Ok, so I'm checking out other options for refrigerators and I pull up a Frigidaire 26 cu foot full depth frig and the manual actually tells you how to make it look 'built in'! I feel like it was written by Beuhl!! Check it out! :)

Here is a link that might be useful: How to build in this Frigidaire

Yes, you need an end panel at least 32-1/2" deep. Did your KD know which refrigerator you were planning, or at least that you were planning a full/standard-depth? Regardless, s/he should have ordered at least a 30" panel, preferably 36" b/c you are planning a full/standard-depth refrigerator and not a CD. (My KD ordered 30" panels for my CD refrigerator.) The end panels are easy to cut down.

Have you talked to your KD about this yet? If your KD had all the information, s/he should have known what to order. (Even if s/he just knew it was going to be standard depth, s/he should have known better than to order a 28" panel!)

Why am I "finger pointing"? Because if your KD knew that you were getting a standard-depth refrigerator (especially if s/he knew the model), then this is his/her mistake and s/he should fix it the right way (i.e., option #1 below).

OK, if you stick with the Samsung refrigerator, you could do one of three things, in order of preference:

(1) Have your KD order the correct panel (at least 33", but I would go w/36" just to be "safe")

(2) Recess the refrigerator into the wall those "extra" 4-1/2" (this may require bumping into the room behind it as well since you usually only gain 3-3/4" to 4" or so from a wall). This will only work if it's an interior wall and there's nothing in the wall at that point that can't be moved.

(3) Assuming neither side will be fully exposed/in view: See if you can get a tall filler piece to fill in the extra 4-1/2" or so. Use that filler in the back so it's not so obvious. If needed, you might be able to "piece together" a filler for the sections above the countertop...just be sure to have all one piece exposed, the other sections could be several pieces, but the end panel & pieces will have to be attached to the upper cabinets on the sides and then the refrigerator panel is attached to the end panels/pieces.

If none of the above will work, then a shallower refrigerator is the only answer.

Interesting...that's the first time I've seen a manufacturer tell you how to build in a refrigerator! Maybe someone on the Documentation Team is a GWer!

As to the Frigidaire refrigerator...unfortunately, your 28" end panel will still be 1" to 1-1/2" too shallow. I know it says a 28-7/8" deep alcove, but notice the depth of the refrigerator is 28-1/2" and the required air clearance behind it is 1"...those two numbers add up to 29-1/2". Even going by Frigidaire's numbers, you are still about an inch too shallow.

Yes, it would be better than the Samsung, but I would see if I could get your KD to replace the end panels for you with correctly sized ones first...

Keep us posted!

Buehl -- To correct, I haven't ordered any cabinets from my KD yet, but that will happen next week. So I wanted to get this all figured out for my mtg on Saturday with him to hash out all the details. My KD didn't know which frig I was considering and was waiting for the specs on it to determine the full depth of the end panel.

That said, I guess I am leaning more toward the Frigidaire since it's a little more shallow. So if I go with the Frigidaire, you would get 29 1/2 inch end panel, or even 30?

And I would get those end panels on both sides (my frig is on the end of a cabinet run). And then a filler on the top b/t the frig and upper cabinet? Should he make the height of the opening 72" and I would have a 2 inch filler?

Also, this is new construction so my GC will be installing the cabinets. Would he cut the end panel down? THat doesn't seem like it would be easy to do and have a "finished" edge on it? Sorry I am so naive about this!

Also, to recess into the wall, there is hallway behind this frig so I would only gain the 3 or so inches from the current wall. And my GC doesn't understand how to recess into the back wall with the header and stuff? Do you have any pictures of this?

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Always order a deeper end panel than you think you need...it's easy to cut them down but you can't make them deeper w/o patching. If you think you will need 29-1/2", I would probably order 33" deep panels. For one, it gives you more than 1/2" wiggle room. For another, it's probably easier to cut off 3-1/2" than 1/2"...so less possibility for things to go wrong.

Both ends don't have to be finished, only the outside one. The end that butts up against the wall can be unfinished. With the proper tools, your GC should be able to cut a clean, straight line so there's no waviness to the cut. If there is, you might be able to install quarter round along the outside gap; but, there shouldn't be one...

(BTW...I suspect a 30" or 33" panel would be less expensive than a 29-1/2" since 30 & 33 are pretty standard sizes.)

As to filler b/w the top of the refrigerator & upper cabinet...that depends. If you build an alcove to just fit your refrigerator, then make the upper cabinet fit in that alcove...i.e., get a taller cabinet for above the refrigerator. Otherwise, yes, you will need filler b/w them. You will probably want 3/4" thick filler for that location. Note: I would not build an alcove less than 36"Wx72"H b/c it's getting more difficult over time to get one smaller than this and years from now it will probably be even more difficult!

I'm assuming you're getting a full-depth upper cabinet - they're the most useful. But if not, then go ahead and pull it forward so it looks full-depth.

If this is new construction, are the wall already up? Is this a load-bearing wall? Regardless, you would frame it out just like any doorway in a load-bearing wall. You will just put drywall on the other side of the opening (hall side). Even 3" can make a difference in kitchen functionality, so if you can do it, do it!

Sorry, no I don't have pictures. My refrigerator is on an exterior wall so we couldn't do it...which meant I had to get a counter-depth refrigerator. I would start a new thread asking how to do it.

Thank you, Beuhl, for your invaluable information!

... If I am able to recess my frig and get, say, 3 inches or so, then my GC will end up cutting down the end panel even more than 29 1/2 inches or so?

Everything else makes sense -- thanks so much!!

Probably, but unless you're 100% certain you can do it, don't order the panels with recessing in mind. To be certain, open up the wall now all the way to see what you have inside it. We thought we could remove our entire soffit when we remodeled but it turned out we could not...it actually caused several problems, one of which forced us to build out our wall 6" so we now have a 10'6" wide kitchen instead of 11'1".

We thought we had done our homework...we, along with our KD, had punched several holes in the soffit and using lights & mirrors thought we had seen the entire space...but we had not.

Moral of the story: Don't assume you can do something like that w/o a thorough check! So, remove that entire wall...left to right, top to bottom, b/f committing to the recess and having other things dependent on it.

Since it's new construction, the wall are open now! Just the 2x4's sitting there and my GC is aware that I want to use that part of the wall for recessing (so he will keep it clear). I'll check with him, though, once I get some better pictures of what he needs to do. Thanks again!