I only have one Analon piece, a saucepan with a metal handle, but do have several Circulon pieces with plastic wraped handles (Analon and Cirulon are both made by Meyer). I also have some All Clad. I have been happy with all of them. Only the All Clad lid handles have ever been too hot to handle without a towel. To be fair, the Circulon lid handles, even though they are plastic, also get hot, just not as hot. For the price, I think you will be happy with Analon. Calphalon is good too but I have not used it so cannot compare.

I've had 2 sets of Scanpans - the first I had for 30 years and the 2nd I bought for my son 5 or 6 years ago. The original Scanpans were not truly nonstick, they were stick RESISTANT. I used mine heavily and they lasted. But I have to say, the pans I bought for my son are *even better*. The new Scanpans really are totally nonstick. They don't "scratch" from the point of view of scratching through the surface alloy. They don't peel, blister, or otherwise wear through. My son's pans lived in his bachelor household for the first 3 years or so with 3 to 4 other bachelor roommates. They had cast iron stacked in them. They had metal utensils used on them. They got banged around, misused, abused, and generally were treated very very badly indeed. Yup, there are scuff marks on the bottom, but you know what? They are still absolutely non stick. Not only that, not a single pan has warped, discolored, or otherwise shows any damage. According to Scanpan, if you start to lose some of the nonstick ability, use Barkeepers friend and it will restore them. These haven't needed that yet. Yes, it's true - if you don't clean them properly they will build up gunk that will interfere with the nonstick coating because it's COVERING it. That's what they meant when they sent the pan back and said it hadn't been cleaned properly. The way to clean them is to stick them under cold running water straight off the stove - the bottoms are thick enough this will not warp them. If you don't like doing that (I only do it once in awhile myself but its all good so far anyway) you can boil water with some baking soda, or as I mentioned earlier, take some barkeepers friend to them. I had one pan - ONE - that blistered, and it was because of misuse on my part. There was food in it, which was stored in a refrigerator. Well unbeknownst to me, my brother sold that fridge and had it hauled away without my knowledge. By the time I realized what had happened, the food had been sitting out on the counter and it had molded. The mistakes were 2-fold: 1, don't EVER store food in one of these pans, and 2, for heavens sake don't let moldy food sit around in one at room temperature in the summer! If in 30 years of use and abuse (I am not at all shy in my handling of my cookware) that was the only time I had any damage, I think it's a good bet that somebody did something wrong somewhere if every single pan flaked. I'm not sure that can even happen with the new Scanpans, even if abused as above. The "wrong thing" may have been a manufacturing error - in which case Scanpan would replace the product, if it was sent back. Instructions for restoring nonstickiness or getting something stuck off: Boil with dishsoap, then clean as usual (I didn't measure the dish soap, just glopped some in and it worked ok) one tablespoon of baking soda per 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil and let boil for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and let stand 30 minutes. Clean pans. Make a paste of water and Barkeeper's friend. Scrub the interior surface to remove built up gunk. According to the manufacturer, this is how to restore your finish if it's built up gunk over time. BTW, do not EVER use Pam on this or any other nonstick surface. There is other stuff in Pam besides just oil, and that other stuff will build up a gunky surface that will cover the actual surface and make your pans sticky. If you've done this on a Scanpan, go at it with the Barkeeper's friend.

I have the Sam's Club/Member's Mark cookware. It is the tri-ply clad, purchased for under $130.00 for the 11 piece set. I have a gas stove and the handles do not get hot. I absolutely love this set and have posted my "findings" regarding comparisons on another thread ;o) Bottom line is: The handles are more comfortable in feel than the All Clad (sorry folks!). Someone mentioned that they thought the handles on the All Clad were attached "upside down", and after reading that I had to laugh because it definitely did feel that way when handling them. The construction is the same except for the rivets (the rivets on the Sam's are aluminum encased in SS vs. all SS...not a biggie). Performs the same with the same results in a "side by side" cooking comparison, using a friends All Clad. I certainly don't mean to offend All Clad aficionados, but I'd rather spend the $350.00+ difference on or towards something else.

I will write this here because I realized in my research, that this particular stem was not very common .. or at least, not common enough that people are writing about it in question/answer forums. It was very hard to find information, so I hope as this post becomes immortalized on the internet, that people might find it again in the future. My story: My shower head was dripping, and that lead me to see the reason as the hot water handle. I watched many YT videos, and they all mentioned a screw and a washer, and possibly a seat, that would need to be replaced. I felt confident to do that much. But it turns out, my particular bath handle is a Pfister with a different kind of stem/cartridge. It turns out that I needed one that could be replaced with an item called "Danco 9H-8H/C" (this item is currently easy to find on many websites and local stores, even if they don't carry as many of them for some reason). I went to my local Lowes and found only 2 .. I went to my local Home Depot and found none at the store, even no empty spot where they might be (though it is showing up on both stores' websites). Compare that to many other kinds of stems at the same time, still many were hanging on each peg. Example of the item: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-9H-8-Hot-Cold-Stem-for-Price-Pfister-Faucets-05850B/100571452 The original Pfister part is "Pfister 910-030 OEM Valve stem". If you just need to replace the washer, then that is possible. I'll get to why you might want to try this. https://www.amazon.com/Danco-89045-Bottom-Seal-Washers-Pfister/dp/B001ULAL70/ If you are the original owner, you may also be able to get a free replacement part. Check the Pfister website for warranty information. https://www.pfisterfaucets.com/parts-support/warranty-information In my case, it seems like the washer at the end, had become stuck to the pipes behind the wall. When I pulled out the stem, the washer stayed inside, and the stem itself came out, without that washer. It really was stuck because even if I moved my finger on it, it did not come lose from the wall of the pipe. I thought it strange but not knowing about pipes, I also did not want to dig at the washer with a plier or pulling object. What if I created more problems by now having a washer that was all torn up, but unable to be removed fully from the pipe, creating contact problems for a new washer? In the end, I went and got the Danco stem product mentioned above. I took out the new washer from the new one..and stuck the new stem into the pipe, hoping to make a connection with the washer. Somehow, that seemed to do the trick, because after putting everything back together, there was no more leak. I also admit that maybe the old washer was still OK, but something on the old stem was not holding out water. I can't confirm that though, since I could not get a good look at the old washer or I did not know how a new stem will hold off water since this stems seems to have holes in some of the white non-metal parts. I don't suggest this method though. You should want to use the new washer with the new stem. Maybe your old washer will come out with your old stem. However, for now, it made me feel good that there is no leak, and if a leak develops again in the future, I have more knowledge about how to go about fixing it. Now as for why you may just want to replace the washer only . First, it's cheaper. Just a washer compared to the whole new stem. Secondly, based on reviews, there seem to be some problems with this Danco stem. It seems to break again much sooner than later (check various sites for those reviews, so you can see it from the perspective of the person experiencing it). So a trend in the reviews seem to say that there could be design flaws in the Danco item, and if your original Pfister stem still works, then maybe just replacing the washer will be viable.