I’m so confused...Please help!!!
HU-921909490
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Beth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Hood & Venting for Bluestar Rangetop...Zephyr or Bluestar?
Comments (32)There are a few sources of noise in a hood ventilation system (and potentially also in a powered make-up air system). The dominant noise when a silencer isn't or can't be used is fan blade tip turbulence noise. Second will be either baffle turbulence noise (more like a hiss), or its counterpart if mesh filtering is used, or duct turbulence noise. Baffle noise domination assumes that the duct is damped on the outside and the air velocity in the duct is not too high. Otherwise duct turbulence noise may dominate baffle noise, and the duct may also rattle passing on blower unbalance vibration noises. External blower noise is usually lower with a long duct than with a short duct, but one should not expect a really big reduction in noise just because the blower is outside instead of in the hood (for equal volumetric flow rate). (The exception would be a commercial external blower, configured deliberately so that the fan is oversized and the belt drive sheaf ratio is set for a slower tip speed.) For residential operation, where room for a silencer is available, an external roof blower and inline silencer is the quieter approach, leaving baffle hiss below normal speaking levels at full power. That is my configuration. Part of the duct turbulence noise will also be removed -- that from the duct between the silencer and the external blower. Fantech silencers are larger than the ducts, e.g., 14 inches in diameter for a 10-inch duct. http://www.fantech.net/products/fans--accessories/accessories-ventilation/silencers/ld/ld-10-silencer/ They have the general appearance of a motorcycle muffler scaled to a dragline excavator engine. The silencers are also somewhat longish, so if the duct was going to go up into an attic and straight to the roof at the roof edge, it would be necessary to use an angle duct after entering the attic to extend the duct length in the attic to accommodate the silencer, thence use another angle to bring the duct to the roof. Avoid horizontal ducting if possible. Try to make the ducting accessible if possible....See MoreVintage Hardwood...I am so confused!! Please help!
Comments (4)hbk, I've seen this product once before but regarding them as a manufacturer I have no experience with them nor have I heard of anyone using them. I think the only difference between the engineered and the structured is the thickness of the wear layer (top species later). One is 3mm and one is 4.5mm. Your first thought right off the bat would be the thicker wear layer would be better but be cautious there. Over the years I've seen some real problems with thicker wear layers on engineered floors regarding cupping, splitting etc. I've been in the industry a long time and I've dealt with many vendors. Over the last year I've sent a bunch of customers to fastfloors.com and they've all been real happy. I'm pretty certain they have a bunch of tigerwood floors if that's the species you're looking for. The guy I always call is Anthony. He's handled at least six of my customers for me. I added a link to their wood floor page for you. Hope that helps. Here is a link that might be useful: Wood floors at fastfloors...See MoreI'm confused now! Please help me to decide before my heat dies!!!
Comments (4)April, You keep starting new threads so it is difficult to review what advice you have received. Contractor #1 Option 2 is the nicest combination in my opinion. It is a Infinity 2 stage furnace (58UVB)and 2 stage condenser (24APA7). You could consider upgrading the furnace to the 58MVC for about $400 in order to get the middle stage. I still think the 58UVB qualifies for a Carrier rebate. Please check this. I have not heard of a Carrier armour coil. I know the tin plated coil is an improvement of Carrier's old leaky coils. This is the coil I have. The contractor needs to size the equipment by doing a heat loss and gain calculation. This is known in the industry as a Manual J calculation. Have each contractor explain how he calculated the size. I assume the summers in Michigan are not too hot, so the 3 ton unit may be the correct size....See MoreSummer Pruning when you have no winter
Comments (5)I think most Californians prune in January and February, which is (usually) their rainy season. I would think that would work for you too. If it's really hot most roses go semi dormant anyway. I would think that would be the best time for pruning. As Oldrosarian said, pruning will start new growth so maybe wait until towards the end of your rainy/hot season. They should start putting out good new growth as it cools down and dries off a bit....See MoreOne Devoted Dame
3 years agoHU-921909490
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3 years agoBeth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoHU-921909490
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3 years agoHU-921909490
3 years agoHU-921909490
3 years agoHU-921909490
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoHU-921909490
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Beth H. :