I'm not sure I'd wait until after winter. Pothos is very hardy, and will tolerat repotting any time of the year, but if the plant is already in decline, 1) it could go south. very fast over winter, and 2) it will have lost much vigor by spring. If it were mine, I'd repot earlier rather than later. You can keep it bushier by pinching branches often. Just take off the last few nodes, stick the piece in water, then pot it with the parent. The branch you pinched will branch, thus becoming fuller, and you'll have a new branch back in the pit once the pinched piece roots. It'll keep your plant lush and full rather than leggy. Some people like leggy pothos though. I once saw a single stem wrapped all the way around the inside wall of a ferry terminal in Alaska - at least 200', probably more like twice that far. An interesting factoid about pothos is that the leaves grow larger as the stems climb upward rather than horizontally or hanging. I'm sure other conditions must be optimal also, but giving the plant a moss stick to climb will give your plant a very different look.

Tiff LOL dont be silly lady, im just gonna jump on all Your threads, post MY pics, get my answeres, and let You look like the bad guy! hehee seriously we're ALL learning, from Each Other, thats whats soo cool bout this joint (i think) ...and the Fun along the way. btw i dont (Hate) Anybody. or anything,, cept Stink Bugs! dem im goin to War on hehe oh may bad (5.1.1) of course,, hmm I'll try it on something to get a reference (perspective), heck ive got like every soil ammendment ingredient known to Man! lol ..been wantin to anyway :) yea big plants Are impressive, but i really like 'miniatures' in Lots of things, not just plants,, plus i dont have the space,,, i actually enjoy picking up each plant (on weekends, when ive the time) and taking to my lighted magnifier Lamp, giving em the once over before taking em to the sink,,, its kind of a bonding thing sorta,, Not like breast-feeding acourse! lol oh wow, yea i wasnt aware he was strugglin a bit, and the expense, Sorry to hear that Tiff, i'll definitely put you n your family on my Prayer list. :) hmm ive never married, thus no kids, so i dont know the 'joys',,, but man, talk about 'taking-the-good-with-the-bad' your probably thinkin (somedays) 'is this Really what i Wanted'? hmm,, wow really Nice sentiment Polly :) dang Polly? you type soo much younger than that!? hehe :)~ shoot its too late 4 pics, tomm maybe,, you kids in bed then, now? i gotta learn military time lol Night all, Tiff,, 110 oz's?? really, im not even gonna ask hehee i can still catch a cpl mins of Avat...rrr...zzzzzz

Possibly a soil minerals related problem. If it is growing actively now maybe you should fertilize it. It wouldn't be expected to do well without any fertilizer at all. A typical annual routine would be frequent watering plus fertilization in summer, with greatly reduced watering, no fertilization in winter when the weather turns dull and the plant becomes less active. With re-potting into a larger container filled with fresh potting medium in spring, as needed. (Also you don't want to leave the base of the pot sitting in water for extended periods).

Do you live in a large city? While a 2-week wait (or longer) for the soil to dry down is fairly common, commonality doesn't mean the plants that grow in it are going to show appreciation. Let's work on that point, and I have some other ideas that will allow you to make adjustments that might fix whatever is going on. That you can go long intervals between waterings w/o under-watering means there is an excess of water in the grow medium for at least a week after a thorough watering and perhaps longer. I know you've been at GW for awhile now, so you've probably read my tips on how to significantly reduce the amount of excess water your medium can hold. I'll outline them in case you're already familiar. * You can use items in the pot bottom as ballast to displace a large fraction of the grow medium that would otherwise be filled with excess water. * If the pot is of manageable size, moving it downward then sharply upward while holding the pot over the sink can remove ALL excess water from the pot. * You can tip the pot when done watering, which also removes a good measure of excess water. * You can use a wick through the side of the pot exactly where the sidewall meets the bottom (that's the best spot) or through the drain hole. Compare B to A to see what tipping your pots gains you; and compare E to A to see what a wick can do. Figure D is one way of using an item as ballast, but there are other set-ups. Sometimes, when the bark is too large, you'll get stratification where the peat migrates to the bottom of the soil column (causing it to remain wet for long periods) while all the bark is at the top of the soil column; but through the tell, it would seem you'd be picking up on that. Still, it's worth investigating when you repot. Wet soil and organic forms of N can combine to cause ammonium toxicity, and your fertilizer derives all of its N from urea. This is a very common issue but one seldom diagnosed. Your fertilizer doesn't contain Ca or Mg. Garden lime serves as not only a pH adjuster, but as a source of Ca and Mg as well. The magnesium fraction of garden lime is more than 125X more soluble in water than the calcium carbonate it contains, so it's not uncommon for a planting to need a Mg boost after a couple of years, especially when using a fertilizer that contains no Mg. I used to use and recommend MG 12-4-8 or MG 24-8-16 because I hadn't yet found Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It has ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, and serves admirably as a complete single source nutrition package. I use it for all plants except tomato and hibiscus. For those, I still use it, but I increase the amount of K it contains for hibiscus and tomato by adding ProTeKt 0-0-3, which also contains silicon, which I have found makes a big difference in that it helps plants better tolerate heat/cold, too wet/too dry, insect herbivory and disease pathogens. You might want to try the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. In the meanwhile, you can try adding a dose of Epsom salts with a solution strength equal to 1/4 level tsp/gal. I almost never recommend dosing with anything aimed at providing a single nutrient, but in this case there is so little probability of a negative result it seems reasonable. Finally, the damage is concentrated in areas of the leaf where the variegation is lightest. If these plants get much foll sun, it could be sunburn. The pigment, chlorophyll, actually protects the leaf's photosynthesizing apparatus from solar overload. Leaf tissues with little to no chlorophyll are much more sun-sensitive than their greener neighbors. Al