Do you like a cold bedroom?
sal 60 Hanzlik
3 years ago
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Lukki Irish
3 years agoRelated Discussions
cold bathroom/bedroom above cold garage
Comments (9)If I could just comment her and maybe get some feedback on this topic. I have a somewhat related issue. I hade my master bath toilet and the cold water feed for the washer in the adjacent laundry room freeze up twice last year. The master bathroom bumps out 18" from the rest of the house. These pipes run up the outside wall and thru the subfloor of that 18" bumpout section. FOr whatever stupid reason, the builder's design didn't put the piping on an interior wall. The attempted fixes last year included adding more insulation inside the soffit of that bumpout, and then adding an second wall vent in the laundry room behind the washer so that warm air could circulate behind the wall, and that was supplemented by encasing the pipes behind there with insluated foam board of some kind. Anyway,the same pipes froze again last night. BY the time my wife got the builder's site foreman over to the house, the pipes thawed out. Toilet bowl filled back up and the cold water runs again on the washer. How that happened overnight is beyond me. It had to be in the teens during the overnight, if not colder. Well, he first tried to blame the frozen pipe situation on the fact that he says we leave our garage door open for great periods of time. ThatÂs crap, IM! How can that seriously be a contributing factor to the pipes in question?? My master bedroom is fully above the garage space (it's not abnormally cold and the proper insulation is in the garage ceiling, according to code), and adjacent is the master bath, and adjacent is the laundry room. The feed pipes for the toilet and washer are located about 14 feet to the side of the garage area on the backside of the house and in the area of the first floor ceiling/second floor subflooring. And he's claiming that cold air from the garage is causing or contributing to these pipes freezing? It's not like we leave the garage open for extended periods of time in freezing weather, and we certainly don't leave it open overnight! The master shower and jacuzzi tub don't freeze up, and they are phjysically closer to the garage than the toilet. GIVE ME A BREAK!!! In addition to that, IÂd also point out the fact that the toilet area of the master bath is directly above the first floor pantry, which is extremely warm, with a floor vent in there and the pantry door closed most all the time. All that warm air in the ceiling of the pantry. What a real jerk this guy is, trying to peddle this lame excuse as the contributing factor to the pipes freezing!! Two different plumbing contractors that have worked for the home builder in the past year, they both said the piping didn't belong on the outside wall. But the foreman says they aren't going to tear up the tile flooring and walls to move the pipes. They want the issue to be shored up via insulating methods. Any comments? The garage excuseby the foreman is bull$hit, right?...See MoreReducing the cold in bedroom above a crawl space.
Comments (8)Thanks to everyone for some helpful feedback. Again, there does not appear to be a concise consensus. The original baseboard was along the back wall and not near the window wall. I had it moved since that heat would essentially be behind the headboard, end tables and bookcase. Leaving that wall free of obstacles would not have made good use of the room. I also did not want that heat rising right into our heads when we slept. I had the plumber move the radiator to under the window. This unit is not as long but is a higher output baseboard unit. AS it is shorter, it may have less overall heat output than what it replaced, but I also felt that placing it under the three windows would be more helpful. I would have preferred a cast iron radiator, but the wall of windows is bowed and the window sills are pretty low to the floor. A cast iron unit would not have fit. Not only would it sit too tall, but the wall under the window was not deep enough to sink a unit into. I don't want to open the crawl space to the rest of the basement because that would mean additional heating costs- since the basement is used for more than storage. Over the last several days, the crawl space has almost uniformly been 15 degrees cooler than the master bedroom above it- even with the very variable outdoor temperatures as of late. The crawl space was about 15 degrees warmer than the temperature outside, but I honestly did not track that often enough to see how variable this temperature change was- only noticing this on the milder days of late. When I am advised to insulate the exterior wall, "I would add 2" Polyisocyanurate board on the out side wall below grade and down to frost depth" does this mean on the exterior of the house or on the inside of that exterior wall? The exterior wall is mostly butted against a poured cement driveway, although the rear portion and back wall are surrounded by lawn. I appreciate the range of feedback here. There are obviously several ways to increase heating efficiency and retention. Rob - Long Beach, NY...See Morebedroom is ice cold
Comments (8)Be carefull insulating around recessed lights if older models...could be a fire hazard....especially with that foam. If you already did, I'd switch to those CFL bulbs, they do not get as hot and the price has come down. They do take up to 2 minutes to get to fll brightness though. Isee they now have dimmable ones too. We have a similar situation in our home. Our bedroom sits partially over a finished garage which appears to be insulated between our bedroom floor and garage ceiling. I can peak between the drywall where garge door hardware is installed and see fiberglass pink stuff anyway. The far bedroom wall is adjacent to attic space above part of the garage which I have access to from in the garage ceiling. I store some XMAS junk up there and I can see the foam foil backed insulation that abuts our bedroom. How much (R value), I am unsure. The house is 20 years old though....not sure what the standards were back then. Our bedrrom is typically 2 degrees cooler or warmer depending on the season. The bedroom is about 12 X 24 and includes a small bath and walk in closet at one end. 2 vents and one return service the bedroom. An additonal vent is in the bath. The walk in is always very cold or very hot unless we leave the door open. I am not sure if it more efficient to leave the door open or closed. I guess more insulation can be put in the attic space over the foil faced foam...not sure. I see now way to add insluation between the two levels as the garage is drywalled...like I said, there is some amount of fibergalss in there. Does this sound like your situation? If so I have noticed the following after living here 2 years and using a 20 year old Trane heatpump (Hey some day we will upgade and maybe it will get better!) 1) I had access to the dampers to the first floor from my unifinshed basememt. I closed them down quite a bit to try to force more air upstairs when we first moved in. I think that helped a bit. 2) When the heat of summer arrives it really takes a couple of weeks (or so it seems) for the house to even out. At that point the temp in the bedrrom is always 2 degrees hotter. I hate the heat so we lower the stat to compensate. The other bedroom are a bit cooler. 3) Ditto in the winter. Here though we do not mind it a bit cooler. In fact, with our old oil heat we'd use a programable stat to knock the house temp to 60 or so around 9pm and have it at 67 when we awoke. It not efficient to do that with a heat pump so far as I know. Instead we try to leave the stat set on 68 which usually means our bedroom is anywhere from 66-68 depending on the conditions outside. When it gets real cold and the poor ole' trane goes into aux heat mode for most of the day we usually turn the stat down to 65 and use an oil fin heater in our bedroom to make up the differnce. Agian, the model we chose is programmable so its warm when we awake for minimal cost. We have another fin heater in my son's room that works the same way. For some reason my girl's room is always warmer or cooler and usually not an issue. So.....I'd see about getting your dampers adjusted. I'd give the season a few weeks and see if your home evens out. Finally, I'd pick up an oil fin heater. HD has the 25% off by me already. I got mine 50% last year....See MoreI do not like view of doorway/bedroom from living area.
Comments (9)flopsycat1- we are going with your suggestion of switching the guest room and study. The current study has a door to the outside patio so that will be nice for guests if they want to slip outside without walking through the house, It also has a nice view of backyard and wildlife. I just assumed my husband was stuck on having that as his study. The current guest room (soon to be study) is much larger, more closet space and sunnier and brighter. (reason I did not want to keep the door shut) We are going to put in a sofa corner unit or sofa and chair in the area that can be viewed from the main area of house and desk will go next to windows and he will have a view of our butterfly garden. So it basically will be another small living area/study combo and someone can sleep on the sofa in a pinch, if we have a full house, as we sometimes do. Thank you so much everyone for ideas, it really got me thinking about possibilities. Big thanks to you flopsycat1!!...See MoreUser
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