Hi mike (both mikes!), What type of perlite do you use in that mix of mostly bark and some perlite? Coarse? and the pine bark, will reptibark work? is there a way to modify the Gritty to be a little bit lighter without using perlite (it is hard to get coarse perlite here)? Can I use more bark and less turface and granite? making the mix lighter will CERTAINLY help! I wasn't even thinking about that for the future since now I am just going to put it into a 5 gallon pot (which is ALREADY an effort since hauling that pot as a 100lb women is NOT so easy). THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Ruby

Sounds like you over-potted and over-watered. When you first repotted, do you recall how much room 'inches' were between the rootball and inner pot? Since you downsized, obviously, the first pot was too large. Now thatyour Yucca is in a 10" pot, how much space is between the rootball and inner pot? Is the trunk firm or soft? A firm trunk means it's alive, and visa-versa. Even though you used succulent soil, other mediums should have been added..Perlite, tiny stones...the reason, soil drains well. House Plant soil, especially in excess, 'worse with succulent plants,' will cause rot. Does your Yucca have sideshoots? If so, they can be removed and rooted..Rooting is a simple procedure. A picture would be helpful..Toni

You should use a soil that allows you to water properly without worry about impaired root function or root rot due to the soil remaining soggy for an extended period. That precludes most commercially prepared soils as they come from the bag because they support a layer of soggy soil at the bottom of the pot that inhibits your plants' roots from functioning efficiently, or often causes root rot - a fungal infection that takes hold most easily in soggy soils with inadequate volumes of air in them. It's not impossible to grow healthy plants in these soils, but it's much more difficult than it would be in well-aerated soils that drain freely. If you're starting to get the idea that your soil choice is a very important consideration, one that plays a significant part in how easy (or difficult) it is to ensure your plant's best opportunity to grow as close to its genetic potential as possible - you're right. If you're up for it, I'll leave you a link that gives a good overview of growing in a way that allows you to avoid the pitfalls that bring most growers to the forums looking for remedial help. If you find that link helpful, and think a closer look at soils specifically might be in your best interest (I do), let me know and I'll link you to a thread with information that many container gardeners have found extremely beneficial. From there you can expand into fertilizers and other specific areas that should be very helpful. Al Here is a link that might be useful: This should be helpful

I have a 3' tire iron in the same place in my garage forever that just plows through clay tough soil to planr and for tough weeds and this is how I get the biggest rocks from deep in my gardens which I had alot when I was planting my rose beds or digging up old grass. Even the sharpest shovel won't get into that but I do have a pitch for that has helped me on many occasions especially with deep rocks which you have way down that eventually stunts the growth of everything. After digging the holes or just loosening the soil I ammend that soil with SuperSoil Ammendment and since my clay soil is such a hatd mess also mixed this with Supersoil Cactus some used coffee grounds and whatever else you have laying around but the Supersoil really has everything and this will keep the ground so nice for a couple of years till it begs for that again but it's usually fine and even weeds aren't as difficult to pull as in the past. Amazing amount of worms just love this mixture so you'll get great blooms. So grab the tire iron from your car or get on for your very best tool ever because it won't bend and is always sharp and heavy to get into those nasty grounds.