Yet another promix soil comparison!
Jan
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (74)
Monyet
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Promix: Cost and Wetting Questions
Comments (5)I am paying $26 dollars for the same promix bale, also at a wholesaler, so I think you paid appropriately. Remember, it is compressed in the bales, so you get a whole lot more in reality than you do from bags. I always do the "Wet it down in a big tub, then fill my containers" method" so I can not comment on spraying it down once it's in there. I'd worry about getting it evenly moist that way. But it sounds like with your rain moisture is the least of your problems! Do make more holes in the bottom if they seem too wet....See MoreMaguire's....to chill or not to chill? and Promix?
Comments (10)OK Chill temps lower than 45F slow growth ; lower than 35F growth stops; lowqer than 31F you get damage depending on how long and how low and humidity and soil moisture. It may only be the parrot red scary surface cells that froze and gethat brilliant red because oxygen gets through the cell walls of the epithelium that froze. The red is a reaction to air combining with a chemical in the sap. Dr. Alan Meerow discovered this. He is tops in hippeastrum , Director of the germplasm research station in Miami for the USDA. Because you need new roots your bulbs first thing and hipps don't produce new roots until after they bloom (usually) if they are in the bloom stage: plant them now. Since they need to grow roots and leaves and maybe flowers right now, I am giving them epsom salts. The wild sand and compost has all the fertilizer they need for first year or 2 with the depth of soil, 8", I have in my rectangular and round pots. Chamomille is a mild fungicide. Tea is a growth stimulator. In a test against plain well water hippeastrum seeds from the same pod were 25% larger with tea water than plain water from sprouting to 6 months. Chamomille tea brewed from a tea bag of chamomille flowers kills the group of fungi called damp off or wilt that attacks seeds when the stored energy runs out after furnishing the food to produce the first root(s), & leaf(s) and contains compounds that protect from wilt until it runs out like the in mother's milk. That is why you get up one day and your sprouts are eaten off at the soil line. I have used the following mixture on tomato seeds rain lily seeds etc. with excellent to 100% survival and recommended it to members of the International Bulb Society among others. 2 single serving bags of chamomille (flowers)tea and one tea bag any regular tea. Brew a pot of tea (I use a Mr. Coffee type). When it cools, pour it into 2 washed (including bottle cap and threads) 2 liter plastic bottles anf fill them with water. Mist it on top of planted seeds, bottom irrigate seed trays, and yes you can use it to float seeds. Print a copy of this formula. How did you tend to the mold traces on your bulbs? Since light and air kills it, I usually just peel & plant, maybe wipe it off with my thumb. I will make a separate post on timing hybrid bloom. Bill Warren E. Wm. Warren amstgrp@yahoo.com Amaryllis Study Group...See MoreWhat's the big deal about Pro-Mix??
Comments (16)Minnamouse - I posted this at the end of a different thread you posted but perhaps you didn't see it. Here's a cut & paste section, followed by a few new thoughts: "Minnamouse, if you had all that trouble with damping off you might really want to consider a good commercial blend. The reason I say that is because they are mixed to provide an appropriate level of moisture retention and trying to get that with your own mix could be a real challenge. I like Promix and Sunshine mix best and personally dislike Miracle Gro. Part of that is probably due to regional growing condition bias. Miracle Gro dries out way too fast for me here while the other two stay at just the most perfect moisture level for much longer times. I do think that Miracle Gro may have an advantage for people growing in wetter conditions. The same features that hurt germination rates for me and made planting out challenging would probably have been advantages in growing regions that got a lot of rain this year. If you are still working at getting good results with WSing, I'd make ProMix a first choice in areas where you usually don't have muddy gardens and Miracle Gro potting mix a first choice in areas where mud in the garden is common. (Sunshine mix is less readily available and more pricey.) I'd hold off on using home mixed mixes for anything but seeds you have in huge abundance where won't be upset if they don't grow. That's actually what we do - I use our home grown container mix for things like zinnias where I have many giant bags of seed available. When you have a load of surplus seed you can live with a potting mix that wicks water in a less than perfect way or that might crumble or break apart when you try to transplant hunks of seedlings." To specifically address your question today, in my opinion the biggest deal about using a purchased mix is that the moisture wicking and retention balance is better than anything you can put together on your own - and that can be VERY important in seed starting. My family likes to be very cost conscious. We grow most of our own food. We have to container grow our veg in five gallon buckets here because the local soil is pretty much just rocks, coal and a bit of clay. (Nice if you want to run a quarry, lousy for gardening!) Our growing & food producing containers are all filled with a home blend of compost with a little perlite. That's great for mature plants and not having picture perfect wetting and moisture retention is not a problem at that stage. Good enough is perfectly fine. But for seed starting and seedlings we only use Sunshine mix or Promix. Yes, it's more costly - especially when I WSed over 3600 containers of flowers and hubby indoor sowed over 200 tomatoes plants and about 50 each of peppers, eggplants, gourds, melons, beans and the rest of the stuff. Maybe I should also mention that hubby Pat's family has been commercial growers in England for at least 6 generations. They made all of their container mix (like you describe above) but bought in their seed sowing mix by the pallet load. In his professional growing experience, and our personal home growing experience it is worth the cost to buy a good seed starting mix - and save home mixes for once the plants are past the seedling stage. That's how we do it because we consider the cost of seed and we want strong seedlings and high germination rates. That's also why I won't use miracle gro here - although if I was in waterlogged Pennsylvania this year I'd probably appreciate it's moisture wicking profile better. I hope this helps. I don't know if you've seen any of my other posts but if you have you probably know that I've got very similar views to you about getting really good value for your money when you are gardening. To me there is such incredible value in planting a seed and getting a healthy strong seedling - ready to grow big and strong, provide flower or food, and then provide seed for future years. I just can't afford the cost of seed, time lost, and food lost by seed starting in a homemade mix - and that's even with having my own English gardener (with decades of growing experience) right here and his elderly mother(with even more experience) just a phone call away. I hope I don't sound like I'm just a member of some kind of Pro Mix fan club. I'm not. I like anything that gets me top notch results. That just happens to be that pricey Pro Mix and Sunshine mix. Lynda Here is a link that might be useful: This is why I seed start in Promix or Sunshine mix...See MorePro-mix HP
Comments (17)I am using 5-1-1. It costs me about $3.00 per cu-ft. The most expansive component (1/7th) is perlite. About 70% is pine bark @ $2 per cu-ft. Now, promox on the other hand is better than 70% peat moss. So its advantage is more moisture retention and with that comes fertilizer retention. You can have a modified version of 5-1-1. Make it 3-3-1 (3parts pine bark, 3 parts peat moss, one part perlite) I modify mine by adding 1 part DE (UltraSorb) and reduce pine bark by the same amount. So I have: 4-1-1-1. You can do it as 3-1-1-2 (2 parts DE). one pond of dry DE absorbs one pound of water, EXACTLY. And unlike peat it does not get mushy nor it will cake. After it is saturated it will work like perlite, providing drainage. AND it won't fall apart. Great stuff. The most difficult part of making 5-1-1(or its variation) is to find the right pine/fir bark fine. I made 2 barrel full of it this season, with less the one bale of peat moss($11), one bag of UltraSorb ($9), and one bag of perlite ($18). I keep saying this: there is no secret in the medium other tha its moistutur retention and drainage property. Plants grow with nutrients that you add to the medium. That medium can be water, sand/gravel, bark, old fashion garden soil( as long as it does not get compacted). Edit: Another property of a good medium is to provide AIR for the root system. That is what a soggy soil lacks (no air = oxygen) causing fatal damage. Plants do not die because of too much water but because of too little or no air. Otherwise hydroponics could not work if it were because of too much water. Yet another reason why fabric/smart bags work better than plastic container; MORE OXYGEN. This post was edited by seysonn on Thu, Jun 26, 14 at 1:17...See Moretropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years agoJan
3 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agoAmy (montreal, canada)
3 years agoSilica
3 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
3 years agoJan
3 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years agoJan
3 years agoJan
3 years agoJan
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJan
3 years agoJan
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoHOWARD Martin
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agoJan
3 years agoHOWARD Martin
3 years agoJan
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agoJames (zone5b)
3 years agonulesm
3 years agonulesm
3 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
3 years agoHOWARD Martin
3 years agoJan
3 years agoLemon Lime Orange Zone 6a
3 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
3 years agoHOWARD Martin
3 years agoJan
20 days agoJan
19 days ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESGarden Myths to Debunk as You Dig This Fall and Rest Over Winter
Termites hate wood mulch, don’t amend soil for trees, avoid gravel in planters — and more nuggets of garden wisdom
Full StoryARCHITECTURE3 Home Design Solutions to Challenging Building Lots
You don't need to throw in the towel on an irregular homesite; today's designers are finding innovative ways to rise to the challenge
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Find the Right Native Plants for Your Yard
Find plant maps, sale sites and guides that make going native in the garden easier than ever
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES4 Ways to Break the Rules in Your Garden
For a more creative landscape design, take a different approach to planting
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESStaging vs. Decorating: What's the Difference?
Unlike decorating, staging your home isn't about personal style — it's about creating ambiance and appeal for buyers
Full StoryGREEN BUILDINGHouzz Tour: See a Concrete House With a $0 Energy Bill
Passive House principles and universal design elements result in a home that’ll work efficiently for the long haul
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES4 Reasons Not to Rush the Spring Garden Cleanup
There are many positives to staying out of the garden, especially for wildlife
Full StoryMOST POPULAR8 Great Kitchen Cabinet Color Palettes
Make your kitchen uniquely yours with painted cabinetry. Here's how (and what) to paint them
Full StorySUCCULENTSGrow a Garden of Succulents for Easy Beauty
Low-water plants in a wide range of colors, shapes and sizes? Sign us up — and check out our faves here
Full StoryCURB APPEALModern Materials: Copper, Architecture's Natural Beauty
The rich patina is just the beginning — copper for home exteriors is strong, shapable and highly recyclable
Full Story
Laura LaRosa (7b)