1) Hydraulic cement may work. Or if this is an active water source, you 'll have better luck with a polyurethane or epoxy injection repair. These are the preferred systems used by many new home builders. 2) Watertite by Zinsser can be tinted, so you don't need to paint twice.

I can answer one of my own questions after reading the DriCore FAQ. It states to not apply any waterproofing sealer to the concrete. It also makes this statement regarding tile: "Tile - DRIcore is designed to act as a floating subfloor. It is not recommended that ceramic tile be directly attached to DRIcore as the movement of the floating subfloor will cause tile and grout lines to crack. In the case of a ceramic installation, prepare concrete floor by applying liquid concrete leveling compound to the concrete floor surface to eliminate concrete floor height variances. Fasten each DRIcore panel with four, flat head and countersunk, concrete fasteners to the permanent concrete floor to prevent movement or shifting of the finished ceramic tile floor. Dab silicone in the fastener openings to seal these holes. DRIcore panels must lay perfectly flat without bounce or deflection. Install a ¼" underlayment or ½" cement board suitable for ceramic tile installations on top of DRIcore. Follow the underlayment manufacturerÂs installation guidelines for fastening to a subfloor. Please note that we also do not recommend gluing underlayments or other wood flooring materials to DRIcore. "

Thanks for the input.. I agree that it is probably redundant, however I always go down the line of thinking as "well what if".. And I know you can play the "what if" game all you want but I just think that when going taking on a project like this you want to take whatever precautions you can and spend money wisely.. Being that the exterior has waterproofing installed I figured the Drylok would serve as an interior "backup".. I have read about installing drylok and found that as per manufacturer you need to use specific type of brush for the first coat to ensure it is worked in properly and then followup with a second coat hours later with a roller.. The only problem I foresee is possibly being how well the rigid foam board will stick to the walls once drylok is applied.. The builder is charging a lot more then I expected for doing my basement walls with rigid foam board so I am considering taking this on myself.. He wanted somewhere in the range of 4k to supply and install the rigid foam board.. I have found that I can source the 2" rigid foam board for around 2k plus the adhesive and tape which should only be about 100-200 extra.. From what I am reading online this should only take a few hours to do..

Two houses ago we had a similar scenerio. We used the space for a small amount of storage but that was it. I disliked the dust from the concrete so we coated the entire floor with an epoxy product. We don't remember the brand but it was easy to do. Take everything out, a good cleaning, application. Made a huge difference and the people that bought our house when we sold it loved that it would be easy to look after. I believe a lot of the newer products come in interesting colors. Then if you ever to decide to do more to the space you can just build over it.