfinished. With the proper tools, your GC should be able to cut a clean, straight line so there's no waviness to the cut. If there is, you might be able to install quarter round along the outside gap; but, there shouldn't be one... (BTW...I suspect a 30" or 33" panel would be less expensive than a 29-1/2" since 30 & 33 are pretty standard sizes.) As to filler b/w the top of the refrigerator & upper cabinet...that depends. If you build an alcove to just fit your refrigerator, then make the upper cabinet fit in that alcove...i.e., get a taller cabinet for above the refrigerator. Otherwise, yes, you will need filler b/w them. You will probably want 3/4" thick filler for that location. Note: I would not build an alcove less than 36"Wx72"H b/c it's getting more difficult over time to get one smaller than this and years from now it will probably be even more difficult! I'm assuming you're getting a full-depth upper cabinet - they're the most useful. But if not, then go ahead and pull it forward so it looks full-depth. If this is new construction, are the wall already up? Is this a load-bearing wall? Regardless, you would frame it out just like any doorway in a load-bearing wall. You will just put drywall on the other side of the opening (hall side). Even 3" can make a difference in kitchen functionality, so if you can do it, do it! Sorry, no I don't have pictures. My refrigerator is on an exterior wall so we couldn't do it...which meant I had to get a counter-depth refrigerator. I would start a new thread asking how to do it.

Even if you were to purchase an integrated-built in Sub Zero you would need at least a 26" cabinet depth. Depth is the single most important refrigerator measurement. It's amazing that a site like AJ Madison doesn't include depth for every single fridge. Also, when checking depth, it's best to look at the specification sheet. Manufacturers measure in different ways. But you want to know the depth from the back of the fridge (watch for clearance/placements needed for air circulation, water lines & outlets) to the front of the finished door -- but not the handle. If panels are involved I'd go over the specs very carefully to be sure the thickness of the panel is included in the measurement if there is concern with anything fitting flush. Handles have different depths (projections) themselves but aren't considered in depth measurement. Depth is key because most fridge doors need some type of clearance in order to open. So usually it's necessary to install with the thickness of the door (and sometimes part of the gasket or side) showing. Ask about the finishes on each side of the fridge as well if the door thickness will sit proud of the adjacent cabinets. A zero clearance fridge, like Liebherr, can be made to look fully built in however.

Thanks everyone! I like the idea of the side unit if we can't replicate it in the middle of the cabinets as suggested but I love the look of the inspiration picture. have been able to find some beverage centers that are shallow depth. One that would work is from Perlick that is an 18 inch depth built-in BUT they are $. The one I saw was quoted at $2,800 which is not in my budget for a place to store the kids drinks ;) Houzz has sent me an idea based on my search history I assume but, I'm unsure if it can be enclosed vs freestanding only. This is the Houzz recommended unit...