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4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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HFGH 8x10 and heating/cooling questions
Comments (6)I downloaded the 8x10 manual from the Harbor Freight site, and compared it to my manual for the 10x12. All parts appear identical, except for differences in sizes and parts numbers, so my expectation would be you'd have similar design weaknesses that we've experienced in the 10x12. The manuals say the 10x12 is 123" tall, and the 8x10 is about 87" tall, so I guess the 8x10 is a bit less of a target for winds...but if I was building one, I'd probably do similar modifications like we did for my 10x12 (cautious me!) I can't find any explanation in the 8x10 manual for the white front panels shown on the Harbor Freight link you provided. You might call the HF technical assistance number, 1-800-444-3353 to ask. The 8x10 manual specifies "transparent polycarbonate sheets" just like the manual for my 10x12, same thickness (0.165) so I'm assuming they use the same 4mm twinwall polycarbonate, but knowing Harbor Freight, they may be supplying something else for the front panels...and then just not mentioning it in their website or manual. I'd ask. Did you find this two-part thread about some Harbor Freight owners experiencing early panel deterioriation problems? Since your climate is similar to mine (some days over 100°) I wanted to be sure. I still think a modified HFGH is a good deal, but some of us in hot climates may find our HFGH panels don't last as long as folks in cooler climates. The person who started this thread (Laserfan) is located in Texas. HFGH Polycarb Panels failing! Some folks supplement their panels with bubblewrap for extra insulation during the winter. I didn't caulk my panels because I like to be able to remove them, for replacing with screens, etc. I did use foam weatherstripping around the edge of each panel. That really slowed down the panel installation process, but I find it gives me a very good air seal around the panel edges. I think dropping the interior temps to 30° below outside temps will be a challenge, and I agree your only hope will be some kind of air conditioner or evaporative cooler, as you mentioned, and perhaps a misting system too. (The smaller the greenhouse, the harder it is to keep cool, and I think the extra height of the 10x12 probably helps a bit with my cooling challenge.) Hopefully someone else has some ideas on that point (I grow cacti so I'm not much help in that department.) ;-) Sheri...See MoreTop 10 Best Performers of 2008
Comments (33)I hope I have this right Crintonic Gardens? What's up with all the Hansons? That has confused me since day 1 & now will have that locked in my ol' brain forever now. Curt Hanson is the 1 I want. Holy toledo! I just got done looking at C. Hanson's intros & instantly found @ 10 I would buy instantly. Too bad I can't afford much more at this point. I did read a post here on a lady that was going to that nursery & it should have registered, but it didn't. My taste seems to be just a bit different than most here, so I won't bore you with the 1's I like. But I do have to ask what the terminology is for the look of the '08 intro Catch A Wave. Reading the description on their PDF file is really blurry & can't make it out. I really like the look of the reversed pinch? Rita, there is no offese taken on any advice you have ever given me & I really appreciate your help. Everything you say makes perfect sense to me. I personally would go for all dormants if I could. I'm not real wild on looking at ratty foliage come spring. It seems that it might be something I need to tolerate until the season gets going. I am definitely taking your advice & only buying 2 more for the year. I really am anxious to see how these all pan out next spring to see if I can deal with the evergreens. As far as the bud count goes, I plan on potting them instead of growing them in the ground. Hopefully that will make some difference. This is the 1st situation EVER that I am willing to pamper something & overwinter it....See More10 days remaining; punch list questions
Comments (7)uh oh, based just on what you've written so far, I foresee problems. First off, does your contract specify TRCC "standards"? There are a couple of things you need to know about TRCC and the TRCC standards. First, TRCC (for you non-Texans, that stands for Texas Residential Construction Commission) is now a DEFUNCT state agency. It was sunsetted this past September when the legislature finally got the message that the TRCC was operating as a builder-protection agency and that homeowners simply weren't going to stand for it anymore. Second, while the TRCC was in effect, it adopted a set of minimum warranty standards that replaced the old legal standards of good workmanship and fitness for purpose. The TRCC standards include a one year warranty for workmanship and materials, a two year warranty for plumbing, electrical, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems, and a ten year warranty on structural components. Each standard specifies in excruciating detail what is and what is not considered a defect. Whether those standards still have any legal effect now that TRCC is defunct is up for debate and, so far as I know, no legal cases have yet worked their way thru the courts to settle the issue. IF your contract specified that the builder would meet TRCC minimum warranty standards, then my guess is that a court would say the standards apply in your case. If your contract did not specify TRCC standards but you entered into the contract with your builder before TRCC was sunsetted then there would be a good argument that the standards should be applied because both parties were relying on the rules in effect at the time the contract was signed. But, if you entered into your contract after TRCC was sunsetted AND your contract doesn't specify TRCC standards, then I think you would have a winning argment that TRCC standards have no application. And, given that TRCC's warranty standards were written so favorably to builders that 8 foot tall walls could be out of plumb by as much as two inches, the earlier legal standards of good workmanship and fitness for purpose served homeowners far better than the new warranty standards. Prior to TRCC, it was was left up to juries to determine if an alleged defect was bad enough to be considered covered by implied warranties of good workmanship and fitness for purpose - and since juries were likely to think about issues as if they themselves had had to face the problem in their own new homes, they tended to require builders to meet standards that the rest of us find more reasonable. Like, walls should not bow an inch and a half in the middle and there should not be 1/8 inch gaps between pieces of trim work! But, even tho the TRCC standards are so loose (despite being so detailed) that a house has to be practically falling down around you before it is considered "defective", NO WHERE in the TRCC standards does it state that a punch list defect must be "visible from 20 feet. If your builder is telling you that, he is lying thru his teeth (which is why I predict you'll have problems). Instead, different potential problems are defined in different ways. For example, paint issues are often "punch list" items and RULE 304.21(2) specifically states "Paint shall cover all intended surfaces so that unpainted areas shall not show through paint when viewed from a distance of six feet in normal light." Another big punch list item is often defects in hard surfaces such as ceramic tile, granite, finished concrete, etc. RULE §304.20(3) specifically states. "A surface imperfection in floor hard surface shall not be visible from a distance of three feet or more in normal light. A surface imperfection in non-floor hard surface shall not be visible from a distance of two feet or more in normal light." See what I mean about your builder's so called "20 foot" requirement! I think you would do well to download the old TRCC warranty standards and read thru them carefully well before your walk through. If you believe that they ought to apply, get your builder to state in writing that he considers them to apply then take a copy with you to your walk through so you have it to refer to. The TRCC warranty rules can be downloaded from the site linked below. DON'T just rely on the so-called "plain language" versions. They leave out the details and those are what you need to read. The formal versions are rather long but other than that, they are not difficult to read or understand. So read them and be prepared to make your builder meet them. And, forget the idea that you'll do the walkthrough to find defects WITH your builder in 1.5 to 3 hours. He'll be doing his best to rush you along and distract you from seeing defects. Go to the house ahead of time with several very observant friends and do your own walk through without the builder there. If your house is a 2000 foot home, expect to spend at least 6 hours. If it is larger, expect to spend proportionately more time. Make detailed notes of all the issues (room by room) so that when you are walking thru with the builder, it is just an opportunity to point the issues out to him. That you can do in 1.5 to 3 hours... and you can give him a typed up copy of your lists at the end so that he can't claim you never mentioned something. If you're anywhere in the Austin area, I'll be happy to try to make time to meet you at your new house (before your date with your builder) and help you do a walk through. I've gotten pretty darned good at seeing the defects and I am sick to death of lousy builders screwing homeowners. I just this minute finished talking to my next door neighbor who is in the process of having a horse barn built behind her house and it is already a total screw-up...to the point where I think her best option at this point would be to fire the builder, tear down what he has done and start over. Among other things, the concrete foundation is not level but rises and falls with the slope of her land and then her builder put NOTHING between the concrete wood 2x4 sill plates so they're going to rot out almost immediately. Anyway, back to your situation, while your builder may SAY he'll be showing up for a year to finish punch list stuff when you find it later, don't count on it. Once he has his money, you have ZERO power to get him back without filing a lawsuit against him. Anything on the punch list that you aren't willing to fix yourself better be fixed before you close. Since he seems to be lying to you already about the 20 foot thing AND wants to rush you thru the walk thru in 1.5 hours, I somehow doubt he is going to be a stand up guy and come back to fix problems you find two months after you move in....See More80 miles in one day and more...
Comments (2)I agree, thank you so much for sharing the details of your trip! It sounds like you are truly having the adventure of a lifetime :-)...See More- 4 years ago
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VA & MD Architectural Design-Build Firm | 6x Best of Houzz Winner
Richard (Vero Beach, Florida)