I would go with a nice, relaxing greenish-bluish-gray, like this door: http://www.katyelliott.com/beta/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/green-gray-front-door-france.jpg or better yet, with less blue: http://tamiyashop.jp/shop/images//8/1/81776.jpg This is basically the color I have on my walls and it is beautifully offset against bright, vivid white. For accent, a pop of deep purplish red with the white and greenish gray is incredible.

funcolors, you didn't answer the question...now that I know about lrv, I do ask at the ben moore place and they typically can provide that to me...they also list lrv on their color gallery. Where did you get the other info on feather down? And where might we look for such data? Or do we have to ask? Or is it simply not available to us ordinary folks? No, I didn't. Didn't want to veer too far off sis's topic. And at this point it's a long explanation without a clear-cut answer at the end. You are correct about LRV. LRV is also listed in the index of every major brand's fandeck. Sherwin Williams even puts it on the back of their fan strips and paint chips. We use certified color measurements and then do the conversion to color notations here at The Land of Color. We apply the same exact method to every single color because consistency of method is crucial in order to make valid comparisons using the notations. I'll tell you why in a second. Dunn-Edwards is the only brand that currently publishes notations - in the fandeck index right next to LRV. It's part of what makes their "Perfect Palette" pretty much perfect. Regarding that consistency factor... Even if all brands were to publish notations, it would be difficult to cross brands and compare notations. Because of equipment, method, and algorithm inconsistencies. It's a lot like gloss levels. The paint industry has no universal standards that they all stick to when it comes to glossiness. Which is why one brand's satin looks like another brand's semi-gloss. It's the same with color. No universal standards for measuring color. Even LRV measurements are inconsistent brand to brand - but LRV is less of a problem than gloss or notations because it's just one number, and it's simple, CIE Y; a point or two off one way or another isn't a huge deal. Regarding color notations... As long as you stay within one brand's set of notations, all is fabulous. On average, most people do stay within one brand for their projects. Usually because their painter prefers to use just one brand. With that said, inconsistent color notations brand to brand won't be big swings. Differences will show up in hue more than value or chroma. The general hue family, R, YR, Y, etc. will likely be consistent but the hue number is where measurement and algorithm inconsistencies will show up. Hope that helps.

What kind of mood would you like in the room? Energetic? Relaxing? Warm and cozy? Cool and beachy? Your furniture is so neutral you can go in any direction, so I'd start with what you'd like it to feel like. Also, look for an inspiration...be it a pillow, a piece of art, a bedroom on houzz you like, or anything else. Once you have a mood and color inspiration, you'll find the pieces fall into place much easier.

so you want to put another type of wood (or wood look laminate) next to the real, darker wood that borders it? That isn't going to look good. either use the same wood/stain, or, use another type of tile. if you want to keep your existing wood, can it be sanded and stained a lighter tone? then you could just stain the new wood portion to match in w/the older flooring. Or, redo all of the flooring to a different, light wood, like this French Oak If you just want to do the one room, then choose a larger format tile (24x24, 30x30, or a 18x36 size) here are some options that Tilebar.com has. I love this Limestone look porcelain tile. and it would match your walls (matte finish, 24x24) touchstone, Misty Gray: