Those are the best looking garage doors that anyone has brought to the forum in quite some time. The house is nice looking, too. The forum is a place where you can get help with landscape design and related issues, but you must keep in mind that is has limitations. For one, if the conversation is too wide spread -- about all areas of a large yard, for example -- it can quickly become confusing. It's best to focus on one area for a given thread ... a front yard, for example. It's best to work through that and then move on to other areas with new threads. And giving "help" means giving you assistance. You will still have work to do in converting any advice you get, whether it be verbal or graphic, into a workable PLAN. Either you must do it, or you must hire a landscape designer or architect to do it. But you really can't do landscape work, at least in any well organized, logical manner, without a plan on paper. On a larger than average property, a plan would be especially necessary if you mean to avoid waste and mistakes. Given that your are probably going to reside at the property for many years and will surely want to create a property as nice as the home, I highly recommend that you hire a landscape designer to work out all of the issues that you'll face while planning a quality landscape ... especially if you're not able to visualize things easily. Meanwhile, you can work on sorting through your thoughts on the project and on a direction to take the design. I'd suggest you start with the front yard. In order to do that you'll need to supply better pictures. In taking them what's important is not just what's directly in front of the house, but in an area the surrounds the house about 20' - 30' out, including the ends. Also, when taking pictures for those who can't personally visit the site, it's best if the camera is lined up with the center of the scene. For a given scene the camera must stay in one location and only pivot for each picture. Snap from left to right while taking slightly overlapping pictures and post them all, not a panorama made from them. That's a starting point. Another picture that is usually important to show is one of the front of the house as one sees it from a distance, showing how it fits in with the neighborhood. since you probably have a very large front yard, you might show it from where you see the house upon entering the property. If that's too far away, maybe as you're seeing it from a hundred or more feet away. Hard to be too exact without knowing what you're working with. You might also include a view from Google Satellite if that will help explain the overall layout.

Much of the discussion here is based on semantics and what is referred to as "X" in Ohio could just as easily be referred to as "Y" in Tennessee even though it is the identical product. Local terminology is a reference point as there are no industry naming standards for natural stone. Cast concrete products will have proprietary names. @Omega is correct when he says to ask for material that is 8" deep (if it's available in your market). Here in northern Illinois that material comes from Wisconsin and any contractor I know and any quarry or distributor I know would refer to it as "cut drywall" or "snap-cut drywall". The lengths are random but the depth is nominally 8". It comes in thicknesses ranging from 2"-3" all the way up to 8". The next two photos are both "cut drywall". When I ordered the stone for these two projects I simply called the distributor and asked for " X tons of 2"-3" cut drywall". At that point I can be comfortable knowing that I will be getting product that is 2"-3" thick, 8" deep and in random lengths. Coverage on this product is roughly 18 face feet (square feet) per ton. @Omega is also correct in his first post, saying that you CAN build your short wall out of this material. It still requires compacted stone base like a taller wall. If you look at the top photo and visualize only two course of stone above grade that would be your finished height. From the bottom up you would have 6" of stone base, one course of wall below grade and two courses of wall above grade. When well-built these walls can last for 40-50 years, even longer without an ounce of mortar. That being said, base on your original photos the "wall" appears to border a driveway and cut drywall is probably not ideal for your situation. The recommendations of NHBabs and Gardengal48 are infinitely better for your situation based on the photos you posted. The pic posted by @Gardengal48 would be a much better selection for your application and requires far less skill to install than cut drywall. While not available in all markets Techo-Bloc makes a wide assortment of pre-cast bed edging. One of their products is named Belgik after natural Belgian block edging. See link below for assorted options. https://www.techo-bloc.com/en/product-category/edges/ @Gardengal48 is also correct when she says flagstone is not normally used for walls, but rather in flatwork. Below are two photos of what we locally call flagstone. The first is a an oversized pathway of flagstone set on a gravel base but with mulch in the joints so it looks less refined based on the woodland setting. Bergenia and Hosta flank this path into the backyard. This path has been in place since 2002 and looks as good today as it did back then. The second photo is a walkway to the front door and as you can see it is mortared into place and a more polished aesthetic. These are usually done on top of concrete which is "under-poured" in anticipation of the flagstone depth. This is a high-skill flagstone installation. In the end, the skill of your contractor is going to dictate the success of the installation. NHBabs and Gardengal were being kind describing the current installation as 'strange' and 'poorly executed' as I look back at your photos. Show your contractor some photos of what you want and simply ask, "Can you implement this work?". If they fidget, look down at their feet or start gazing aimlessly at your dogwood then it's time to launch them and hire the next man or woman standing. Good luck with your project!!

I put one in my basement in WI. Same thing, just chose a corner then poured 2 extra concrete walls while they formed the rest of the basement walls. Steel door + frame with a mortise strike and deadbolt, it's overkill but my door is fire and hurricane rated. I chose to do nothing for the ceiling (open to wood trusses) because it's only 8'6" x 12' I put 1 hvac supply vent in there to better climate control it, the floor is heated (because the rest of the basement had it anyway), and I added a small floor drain in the center. Added an alarm system control panel in there, and a landline (since IT rack is in there too). Room is on its own circuit. IT rack has HUGE ups (uninterrupted power supply) batteries to keep my internet/cameras up in a power outage, but it also powers backup lights in the safe room and can charge phones I use mine for my IT rack location and gun safe. Once I get to it, I plan to turn the entire room into a "gun safe room" in itself, then I'll have a cabinet in there with emergency supply stuff should the family ever need to sit in there. Eventually I'll hang a cheap TV in there if I come across a free one, to display house cameras. I too was torn between the "do I make this into a big functional room or just do a large closet" but decided on the latter since it would be used much more as a gun room than we would ever need to sit and wait out tornadoes as a family pics before floor was poured: If I designed it again, I might have just chose a location closer to my staircase/exit

We did our own home plans but an architect went over them at an extra cost to perfect everything and make sure everything, foundation was to code. We own our lot (150 acres) and we are working with a bank to finance construction. We have called a concrete contractor to get a third point of view and we have also called the county building inspector to talk about it. I spent all morning on the phone with our builder. He says he can lower the doors to the joist and have the subfloor and hardwoods (and the tile on the porch) come up and meet the exterior doors. This will allow him to significantly lower the doors back down. BUT, some SERIOUS flashing system is going to have to be put in place to prevent water issues. This is a very deep covered porch. Its 8 feet at the most shallow point and 16 feet at the deepest. Its also south facing so here in NC most storms come from the south. We are having an in person meeting this week so he can personally show and discuss what it is going to be like. I've already warned him that if we move forward and install this tile and the doors are still too high, now demolishing tile + concrete + brick + concrete galv support pans is just going to be too much. You cant expect to avoid paying for a mistake, and keep making it worse and piling that on top of the home owner. It aint right. Hopefully this will be alright. He says we will have to pay for it ourselves to demo it at this point. He refuses to take responsibility for the mistake in the beginning siting that "all porches have concrete with a brick top edge". This is a custom home, not a track home. That means its ok to do custom. I'm the kinda person that I would rather say screw it and just throw money at it to make it right, but my husband naturally is more of the "Die on this hill" kinda person and make him pay for it all come hell of high water. We women like to avoid conflict lol. I'm actually the one calling because my husband has rage issues and it wont go good.