All manufacturers have their own installation guidelines. I deal a lot with Coretec which is a vinyl plank product with a cork backing. Their installation requirements state that you will need to check your subfloor with a 10' straight edge for any dips or humps. Any dips or humps greater than 3/16" must be addressed. Humps will need to be ground down and dips will need a floor patch or self leveler. Home Depot sells a self leveler by Custom Building Products, this is a great product that I use on our jobs. If you choose to lay a moisture barrier (we don't with Coretec) the 6mil product you have shown named Blue Hawk will work.

Yikes, we just had a local Flooring Contractor begin our flooring project. We're replacing the carpet that was original to the home, and ripping out the tile in several areas to install LVP over slab. The Contractor talked a great game, telling us about his 15 years experience and his "5 Star" reviews. When I asked about getting the old carpet glue up, he assured me he had a "power scraper" that will take the glue right up. Asked about filling nail holes from tack strips, he said he had self leveling stuff to fill those. My wife and I knowing we were getting new flooring began removing old carpet and tack strips where accessible. I filled the little craters left by pulling up the tack strip and scraped up what I could with the glue. Figuring this would save some time for the contractor. Well when it came to do the actual prep, he suddenly changed tune saying he's never fills those hole in the concrete it doesn't affect the floor at all and is a waste of time. I can see that might be true with the small holes, but pulling up the tack strips left from pretty sizable "craters." The next "red flag" was when he changed his tune on scraping the glue, he claimed the underlayment would take up any imperfections and we'd never notice once the floors are in. He said something interesting, when he said that when he's installing he asks himself if the floor will feel good under foot to the customer. Which we took to mean, if the customer never knows he didn't do a proper prep or follow manufacturer installation requirements, it's a win. When it came to following Manufacturers installation procedure, he claimed that's just CYA stuff and he does it his way. Running the underlayment perpendicular to the direction of the LVP, nah, he said you don't really need to do that, besides it takes more time. Then there's the logistic accommodations we went over with him from the get go, due to our pets. He agreed to 3 phases...until he began work then he suddenly claimed he never agreed to 3 phases, just two, then went into how he's never had a client who couldn't just put the pets in carriers and put them all in one room, then he questioned why we would adopt feral cats. That was not his job to judge our choice to rescue some cats. Oh it gets worse, with him not respecting our property. When he was taking up the tile in a bathroom, he put the toilet in our Jacuzzi shower. Did not cover the glass shower doors to protect them from "flying" mastic and tile chips. When we called him on it, the excuse was "I know what that shower is made of, and putting the toilet in there won't hurt it." We said that wasn't the point, the point was you didn't respect our property. Anyway it was excuse after excuse, argument after argument about how we trying to tell him how to do his job. Well in the end he was pretty pissed off that we expected he followed through on things we discussed and do a proper surface prep, so he quit the job. We now have a living room with basically a pallet of LVP, boxes of QuietWalk and bundles of base board. We've got another contractor coming in a few days to give us a quote on completing the project.

Demo. I'm never had bamboo flooring but, besides the concerns about making a moisture sandwich to rot and mold, I would be concerned about the expansion & contraction of the bamboo underneath the rigid overlay. What I understand about bamboo is that it is more wiggly than wood. Since you have engineered bamboo, probably doesn't move as much as a solid product would. There are other reasons to remove it--like avoiding having to undercut door casings and shorten up doors. Removing baseboard or compromise by having it buried behind flooring. Probably other reasons that I'm not thinking of, too. I would pry, scrape, whatever it takes to get it up & haul it to the firepit to get rid of it. There are going to be about a hundred responses telling you not to burn it. Fortunately, none of 'em know where I live. :-)

Karndean Art Select has the thickest wear layer of any vinyl plank I can think of at 0.7mm (28mils) so it is very durable. As Jolene said, a glue down vinyl feels very solid and is very quiet to walk on. The glue downs can also be easily replaced if any damage ever occurs, which is unlikely. They are very similar in terms of durability and quality and are both backed by a lifetime residential warranty.