not the foil bubble foil wrap! instead when you undertake this job in the crawlspace (not basement..crawlspace..right?) go armed with buckets of mastic and paint brushes to apply rolls of hardcast brand 1420 mastic tape R-8 ductwrap (fsk foil scrim kraft paper with fg insulation) fsk tape same material as ductwrap but tape fastner duct stapler & staples cordless drill & sheet metal screws duct strap switch unit to from fan on auto to on position to keep ducts dry so that materials will stick & dry. then when you finish the job..go back to auto fan setting. unwrap duct remove duct tape screw sections of duct to fittings 90 degree ells, supply boxes duct take offs to plenum mastic seal all joints & fittings mastic seal plenum connections to equipment use duct strap to support ducts. try to keep ducts 6" off ground. re-wrap with R-8 ductwrap staple seams with double row of staples use fsk tape on top of seams. staple tape. use duct wrap to externally insulate supply & return plenums. it will take several days, depending on size of house & amount of ducts. adding external insulation to supply plenum will solve condensation issues that arise from putting all this in humid crawlspace. take plastic to help you slide around in there and good lights to see to work by. foil bubble foil for ductwork is easy..but it doesn't work. best of luck.

Are you going to actually remove the existing drywall? If so, after the drywall is removed, the electrician will install the lighting cans (housing). Then drywall. Then paint. Then the lighting trim. Installing the trim is easy, so you may be able to do it yourself. Otherwise, the electrician will have to come back. If you do it yourself, make sure the electrician doesn't charge you for the return trip. The other option is to leave the existing drywall intact and use remodel lighting cans. These can be installed with just a circle cut in the existing drywall. In that case, the electrician should be able to handle everything except for patching and painting the ceiling.

Thanks for the re dim4fun. Your IC rating clarification is more helpful than IC document pics which simply show fiberglass in contact with the fixture. Thermal cutoff on the Halo is 194 F which surely won't be an issue with fiberglass, a bit concerning with paper backed foil. If this covering of the duct failed, it would not be a good thing in the humid Houston climate. btw - Sorry for the repost of this issue. I'm a newbie here and did not realize posts might not be shown in chronological order. I'm trying to figure out how to delete the second post!!

Have an electrician take down the old light and take a look at the connection. You might need a stronger box, or not. That is a simple fix. Our small LR fan came with the DW but we did have a larger fan/lights installed last year. I think he may have replaced the box. As an aside, Don't put a fan anywhere near the kitchen stove if it is gas. Could blow the flame out, even on low fan setting. I couldn't use my fan in our last house when I needed it most - hot humid days :-(.