IMO, the cabinetry crown should be the same shade of white as the cabinets. On another thought, does the wall crown molding profile and size match the cabinetry molding profile and size? If not, I can see two options: 1. Stop the wall moulding short of the cabinet and allow for a few inches of wall space before the cabinetry crown hits in the wall (which means the two shades of white won't touch) or 2. Have a bear of a time trying to scribe the cabinetry molding to fit over the wall crown molding. If by chance they are the same profile and size I'd still match the molding to the cabinetry. I ask about the profiles because it is the issue that caused my hood to drop low enough for the cabinetry crown to hit the wall below my wall crown.

I could have written your post as this is exactly the question we have been asking ourselves! We also have 8' ceilings and will be getting Kraftmaid 36'' cabinets in a simple shaker style (Lyndale - same as yours but in cherry). We haven't ordered yet, but we're thinking of raising the cabinets by an inch or so to decrease the space above slightly and add an inch or so of light rail under the cabinets, so that the distance from the countertop to the light rail is 18''. That would leave us with about 5'' above the cabinets. We think we'll get the large cove molding and have about 2 1/2'' of plain filler in between. I believe there's something called large starter molding that looks like filler but has a horizontal piece attached at the bottom to form an L-shape. I'm thinkin g that this would enable us to have the filler piece come forward a little from the cabinet front. Does that make sense? Please keep us posted in case you find a better solution! HTH!

That looks like a very common Kelleher molding. I would suggest taking the sample to an actual lumber yard or molding provider. I don't usually include Lowes or HD in that category. You can call and ask them if they sell Kelleher molding. You can also download Kelleher's catalog. Worse comes to worse, you can get it custom made. My favorite local molding house is SF Victoriana. They are willing to match older moldings, but I doubt you will need to do that. Here is a link that might be useful: SF Victoriana

If you don't match the profiles of the moldings, you will be left with a plinth block separating the two different profiles. Some people find that less than desirable. Some people are OK with it. Here are two molding transitions that you do NOT want. The "woops, what now". The "we don't know what a plinth block is". I personally find that the best solution is to have the same top profile for the crown, and just change colors between walls and cabinets. Even if you have stacked molding on the cabinets, it works, because the profiles are the same. That's what we did here. We used a stacked crown for the cabinets, but the same top profile for cabinets and crown, just changing color where appropriate.