I think I should root prune/repot more often
Just Started(Sydney)
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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New Fiddle Leaf Fig, should I repot/root prune???
Comments (5)NO plant likes root congestion. There are times when root congestion might serve the grower because it has an effect on the plant the grower likes, but that isn't a clear indicator the plant will like it. Tight roots cause stress and all sorts of physiological problems for all plants. It reduces growth, branch extension, and leaf size. It limits vitality and caused the shedding of older leaves proximal (closer to the trunk) to growing branch tips (apices). If anyone tells you that a particular plant prefers to be root bound w/o explaining what they really mean is some growers like to maintain a particular plant in root bound conditions, they're wrong. If "some plants" really did prefer root bound conditions, Mother Nature would surely have arranged the plant's genetics so it grew tight little masses of roots right under the stem ..... but we know there are no plants that naturally occur that way. That said, your plant probably isn't in any immediate danger that pertains to root congestion. You're better to suffer the limitations the plant is now growing under for a while in exchange for a more opportune time to repot, which for you would be next June. Plants have natural rhythms, during which their energy levels wax and wane. For major work, like repotting (which includes root pruning), it's best to ask the plant to endure the added stress of repotting or rejuvenation pruning when its energy levels are at peak - not now when they are at or approaching their lowest levels of the entire growth cycle. If you haven't read it, the link below should be very helpful. If you are wondering about repotting and how to maintain trees in containers for the long haul, this link offers lots of guidance. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Lots more info...See MoreSummer pruning indicates I should have pruned more
Comments (24)Each time you deadhead, cut the cane way back. A new cane will grow but the shorter cane it grows from will limit its overall height. A three foot cane growing from a cane pruned to 12 to 18 inches will not end up as tall as a similar one growing from a cane pruned back to four feet. Your summer maintenance practices can limit the overall height of the bush. My experience is that a shorter pruned plant tends to bush out more and get wider. By choice, my hybrid teas stay within the 3-5 feet tall range...See MoreShould I prune a newly rooted rose?
Comments (4)If it's going into an attached garage, just throw it out there. You'll find elaborate instructions for getting plants ready to change circumstances, but I've never had anything bothered by moving that isn't a ficus. Plants go in, out, into below freezing temperatures, into hot, dry houses - they don't care. Now the coldest my garage ever gets, is low 20's F. And that's with -20°F and serious wind chill. Below freezing is relatively normal, but it has a hard time getting much colder than that. The roses in the garage have started to leaf out. I need to start watching them, and get them outside fairly soon. My current problem is that there isn't anywhere to put them that isn't covered with snow and isn't in the direct path of cars. I have to at least find the back walk before they can come out. During the spring, they do a fair amount of moving in and out depending on the weather. Our current forecast is for above freezing temperature until Wednesday night, so they could definitely go out for a couple of days. If the forecast low is below around 28°F, or I have reason to believe it is going to get colder than that, they have to get moved back in for the night. If a cold spell comes, and they have to spend a couple of days inside, they just have to. The strange thing, at least IMHO, is that while they start growing so much earlier than the in the ground roses, they don't tend to start blooming that much earlier. Mutabilis has a very hard time beating R. hugonis, and it should be working with a several week head start. There is a definite learning curve with this....See MoreHow often should I fertilize my bonsai and what should I use?
Comments (0)> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here....See MoreJust Started(Sydney)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJust Started(Sydney)
3 years agoJust Started(Sydney)
3 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
3 years agoJust Started(Sydney)
3 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)