It has not been load tested. I put in the new motor almost 2 years ago. Here is what I bought: Briggs & Stratton 540cc 331877-0036 http://www.smallenginesource.com/briggs-stratton-540cc-3318770036-p-3922.html It worked great for the first year, then started giving me these starting fits, but I was able to get it going by rotating the motor by hand and keep trying to start it. I also thought it might need it's valves adjusted so I had my friend come over and adjust the valves as per the manual. The battery is a year old and is 360cca I think, I also hooked up another battery via jumper cables with the same results. I put in a new starter, solenoid, and re-did all of the grounds, and ran new power wires. You said: "But, when you start the engine, depressing the clutch/brake should take that parasitic load off the starter during cranking...?" I don't have a clutch, only a parking brake, when the parking brake isn't set it will not even try to start, so the parking brake is on until I sit down and move the speed/steering controls. Where do I go from here? I appreciate the reply.

***"Mounted in plastic"*** Unless Deere has included some sort of "ring terminal" to the mounting, there is no need to separate the PTO switch from the plastic mounting panel. You said that the brake switch had been defeated before you acquired this mower and now the wires are taped to the brake pedal. OK, I don't see anything in the diagram where a defect in the brake switch could cause a problem in the operation of the engine that that occurs ONLY when the PTO switch is turned ON. By this I mean that any problem in the brake switch that could affect how the engine runs..........would affect the engine even without pulling the PTO switch to the ON position, so we can move on from that and go to the PTO switch itself. After studying this diagram at length/depth.......I believe the problem (engine wants to die when PTO switch is turned ON) can only be due to a defective PTO switch. And I think it must be because the PTO switch is bleeding some voltage into the magneto kill circuit which then upsets the normal spark making function of the ignition system. The way I see it, there are 3 ways you can test this: Option A, disconnect the wire pigtail from the PTO clutch and connect 2 independent, temporary wires to the clutch, be sure to maintain the correct polarity, Blue wire is the hot side, Black wire is the ground side. With the temporary wires in place, and the engine running, touch the temporary wire for the hot side of clutch to the "Battery hot" post of the starter solenoid (safer than the battery hot on battery). If the PTO clutch engages without affecting how the engine runs...........defective PTO switch. Option B, Disconnect (or cut) the White wire lead that serves the PTO switch (if you choose to cut, make sure you cut so it can be restored). With this white wire out of the equation, start the engine and turn the PTO switch ON. If the engine runs OK now, replace the defective PTO switch. Option C, Replace the PTO switch and hope for success.

I have a 2003 troybilt LT2146. I have broken several PTO tension springs. This spring is about 4 inches long by 1/2 inch in diameter. On my unit it attaches from the PTO lever to a 1/4 bolt hanging down. The first time I broke one I had a heck of a time figuring where the spring hooked up. The Drawing inthe owners manual does not show this spring. You have to look real close and use some common sense. I hope this helps!

Well now, just because the PTO "stays engaged all the time" does not necessarily mean that the PTO clutch is actually "electrically energized". If the PTO clutch bearing seizes, or if the clutch plates have become stuck together, the clutch might be "engaged" mechanically. If............the clutch is really being engaged electrically in the manner you describe, you should be able to hear the clutch "snap" into engagement when you turn the key switch ON & OFF, or, by getting under the chassis and unplugging the clutch wire connector while the key is ON (engine not running off course). If you here the clutch engage as you plug and unplug the clutch wire connector or turn the key ON & Off (with PTO switch OFF) then someone might have tampered with the wiring at some time in the past. But if you DO NOT hear any click of engagement, then the clutch may be locked mechanically due to a defect as I mentioned above. To check for the clutch being locked mechanically, try to turn the clutch by hand with the engine OFF. If you are unable to turn the clutch in this fashion, the clutch might be locked mechanically. Top confirm if the clutch is locked mechanically, unplug the clutch wire connector and try starting the engine (but not while you are under there). If the blades are turning with the engine, the clutch is locked mechanically. Some clutches have a replaceable bearing while others do not. The presence of a snap ring next to the bearing indicates a replaceable bearing. If the bearing is "staked in place", non replaceable. This machine sounds as if it is not your personal machine ("This is a mower we use at my son's ball field."), so the possibility someone has surreptitiously monkeyed with wiring could be very valid. If you want to proceed with some testing, please create your own new thread on this issue. I think this thread has been hijacked enough. A new thread will keep everybody separated.