10 days remaining; punch list questions
Lil B
13 years ago
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Comments (7)
pps7
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Punch List help-Please!
Comments (4)Ah, I love a good project. I think you need about 65/25/5/2 proportions if you goal is visual harmony. 65-70% whites and colors that read as white or creamy. 15-25% aquas Around 5-10 % black (and browns) Only 1 to 2% orange So consider doing the china cabinet in black. If the back walls of the bookcase will be filled in with books and accessories, then yes to the orange. On the hall, I would let the rooms it connects be the stars. I would do all the doors and trim in the creamy white to unite them. I think using a color on the trim in a space that you don't want to "stop" in would be jarring and that the white would be flowing, in keeping with the function of the hallway space. Good use of the orange in the dining room, as the drama here can take it. I would be using little to no aqua here, but the creamy whites, black or browns, and let the orange be the star here. Fun fun fun...See MorePunch list photos (LONG)
Comments (6)Thank you for sharing photos. I read your last thread but it was hard for me to follow.. the photos help a lot. I am still struggling to see how the rooms all fit together but I see how they are all visible from one another. I have a much smaller home but I have the same issue with shared, untrimmed walls. I first had the rooms painted different colors-- but it felt so discordant that I had them repainted to carry one color throughout. It was amazing how much that improved the vibe and visual flow of the house-- and it felt bigger and more spacious. To answer one of your questions, when I did have different colors butting up on an shared, untrimmed wall, I used the color of the primary room (or the one most likely to be flowed FROM) on the end piece. I know you are absolutely set on the pumpkin for the dining room but do consider that it will break up your expanse of ivory walls-- it will scream. Is that the effect you want in your sea of creamy ivory? Would you consider some great swathes of orange in curtains ,seat covers and accessories for that room? I do love orange and I love that you want to boldly use color but it feels like too much contrast-- not just in color but in style. You have a relaxed eclectic cottage vibe going in much of your house. Your inspiration palette is perfect for that-- but a bold orange room feels much more modern to me. Just a thought. Love that you are going to paint your fireplace. I have a very similar fireplace and will be painting mine this fall too! I am a little concerned about how much you want to paint in the LR. Will you white wash or paint the floors? I think it's worth considering keeping some of the wood tone in the room.. it will add warmth and continuity as you move to the paneled room. Definitely paint the china cab. It will give it new life! I think I want to see the chairs remain wood-- recover in your new palette-- but I want their warmth. I might also want to see the coffee table as wood. One other thought on the floors-- I remember that you said they cannot be refinished again. I assume they are not thick enough? When I refinished my floors, my bff (who has a gorgeous home) was instantly jealous. Her floors are beat up and old -- but they have SO much character. I love them and i love how her rugs look on the floors. We spend so much time on here looking at new floors and gorgeous woods I think it skews our thinking. I had to refinish my syrupy orange oak floors- if not because of their color, because of the damage from time, water and carpeting. Do consider whether you can use rugs to add color, texture and character without painting the floors. I think a flat weave or dhurrie style would be lovely with the direction you are going and they can be picked up pretty inexpensively. Again, just a thought. One more tip on painting. I also have plaster walls with the same texture (that photos seem to emphasize). I used BM aura matte paint on my walls. The matte finish is perfect for these old plaster walls! It hides the imperfections (if you have them) and it hides that goose pimple texture. I love love love the matte finish and wouldn't use anything else. Yes-- paint the faux brick. Use a good primer to make sure it sticks. Again, I love your palette and I think it's a great direction for your style. My final thought is-- are you willing to reconsider your plan for ivory walls? I definitely think light and airy is a good direction but is ivory too stark? I love your green in the family room addition. There is a wonderful range of light grays and colors that lean aqua, blue, green. I so wish you lived on the east coast because I'd give you access to my basement full of sample cans. Two friends have repainted their homes based on my samples lol. A few that come to mind may not be quite light enough for you but they are lovely-- the first is SW Oyster Bay. My bff painted used it in her living room and it is easily my favorite color for a wall. I do think it's a little darker than you want to go but it's definitely in your palette (and looks great with ivories, oranges, greens). I have BM Gray Owl in my bedroom and while it leans green-blue it is ever so delicate and ephemeral. It looks great with orange, aquas, pale greens and dark turquoise. A little more neutral with a hint of green is Ancient Marble. You can try your colors (or stick with ivory) but as I imagine your plan in my mind's eye, I want to see a hint of color in the walls. Just a hint.. just enough to be enchanting. Good luck with your projects-- you have an aggressive plan but it is going to look great when it is done! Think how fun it will be to watch each room inch towards your vision!...See MoreHow much money do you hold back from GC until 'punch list' done?
Comments (8)I think enough to finish the job is a good rule of thumb, unless your contract specifies otherwise. This doesn't necessarily protect you against the contractor disappearing anyway, though. As a point of reference, while we've never worked with a GC, we have done two big projects with a structural and HVAC contractor in the last few years. The structural guy wanted final payment after we passed inspection. He got 90% done and then completely disappeared---no final inspection so we still owed him $3K, and he *still* didn't return calls! Took a month to get him back out to tie up loose ends so we could final the permit. Contrast that to the HVAC people, where the contract specified final payment upon completion of work---*before* final inspection, which irked my husband. But the contract also specified that they were required to correct any inspection issues within 30 days of notice, so there was some protection there. So if they disappeared, we would have had some recourse. I actually think I prefer that to the contract with the structural people, which didn't put any timelines on anything. And then there's our cabinetmaker, who has a 30-30-30-10 contract, with the last payment coming after we are "completely satisfied." Ha, hope he knows what he's getting himself into... :)...See Morepunch list questions
Comments (12)Tell him to hurry up and fix the outstanding items on the punch list, if he is worried about losing the ability to sue you. That is not your problem if he let this job to drag on and he plans to drag the completion of the-punch-list to stretch just as long. As the sub-contractors lien goes... If you previous payments to your GC included and covered the work provided by the subcontractors and he didn't pay them, he is withholding that money from them and he must pay them. If he uses that money to pay his own bills or takes a vacation per se... the moneys are called "trust funds" and the GC can be held liable for violating the trust fund law. Because the minute you give your GC the money, they are no longer yours and he is responsible to pay everyone he hired according to his contract with them. Your agreement is with him. Read your contract, the section that specifies progress payments. It usually shows the breakdown which payment covers what job. So typical payment break down usually goes something like this: Down payment @ signing contract 1st payment @ starting the job, demo, etc 2nd payment rough work and rough inspections, i.e electrical, plumbing etc 3d payment finises and final electrical, plumbing, etc. inspections Balance after the job completion, homeowner inspection which usually includes minor punch list items, etc and that payment is made completion completion....See MoreLil B
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotracey_b
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13 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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