Actually, I was only half serious when I said it was better 'NOT KNOWING'..Like anything else, it's important to learn, whether it's taking a course, reading, the internet or talking to ppl who study the subject.. Like Gabi's interest in breeding dogs..there's a lot to learn..When we lived in Chicago, I used to breed fish. So, there was tons of learning involved..what to feed babies, size of aquarium, what to do w/parents while babies were still young, etc. When we moved to the burbs, selling fish was too much, so we kept the parents, until they passed on..then got into breeding baby cockatiels..another learning experience..more reading..I bred birds for 6 yrs..lots of fun, but work too. Now that the parents are getting older, there's not much breeding going on, but I admit in early spring I discareded over 25 eggs..I felt terrible, but because of dad's age, I was concerned for the chicks health..The last batch bore a few babies that weren't right..I had to keep one, a pure white, tiel, girl. She's basically crippled, and has all sorts of health problems..so I figured as difficult as it was for me to toss eggs, I couldn't see breeding more..It's just too upsetting. BTW, Gabi, what type of dogs do you plan on breeding? Larry, what a story!! Sad and joyful at the same time..I'm glad you continued education though.. So, yes, it is important to read all we can on plant topics..and there's so much more to learn..My memory isn't what it used to be..so I mostly stick w/common names these days..sorry folks..And with all the new hybrids it's almost impossible keeping up..lol..take care, Toni

bobbi socal: way to GO! The gardeners who have helped me the most (in real life, as I'm a newcomer here) are those who have the humility that comes with learning from 'mistakes' - and admitting that gardening is a work in progress with the greatest lessons learned when we get it wrong to learn why & then how to get it right. Some stories are hilarious when you look back on them (I planted a camellia bush with growth potential of 14' x 14' in a narrow border; it did grace me with surviving its inevitable transplant. What was I thinking!). It's the sharing of successess and 'mistakes' that helps everyone who comes here. Now here's a question for you: what's YOUR biggest mistake (and talk about your greatest victory, too!) Hi dryad! Soil is everything. Talking dirt takes on a whole new meaning! I'm so lucky where I live that seaweed (the almost perfect plant food which we mix into our very sandy soil (that's when it isn't rock) ) is free for the taking. After one of our many windstorms here there are many of us gardening fanatics loading up on the beaches at low tide. Sue

I don't think that was it ,evelyn. These were made from upside down wire baskets with a bunch of strands of doo dads & mirrors hanging down . I can drag mine out & Take a pic if you'd like.

par. 1: I mistook your (jviolet lee) earlier post for definitive baffle information that the provided link appeared to support. With two rows of baffles there shouldn't be a problem of relatively uniform air flow, so you can disregard for the Proline anything I wrote related to that. par. 2: I didn't comment on efficiency exactly, only that it is possible to get away with one row of baffles if there is room to straighten the flow between baffles and aperture. Also, the more baffle area one has, the lower the air velocity through the baffles for the same blower flow rate, and hence (for equivalent baffle aerodynamics) the lower the noise. Deep capture volumes are not needed with baffles covering the entire aperture. Higher capture volume with full baffle coverage may have utility for transient plume conditions, such as suddenly removing a pan cover. In summary, as seen in the Wolf hood, high capture volume is not needed in such configurations. The caveat is that this requires that the flow rate (CFM) be sufficient that the rising plume velocity (ft/min) roughly equals that of the airflow through the baffle gaps. This is achieved at around 90 CFM/square foot of aperture area (depending on plume). par. 3: To clarify terminology: Capture area is the effective size of the hood bottom aperture through which the cooking effluent passes. It is approximately equal to the physical size (square feet) of the opening, but may include some small fringing capture of lower velocity plume components. I do not count this peripheral area, but note that it exists. Capture volume (cubic feet) is the volume between the aperture and the baffles. In commercial hoods this is large, but in residential hoods it is modest to nil. Nil allows some modern looking designs, but I would worry that containment might be compromised with no barrier at the ends of the baffles. This flush filter scheme is probably best used with mesh filters. This is not a plug for mesh filters. The concept of efficiency is relevant to the commercial realm. Here full capture and containment at the lowest electrical power and heating cost is the measure of maximum efficiency. Commercial hoods (with commercial make-up air systems) aim for maximum efficiency. Pro residential hoods typically strive to look pro while not degrading performance much. Efficiency is not a driver as full power operation in residences happens rarely compared with commercial settings. kas