Sample eggshell, quart matte. Color difference is absolutely feasible due to sheen. Most people would say sheen makes color appear darker. Like if you spit on a blackboard. Matte and flat 'makes color appear richer' as light is more diffuse and scattered and there is less reflectivity - that equates to a higher-end look and is richer and more complex according to some tastes. Color change going eggshell to matte is barely detectable to many people - visual acuity just isn't there to pick it up or care. Other people see it instantly and not only see it, they feel it. Same with some Aura colors deepening over time -- I know that happens. I've seen it happen. It's a characteristic of Affinity colors that some people simply do not, can not see or sense. Same thing happens with (some) Kilz Casual Colors. All that's neither here nor there, really. Question becomes which color do you like the best and what's your plan to get that one on the walls.

My baby is now three months old. I'm already a very different parent than I expected to be! I thought I would remain much more emotionally calm than I usually do. I'm getting better, but our baby can be so much more frustrating than I had anticipated. My sisters' babies are so easygoing and relaxed, I suppose I expected our baby to be like them. But no!! 'Relaxed' is the last word you could use to describe our Ben! He is an intense little guy and we have to work very, very hard to get him to relax and (eventually, if we're lucky) fall asleep. My sisters' babies would fall asleep after gazing at a mobile for a while.... I've learnt that babies come into this world with much stronger preferences than I thought! Ben's strongest preference is for lots and lots of cuddles all the time, which is both incredibly difficult and an incredible pleasure. I've attached a link to some pictures of our little bundle of trouble and joy! Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of Ben

My experience has been you aren't going to find a paint that will look the same color on all walls at all times of the day and night. This of course is due to lighting and what the paint is reflecting off of. I guess the key is to make sure you do all four walls and then look at them day and night. Remember, once you get furnishings, etc. into the room, the paint will not be the primary focus. My new office is painted Nantucket Gray which is a very pretty color by day. At night, I'm not so crazy about it. I didn't have adequate lighting in the new house at the time the house was painted so I had to chose my colors using the similar lighting at my present house. I did pretty good on all my choices except for that one. Since I don't have the option to repaint I'm devising other ways to ensure it's not the focus and to use bright white lighting that will keep it as bright as possible. I chose BM's Rich Cream which looks yellow, very pale, yet when the afternoon sun hits the laundry room, where it is also, it's a very, very bright yellow. That's OK though because bright yellow in the laundry room is a good thing. I don't get direct sunlight into the main living area where the RC is also, so I never have to worry about that room turning bright yellow. As long as the color I chose looks good in all lighting, not necessarily the same in all lighting mind you, then I can live with it. Does that make sense?

Unless you are doing inset, applied doors look more authentic because the door always sits on top of the face frame, and an applied door will give you the same look as the actual door front, and the same molding reveal for wall cabinets, and toekick, if the side is properly recessed. Doing an integrated end panel on uppers visually moves the miter point of the crown, and some people notice that detail and it bothers them. With full or partial overlay, when you have a 3/4” door sitting on top of the face frame all the way around the box, it looks more authentic. If you are doing inset, even in a mitered door, the cabinet maker should offer a paneled end that is just like the face frame, with a fixed door inset into the stiles and rails. The better ones rout the interior side for a thin panel so no light or dust comes through. And the seam itself between the side and front is mitered, so that the seam between panels isn’t on the side, but at the corner. One other option that is used a lot in islands is to create an active door on the end so that the contents can be accessed from multiple directions. That works visually no matter the overlay style, because it is a real door, not a fake one. These are all the details that separate a low or mid level project from an upper end project. If you are using Bertch, they may not offer some of these upper end detailed ways of finishing off the cabinet sides. You have to read the spec book. These are all upgrades, with the associated upgrade costs.