I love your choices, and second the idea of adding some black trim in the white. I think that it would be amazing. Are you thinking of crackle tile in the shower? If so, double-check if that is ok. I a have crackle finish backsplash in my kitchen and the manufacturer recommended sealing the tile to prevent any stains from food splashes seeping in through the cracks. That makes me think that it might not be a great option for a wet installation like a shower. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I am can chime in.

It sounds like you have what you need, and that you just need some practice. Any corded drill (or cordless) can handle this job. It sounds like you have standard, inexpensive bits which are usually high speed steel (HSS), and those are fine, too. You may want to get some better quality bits (like titanium coated) in the future. Unless your walls are actually concrete, you have no need of specialty tools, like a hammer drill or masonry bits. Impact drivers are wonderful specialty tools for driving fasteners into tough materials, but it would be the wrong tool to use on this project. (It would be nice to have a cordless drill-driver if you are driving screws, but you don't absolutely need that, and you need to master the use of a regular drill first.) Plaster drilling dulls bits faster than using them in wood, so you might want to have some extra bits on hand. And even though I have been using tools for over 50 years, I, too, occasionally break small diameter bits, so I keep cheap spares around. While I tend to buy high quality power tools, when it comes to disposables, like bits, I look for bargains since I do a lot of drilling; for your drilling needs, you might want to look at a place like Harbor Freight tools: Drill bits You can get decent bits there for cheap, including things like a set of half a dozen 1/16" or 3/32" or 1/8" bits for a couple of bucks. They have stores in many areas of the country and you can buy online. Too many homeowners have one set of bits that get dull early on and never get replaced, so I suggest you pick up some extras and toss them out when they quit performing well. Good luck, and tell me what happens when you try this again. Do you think it would help your skills development if you practice drilling into a scrap of wood first, just to get the hang of handling your new tool? I also assume that you have a standard variable speed drill, and it would be better to use it at a slower speed when going in to plaster. And did you confirm that the forward-reverse switch was in the correct position? :-)

I would move the stove much closer to one end. Symmetry is not needed in a layout like this but ease of movement is. Then I would shorten the island, position it so that it isn't blocking access to either the stove or the fridge, and put the microwave in the pantry next to the fridge. I am concerned that, if you have base drawers (highly recommend), you will only have ~10" clear when they are fully pulled out, which might require you to stand to the side when accessing. You mention that one end is open to the dining space; is the other end also open to a room? Will there be traffic through the kitchen? I am wondering if a peninsula at one end or the other would be more practical, since you seem to have the width to allow one. I really wouldn't like the narrow aisles on either side of the proposed island.

What a gorgeous home! A Craftsman Bungalow with 2 front facing gables and 1 side facing gable. I suggest this design for the fireplace. Holds to the style, yet works in the updated room. Research the two brothers, Charles Sumner Greene and Henry Mather Greene who designed the bungalow on the West coast in the early 1900’s. My guess is they are the original architects of this style and maybe designed your house. Who knows?