From the Dri-Cor Site: "For homes where the basement may have an existing subfloor or covering over the concrete surface that may trap, block or absorb moisture, we recommend that it be removed prior to installing the DRIcore panels." None of the glues used to fasten the wood to the concrete are water soluble after they're set. I wouldn't think they would be a problem. To confirm, you can always call Dri Cor's toll free line--1-866-767-6374. If the wood flooring was put down before 1990, you may have to take special precautions as it may contain toxic if disturbed materials. Feliz año nuevo!

Early blower doors tests in the 1980s revealed that leaky rim joist areas accounted for unexpectedly large amounts of air infiltration. You can seal rim joist areas with caulking and polyurethane foams (Great Stuff, for instance) and then either insulate with boards or several inches of closed or open celll foams. Spray or seal with foam board?" is essentially an economic question. What makes sense for a do-it-yourselfer homeowner may be impractical for a homebuilder. As a general rule, foaming is faster and tighter with fewer air leaks and thermal bridges than achieved by applying boards. But it's more expensive. As a sort of middle ground, diy foam kits sold in the big-box stores can be useful for doing the rims. (I've not personally tried them.) The mechanical attachment of the boards is straightforward. You can use concrete screws (Tapcon is a well-known brand) and fender washers on individual boards. Or you can run strapping secured by concrete screws across several boards. Here is a link that might be useful: Attaching and Taping XPS to Basement Walls

Got the answer from a paint dealer if anyone is interested. Answer is neither product will work. 'Once a waterproofing product has been applied, any other waterproofing product put over it will essentially be worthless because it has to be able to absorb into pores of bare concrete'. Wish I had a plan B...

Before getting an electrical quote, figure out exactly what you need in the way of receptacles, switches and lights. It may be possible to extend the existing wiring into boxes on the new framing. But if you have to ask about it, I'd say it's not a diy job. Just because there is wiring doesn't mean it meets Code. I once checked out a friend's new resale home. The seller had been very proud of his basement, which included wiring he had done himself that never blew fuses. Of course it didn't. He had connected the 14 gauge wire directly to the 60 AMP main fuses. In case of a fault, the wires would melt their insulation and set the house on fire first.