Best Electric Hot Water Heater For My Home
bryanthegrower
3 years ago
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Stax
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Replacing electric hot water heater - should I go hybrid?
Comments (37)Saltidog, Dude, chill. I was respectfully saying you had a different opinion - not what your opinion was or that it had anything to do with the heating elements. You can disagree without being disagreeable. I do understand thermodynamics very well, thank you. There is no "trend" and no misrepresentation. Yes, the units have resistive elements as backup, for high demand situations, and when the ambient temperature gets low enough that enough heat can't be extracted using the heat pump (for geospring unit that's 45 degrees F) Saltidog, I don't know what you are getting your panties in a bunch about... yes, I understand your heater works well for you. I would expect that. It's installed in a basement that's at least 700 cubic feet of space. Because it's underground it will maintain a temperature of around 50 - 55 degrees or more if there are other heat sources in the basement. That's enough to allow the heat pump to work just fine. The water heater will work in almost all situations / applications where one would normally install a tank heater. It will even run on the heat pump in most situations. The question is when you have the water heater in a fully conditioned space (not basement) and that space is being heated. At that time, one is shifting the heating load of the water heater to the furnace - which may or may not be more cost effective. I think the water heaters are great - esp if they can work out the reliability problems (which I think are teething pains, not inherent problems). I stick by my assertion that there are three applications whereby they produce the most system efficiency / cost effectiveness....See MoreElectric to Gas Hot Water Heater....
Comments (4)You are correct, when using the mathematical formula for determining whether the space is a confined or unconfined space we must first total the BTU's of all combustion devices in the space in question by example, a furnace will typically range from 50K to 200K BTU so for illustration let us assume 100K/BTU for the furnace plus 38K/BTU for the water heater for a combined total of 138K/BTU. In this case a confined space would be any room less than 138K/btu x 50Cu.ft/kBTU = 6900cu.ft. Again allowing an 8' ceiling we divide 6900/8 = 862.5sq.ft. This means any room with less than 862.5sq.ft would be considered a confined space. We could then use the square root of 862.5 to get an estimate of the required room size which would be 29.36' x 29.36'. From this illustration we can see that a typical unfinished full basement would meet the requirements of an unconfined space but if the furnace and water heater are then enclosed in a utility room within the basement that enclosure would probably be a confined space. The codes then offer numerous options for venting a confined space. If the total basement area would meet the dimension as an unconfined space we could then install vent grilles through the partitioning wall from the utility room to the remainder of the basement. Code would require two grilles, one within 12" of the ceiling and the second within 12" of the floor and each grille would be required to have 1sq.in. for each 1K BTU but not less than 100sq.in. In this example we would need grilles that provide 138sq.in. 11.7" x 11.7" therefore you could install two 12" x 12" grilles or you could install a louvered door between the utility room and the basement. Another option would be to install fresh air intake grilles through the outside wall. In this case you need 1sq.in for each 4K/BTU. 138K / 4 = 34.5sq.in. A 7" round duct has a cross sectional area of 38.48sq.in so one 7" round duct from the utility room to outside air would provide the necessary combustion air. There are a number of other options as well, such as venting combustion air from the attic space. While i offer these figures as an example it must also be understood that the actual code requirements can vary dramatically from one jurisdiction to another so you would need to check your local codes. If you are installing a power vent water heater most of them have a provision for directly ducting in the combustion air as well so you would not need to be concerned with the formulas for that type of water heater. I would also agree wholeheartedly with Pinoke. Some jurisdictions do not permit a homeowner to make any gas connections but if it is permitted in your jurisdiction a connection such as you propose would be a straight forward job and should not be beyond the ability of a skilled DIY'er. There are some code requirements that you must be aware of, but they are not at all difficult....See MoreElectric or Gas Hot water heater?
Comments (40)My Rinnai gas tankless water heater has a built in recirculation feature. My furthest bathroom is 50' from the tankless. The shower is hot within 8secs of turning it on. My recirculation pump is on a timer and is programmed based on my family behavior. I was really concerned after reading so many of the reviews online about tankless water heaters topics like temp sandwich and not being able to use multiple showers and appliances at the same time. I have low flow shower heads in my bathrooms from Grohe and Hansgrohe. Two of my bathrooms have thermostatic valves. The third has a very old pressure balance valve that will be replaced soon. The shower heads are rated at 2.5gpm. They perform really well. The tankless also has a feature to fill a bathtub,. I have used this once and the tankless worked like a champ and filled a 50gal tub in 9 mins. I have city water and will perform my first flush of the system in May. I was also afraid of the temperature drops as it got colder. We had a week of sub zero temps and I noticed no impact on the water heater. We can take two showers concurrently, run the dishwasher, washer and a faucet at the same time. My home has a crawl space and most of my plumbing runs through the crawl. The tankless unit is hanging on the wall in the utilities room. Just wanted to post another experience in tankless. One of the main drivers for going with tankless in my case was that I needed the space. The tank heater blocked access into the utility room and a wall needed to be taken down to remove the heater. I have a Rinnai RUR98i. Good luck!...See MoreHot water heater vented out the side of my house.
Comments (5)There should be no noticeable odor if the gas is burning properly. You would think so, but no. Back in the day there was a line of American Standard furnaces with electronic ignition in which they did a poor job of sealing the blower compartment... and so during start up of the furnace there would be a small amount of gas that would leak into the blower compartment making people inside think they have a gas leak. If the appliance has a lit standing pilot, only then should there be no gas smell....See Morejrb451
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agobryanthegrower
3 years agobryanthegrower
3 years agomike_home
3 years agobryanthegrower
3 years agoStax
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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