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Bad TIle Job! Help Please!!

3 years ago

Hello everyone, our contractor just finished tiling our shower walls. He used cement backer board and just filed over that, not sure if that’s enough water proofing? Next, the tile is very uneven and not aligned so the grout lines are very uneven and is starting to crack even after only installing last night. At the end he put grout where the tile meets our base for the shower and also around the ceiling which I thought should have been caulk. Please let me know if I’m overreacting, is this normal, or should I be asking him to do it over again?

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Comments (10)

User
3 years ago
What does your contract state about the standards to which this would be performed? What was his description of the process? Where are the pictures of the work in progress? What was the total scope of the job? What did you pay for that?
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
3 years ago
Definitely sloppy grout installation, all change of plane need to be caulk... Any in process photos?
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I googled something else and found this thread. Lippageis poor craftsmanship. I was looking for a way to explain to my client why im taking so long. They keep complaining im slow at tiling I keep telling them im very detailed and every stone must fit perfect. Polishing lippage is wrong probably why it broke. A planatary floor sander should be used first to smooth out lippage. a full section should be done, like a room and stop on a grout line/seem. Then honing using honing powder to the desired finish this for natural stone. Polishing will not remove lippage. From WORK From WORK
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I feel qualified to comment on this issue, as we had a similar problem occur in our build with respect to the finish carpentry. To make a long story shorter, the trim carpenter did a horrible job - placing way too many nails in the trimwork, many unnecessary holes in our closet walls, and putting on chair rails upside down, etc. The excuse was that since our trimwork was to be painted, all of the nail holes (sometimes over 30 in a 5' piece of trim) could be puttied and covered. But it was so bad, and our painter wasn't happy about having to do all that nail covering work. So we insisted that the trim be replaced where needed and attached properly to the walls. Painted trim is not an excuse for shoddy workmanship. We thought we would encounter some resistance with our builder, and initially, we did, but once they saw how bad it was, they ordered a new trim package and fixed all of the problems, including recutting all of our poorly cut window ledges. We asked that the original trim carpenters not come back to do this, and we are now very happy and very satisfied with the replacement work. If you don't ask, it won't happen. We are not "picky" people, and we do not wish to engage in unnecessary whining and complaining, but consider the fact that you have paid a lot of money for this and that it is not what you asked for. Your builder is responsible for the work of his subcontractors. I hope that you can get the issue resolved. When subcontractors are working with such expensive materials, they need to be careful and professional in carrying out their work. Jan
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Is this a glass mosaic tile or a stone? Is the grout a normal mix, or epoxy-based? If it's a normal mix and glass tiles, you can consider using a weak solution of muriatic acid to help dissolve some of the grout. If it's epoxy based, you will have to use a heat gun to soften it - and you're better off just tearing it off and starting over (really hard to get epoxy grout off). Here's what I would do - tear it out & start over. The joints will take so much work to make them look "okay" at this point, you'd probably spend less time in the end if you started over. I say this after the tile guy our GC hired required 3 rounds of re-work to touch up joints in our tub/shower ... and then I still spent a day getting them really right.
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So "pro" was supposed to come back today and caulk. He planned to do sanded gray caulk OVER the sanded grout he put in the seam between new granite and b/s. Grout is already cracking. Countertop guy came today to fix a scratch and said you never use grout in seam between counter and b/s. Is this correct? Honestly, I don't even want my guy to fix it because he left such a mess and I don't think he'll be careful with new granite when cutting out grout to replace with caulk. I'm at my wit's end. He said he was coming today at 2:30 and called at one and said he was running 2 hours behind. Finally at 5 I texted and he said he had a plumbing emergency and just couldn't do another late night. So we had everything off the counters and waited all afternoon for nothing. He just texted and said our countertops are off 1/4' and that is why he grouted. Is this a valid reason?
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Tiffany Bates
Original Author
3 years ago
The only images I have are when out upstairs sink was leaking onto the backer board, I was there pretty much the whole time but am not knowledgeable about these things and just trusted that he knew what he was doing. So he just tiled right over then backer board the way it is in the images.
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
3 years ago
Is there heavy plastic behind the tile board? I suspect there isn't and this shower will be a tear out because it will leak- moisture will move through the grout into the cement, then into your wood framing causing rot and mold. Not good.
Tiffany Bates
Original Author
3 years ago
There’s no plastic that was used, he said it is not necessary since the backer board is cement material and waterproof. Not sure if this is correct, anyone use this type of board before? After researching there are some mixed instructions, some say plastic is necessary and some are saying it isn’t.
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
3 years ago
WonderBoard® Lite is not a waterproof barrier. If the area behind the backerboard must be kept dry, use RedGard® Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane or Custom® 9240 Waterproofing and Anti-Fracture Membrane
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
3 years ago
That would be a copy and paste from the manufacturer. If the manufacturer says it isn't waterproof, I'm guessing it isn't...

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/54/54c1642d-a5cf-4c0c-927a-c0a503d032f0.pdf

Here is the entire PDF for you 'contractor'
millworkman
3 years ago
No waterproofing (cement board is not affected by water) but water passes right thru it. Looks to be incorrect fasteners and pattern. All seams need to be taped with non-alkaline tape and covered with thinset. All changes in plane must be 100% silicone, not grout. Complete. Do. Over. by a tile setter, not a general contractor.
User
3 years ago
Not done to industry standards. Here are the industry standards. He’s probably never heard of the TCNA. Buy two copies. Give him one. If he cares, he’ll try to fix it correctly. If he’s a hack, he’ll puff up and do the “Ive been doing it that way for 30 years” even though he.’s barely 40. Read your contract in order to figure our how to fire him.

https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook/968-2020-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation.html

Here is for the next contractor interview after you fire that one. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer
cpartist
3 years ago
Complete do over and completely wrong.

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