I've never seen the jumbo bracts on examples here. I was surprised to see what I took to be the original tree at Sonoma Hort. was apparently a dwarf. A propagule from a retail outlet up here has come along fairly nicely, apparently seedling rootstocks used may be invigorating the scions, with more normally sized trees being the possible common outcome. And the one I planted has yet to produce abnormal bracts. So it is looking like the main benefit of planting the cultivar is going to be the early flowering. I planted a second one here (the other is in Island County, WA) so I will be regularly observing two of them on two different sites in future years.

Josh - The plants I have under lights for the winter get fertilized each time I water with 1/4 tsp of FP 9-3-6/gallon of water. When I water, about 10-20% of the total amount of water I apply exits the pot. If your plants are getting natural light and you think they could do with more, you might try fertilizing at the strength I mentioned, then water twice so you're flushing the soil, then repeat.At these low doses, there isn't much concern about over-fertilizing unless the soil is VERY dry. I'm watering well before there are any indications of drought stress, and have seen 0 indication of plasmolysis in any of the plants. Keep in mind that plants make their own food - glucose. Fertilizers are the building blocks they use to grow and keep their systems orderly. Charles - There is a difference between air movement and a cold draft or a hot wind. Air movement upsets the boundary layer (of air) surrounding the leaf and increases transpiration. This means that more nutrient solution is moved through the nutrient stream - generally a good thing. Air movement can also have a significant impact on keeping pests and diseases in check, and it helps promote back-budding. On the other hand, if your plant's ability to move water to distal parts is limited by poor root function/health, air movement can be a negative insofar as the plant's appearance goes, because increasing water demands combined + an inability to efficiently move water to the plant's distal parts will produce more necrotic leaf margins or tips. I have 2 - 20" box fans (set to low speed) in my grow area + a 12" round fan blowing over a plastic cake pan cover ($1.50) that holds 2 gallons of water with humidifier wicks in it to increase humidity, which really decreases the humidifier's run time. Too, MG soil has water retention issues you need always consider because of how water retention impacts root health/function. How much/often you water is always a consideration when you're using a water-retentive medium. Al

Dave is right, in that it's not getting nearly enough light. I don't know where you live, so I can't comment on the timing of an aggressive pruning session, but there is definitely one of those in your planting's future if it's ever going to be under your control. At some point, you'll need to take a set of loppers and use them to do a reboot. When you do, you can cut the worst offenders off half-way between where the stem exits the soil and half way to an imaginary line that is vertical to the rim of the pot. Yes, that means some short stubs. As the plant comes back online, you can remove buds or branches in awkward places and keep those in places that probe to enhance the appearance of the planting. Also, if you're not going to give it more light, you'll need to start instituting a series of chops. A 'chop' is a significant shortening of the stem. In this case, it's purpose would be to limit deflection (bending) of overly long stems that are too thin to support ther own weight, because of low light conditions ....... which brings us full circle to my opening comment. Al

dchall, Since the tree has been in the ground for a year now and is established, it is watered weekly, either by Mother Nature or by us during the dry season when it gets a good, long soaking by hose. We try to ensure 1" a week. The tree's root flare isn't buried. Being a young tree, the flare is not big. The raised soil ring (native soil and composted mix) around the tree is obscuring the view of the flare. It is fertilized regularly (every 6-8 weeks since it is established) with citrus fertilizer. Fresh compost is applied and worked into the soil 3 times a year. We appreciate your input on the grass, but as dirtygardener stated, we have restrictions on both watering and fertilizing lawns here. That fertilizer ends up in our water supply through our normal rainy season and excess watering by us. Many area communities are starting to ban fertilizer altogether. Our Gulf and rivers are full of red tide and green algae...the worst in history. The current event started in October of 2017, and is getting increasingly worse every month with no end in sight. The effect on our marine life, our own physical health and our economy has been devastating. Red tide and green algae occur naturally in small amounts every year. But, it is suspected that the huge amounts of fertilizer from big sugar farms that get washed out into our rivers and end up in the Gulf are feeding the algae. Housing developments, where applying lawn fertilizer and watering to excess to grow lush grass is common, are only contributing to the problem. So, we will continue to responsibly water and fertilize our trees and plants and let Mother Nature determine when our grass gets watered and we will accept our grass as it is. Our neighborhood and surrounding areas all have yards similar to ours. Just an FYI, many of the weeds that grow in our lawns are host plants for the caterpillars of smaller butterflies and moths. Applying fertilizers and weed killers would kill not only the weeds but the caterpillars that feed on them.