The one thing that no one has mentioned is that the best lighting is always in layers. I would never have just can lights in my bedroom. Can lights / down lights are usually used for general lighting, not task lighting. Bedside lamps or wall sconces are an additional layer that provide low levels of light for reading at night or when low level lighting is needed. The other thing to remember is most of the time when you are in your bedroom, your eyes are closed. No one ever wants to walk into a dimly lit bedroom, think ceiling fan/ light combo with "soft white" incandescent lamps. You also don't want to be blinded either. However, dimming the amount of light is usually much easier and cheaper than trying to add additional light fixtures. I wouldn't rule out using can lights in my bedroom, but I also wouldn't want it as my only source of light in the bedroom. I also don't agree with Renovator8's comment about the trim size for cans. A 6" can is the most commonly sized down light. Most builders use them because they are common and therefore cheap. They can designed for most common household lamps including both PAR, R style, and "A" style lamps. "A" style lamps are the pear shaped incandescent lamps that most people refer to as bulbs or lamps for their home. An "A" lamp does a great shop of spreading light, but not at delivering it. Most of the light is usually lost within the fixture. Many builders use PAR or R style lamps because due to the way the lamps are shaped, most of the light is delivered to the work space and has a decent spread. If a lamp or bulb is seen from below the ceiling plane, then two things are going on. One - the can light is cheap and not deep enough. Or two (more likely) - someone is using a lamp that is not designed for this fixture. This can be a compact fluorescent "Par" style lamp or a larger wattage R or PAR lamp. Either way, the fixture is not being used as intended. Most manufacturers of down lights have a wattage label inside the housing, but there should also be a sticker on the trim indicating the correct style of lamps to use. Whether or not someone pays attention to it is another matter. I'll get off my soapbox now. FYI - I'm a manufacturer's rep of over 100 different commercial and residential lighting lines. All I do every day is sell light fixtures and look at different lamps.

I think something like this is what I may default to if I can't find anything nicer: Here is a link that might be useful: Amazon link

michoumonster, to qualify under Title 24 as "high efficacy", the type of light either needs to be generically qualified, e.g. fluorescent fixtures meeting a certain standard, or it needs to be "listed." Anything you or I whip together out of components isn't going to be listed. It is also doubtful that these LED strips/transformer will meet the minimum lumens/watt to qualify anyway. Check out your strip LED specs (which ones are you using?), knock of 20% for power loss in the transformer, and see if you can meet the standards: â¢15 Watts or Less- Minimum of 40 lumens per watt â¢15-40 Watts- Minimum of 50 lumens per watt â¢Over 40 Watts- Minimum of 60 lumens per watt There are strip light fixtures that meet this, but if I understand correctly you aren't planning on using those. To ionized: if one wants uniform lighting in the cove, rather than just at spots, T5 would put out way way too much light for the application. Here is a link that might be useful: Search for high efficacy lighting and other appliances

Along with doing custom audio/video, we also do a lot of remote controlled lighting projects which require us to swap out fixtures from time to time. We have electricians on staff and may be able to offer some solutions. Typically Non-IC housings are designed to handle higher wattage bulbs and cannot come in contact with insulation. However, they can be installed in an insulated ceiling as long as the insulation does not come in direct contact with the housing - this distance is typically 3" between the housing and insulation. With standard batting type insulation this is easily accomplished, with blown-in insulation - a little more effort is required. If you choose to keep the cans in place, you can retrofit them with LED recessed trims. These are sealed units (LED light & trim are molded together) that will fit flush to the housing - and along with a weather-proof gasket, will prevent drafts coming in from the attic/ceiling. The cost range for a 6" Halo Light is approx. $29 ea. Home Depot has CE contractor packs (5"-6") trims for $34 a four (4) pack. The 65W LED equivalent draws about 8 Watts. The low wattage will not generate much heat if in fact the insulation does come into direct contact with the housing - coupled with the fact that recessed cans are equipped with a thermal cut-off switch - so if the temp gets to hot, they will shut down. Insulation in general is also fire-retardant so there is protection there as well. A second option is to remove the lights/cans altogether and use Lithonia Wafer LED lights. They are LED recessed lights that do not require any type of housing and are easily retrofitted into the same size opening. It is a sealed unit that can be used in any IC, Non-IC or wet location. A little more costly at approx. $35 ea. We have been using these lights for quite some time with great feed-back. If you're staying in your home for long while it's worth the investment. Your house is not that old, so I'm wondering how the wrong cans got installed in the first place? As always, our disclaimer - check with your local municipality for your specific code requirements. Good luck Frank P - Square Peg A/V LED Retrofit below (tail screws into existing bulb socket)... Lithonia Wafer LED below (direct replacement)...