If the infestation isn't too severe, you may still be able to get them down to acceptable levels. Sorry for the scare btw, but i don't think people realize how hard it is to get rid of them once they're dug in. !) Yellow sticky cards for detection and to get some of the adults. 2) Diligent spraying of damn near any plant with insecticidal soaps and neem oil. If you prefer, 'inorganic" sprays I'm sure are also available, but I don't know if they do any better. 3) This is probably the most effective and I'm still working on it myself(damn gophers) is to go with integrated pest management. Create an insectary for beneficial bugs to feed and breed year round so when the pests show up, you have the good guys to take care of them. Once you do this, you'll be able to decrease the pesticide use and you'll want to. Because you don't want to kill the good guys also. Read up on IPM(Integrated Pest management) -- also a forum on GW 4) in the meantime(since you probably don't have an insectary yet) you may want to order some beneficial bugs/larvae that you can release. I'm going to order some green lacewing eggs shortly. If you have an ant problem, try to take care of it-- they'll scare off ladybugs and eat the lacewing eggs Here's a couple of links that may be useful. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7401.html http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/quickref/pest management/plants_attract_beneficial.html http://tanishapuchalski.wordpress.com/2011/04/06/nature-gardens-ten-flowering-plants-that-attract-lacewings/ Kevin This post was edited by woohooman on Mon, Jun 3, 13 at 17:48

let it really dry out. Unless it starts wilting, let it go to the weekend. Less water is better than more water. Believe me, I have waterlogged plants in pots here from the May-June continual rains, lots of yellow leaves, some really sad blossom end rot on my tomatoes (i.e. from the continual soaking in rainwater - interferes with calcium uptake which causes the fruit to rot when it's grown and almost ready to eat - very demoralizing) - you gotta get those plants dry and then keep them dry. Don't water unless you have to - unless their wilting etc. Then get them on a regular minimalist regimen of one good thorough watering once or maybe twice a week in the early morning. As a side note, I've been having a really tough time with serranos. Of the 15 or so varieties I'm growing, my two serranos are the least robust and seem to react the worst to the weird rainy, cold weather we've had this year.

I cut open the pods, remove the seeds and membrane, place on a paper towel in a casserole dish place on top of fridge and air dry for at least three weeks before bagging them. You can label the paper towel with the seed type, then add more layers of towels with various seeds. I've read if there is still moisture in the seeds they can be damaged when freezing, so I just place mine in a dark cupboard (I like my beer extra cold so sometimes stuff freezes in the fridge).

Remmember the Ronco Food Dehydrator with the the stackable trays, looks like a brown beehive with a heating element in it. Paid like $30 bucks fer it years ago. I just slice the peppers in half sometimes I save the seeds (my Bhuts), sometimes I leave them in, dry them for two days and then rast them in the oven at 170 degrees for an hour or two and it give them the nice dark carmelized look, throw'em in an old coffee grinder (I use strictly fer pepper powder). That's It.