LVP floated over engineered hardwood
Megan
3 years ago
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tatts
3 years agoG & S Floor Service
3 years agoRelated Discussions
engineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See MoreEngineered Hardwood vs LVP with Pets
Comments (3)OK...first things first. Everything scratches or shows wear - eventually. What you are asking is what will look GOOD in 6 years. The best options are: 1. Stone 2. Porcelain 3. Ceramic 4. Epoxy over Concrete 5. HIGH END vinyl (commercial grade) 6. High end laminate 7. Sight finished hardwood with high-end finish OK...so you are asking about 'middle of the pack' performance. The HIGH END LVP products (or SPC or WPC...your choice) can perform very well. They should cost $7/sf and be rated for commercial/light industrial traffic. Those bad-boys should have a wear layer between 30mil and 40mil. A regular high end product comes in at 20mil (good enough for most American homes). These ones have a price range of $5-$7/sf. To be clear, a high-end laminate ($5-$7/sf) will out perform the 'regular high-end vinyl' (20mil wear layer). The question becomes: Why replace everything now? If you are selling in 6 years, you might as well wait another 3-5 years so that the floor you put in will be hyper-accurate for trend AND look amazing....See Morefloat or nail engineered hardwood or bamboo over another floor?
Comments (7)So here is what you are doing: you are slowing reducing your ceiling height (which is a selling point = higher ceilings = higher value in the home) with each layer of flooring. Just because SOMEONE else has made poor flooring decisions (made because they didn't have the budget to do it properly) doesn't mean you need to follow suit. Each layer you put down is another layer you will HAVE to pull out. It has to come out SOMETIME!!!! You can purchase new doors and new trim and new counter tops and new outside doors and new siding...etc... OR you can do the 'right thing' and get rid of the HORRIBLE flooring set up. You will pay for it today...or you will pay DOUBLE tomorrow. If you INSIST on doing this...then use the LOWEST priced flooring on the market = $0.79sf laminate and float the darn thing! Don't put down ANYTHING of value....NOTHING! Don't throw a 'medium' amount of money at this situation so that you can save a tiny amount today. You WILL PAY MORE. And remember: anything 'man made' (vinyl or bamboo) will NOT BE available 12 months from now. Which means you will NEVER match what is in that room. And that means it is a WASTE OF MONEY! If you must waste money (and you will be) you really should waste as LITTLE as possible. Find a nasty laminate and throw it down. You will rip it out in 7-10 years anyway. And no....don't trim your doors. It is the WRONG PLACE to put your money. Again = TOTAL WASTE OF MONEY! It's your call. How much money do you WANT to waste? That's what you need to ask yourself. IF you say, "Waste money? None! I never want to waste it! I can't afford it!" then you need to leave the flooring situation alone and start REMOVING the cr@ppy floors you have in the house and start saving for a REAL solution....See MoreFloors...hardwood, engineered, or LVP?
Comments (2)Oddly enough, lacing in wood + full sand/refinish is the LEAST expensive option. Nope. Not kidding. Assuming you have wood that can support a full sand/refinish (solid hardwood OR engineered with 3mm wear layer of wood on top), the cost to sand/refinish the EXISTING = $5-$7/sf...that INCLUDES labour and materials. That's the FINAL cost. To lace in some matching wood = $10/sf for the wood + install (or $400 - $800 depending on a 'job size') and THEN you calculate the $5-$7/sf for the sand/refinish. If you have 1000sf, your project will cost (estimate only) $6,000 + $800 = $6,800 for a NEW FLOOR. Wow. That's pretty darn good! Lets look at the 'other options' for 1000sf of flooring: Demolition: $2/sf = $2,000 (floor REMOVAL) Subfloor prep: $2/sf = $2,000 LVP Price: $3/sf = $3,000 (material ONLY) Uh oh...I spy with my little calculator...this just got MORE expensive already = $7,000 Install Labour: $3/sf = $3,000 oops...LVP is going to cost $10/sf for the ENTIRE thing = $10,000 The Demolition stuff = IDENTICAL for ANYTHING you choose = Non-negotiable = MUST BE DONE. The $4,000 to get 1000sf 'dealt with' so it is ready for a new floor is going to be the same no matter what you look at. The sand/refinish option is always going to be cheaper...unless you work with $0.79/sf laminate with installation as DIY....See MoreOak & Broad
3 years agoteddytoo
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoCelery. Visualization, Rendering images
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoci_lantro
3 years agoMegan
3 years agoFlo Mangan
3 years agortpaige03
3 years ago
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