>>read the bible... it didnt answer my questions on bringing back a chemically damage lawn, or what the consequences of applying a super shot of nitrogen would do to an already damaged lawn. It doesn't really deal much with incidental problems (because there are so many). In this instance, over-application of Image caused some chlorosis. Whether it's blocking photosynthesis or chlorophyll production or iron uptake, I don't know, but the fact that the company recommended Ironite suggests it's blocking chlorophyll or iron uptake. Time is really the only cure for that, plus treating the symptoms. Milorganite will help with that, although it's not going to be the magic cure it can be on chlorotic lawns that aren't otherwise stressed. Flushing with water might help, but it takes quite a bit--usually three inches per water application, repeated several times in a reasonable time span. Three inches of water is fifteen hours with a standard oscillator (variable timings with an in-ground). Since I can't find if Image is soil binding or water soluble, whether it'll help at all is unknown. Super-shots of nitrogen are handled fairly well by Bermuda lawns, that I know, but there is a definite limit. On damaged lawn, I'd target 1 pound per thousand of nitrogen (synthetic) or slightly less and not stress it--but I'd also keep an eye on it and feed it again any time past the 2 week mark if it looks like it wants more to eat. Or, less but more often, roughly the way people eat when sick. I'm not a fan of excessive nitrogen on any grass at any time as that excess tends to end up in the air as an NOx compound or in the water supply, causing eutrophication in streams and lakes. I have no objection to normal amounts applied more often if the grass or gardens require it--air and water escape is far lower in that case. Still, there are cases where breaking that rule makes sense. A stressed lawn of any species isn't one of them, it's not going to be a super-heavy feeder at any particular instant, although to restore it feeding more often will probably be required to keep a steady flow of N into the grass and encourage it to spread into any dead areas. Bermuda is very happy to spread aggressively in warm weather when well-fed, so keeping a constant flow for the rest of the summer will certainly help with that.

Thanks so much, paintguy! I think my problem may have been that after I cut in with a brush, I painted most of the ceiling with a 1" nap roller on an extension pole. ( I did get the good Purdy one.) I will say it got heavy fast, so I probably applied different pressures. Then I'd go to the ladder and shorter poles. And then, then next day to finish I used a 3/4" roller, and for touch-ups I'd grab a brush. As far as the paint not sticking by the crown, I suspect the old caulk may have been silicone? Glad to hear I don't need scaffolding! And I would call in a pro, but I thought this would be an easy enough job that I could tackle myself, and save the pros for actual construction stuff. I guess a pro would have finished long, long before I ever will, tho! So...maybe different applicators and different pressures are the problem? Sometimes in certain light it almost looks like I used different sheens, but it's all the SW ceiling paint, Wool Skein. I think I'll call this the first coat, and go over it all again with the same roller nap! Again, thanks so much!

Found this picture today and i absolutely LOVE it. could I do something similar in my livingroom? what colors? the window doesn't have direct light shining through. maybe add something else to what i already have? OK, I know I'm going to take a beating for this from someone, but, IMO, the current window treatments are just not right for the window and the room (what I can see of it), and no amount of fussing over them will change that. The fabric is a ho-hum color and is too delicate for the mass of sofa in front of it, and there isn't nearly enough of it. Valances and jabots and tassles look wonderful when they are carried off well and are in the right room. They tend to be a more formal look and generally need more formal-type furniture to complement them. And when done well, as in your inspiration photo, they tend to be pricy because they take a lot of fabric and more workmanship. When you try to scrimp on the amount of fabric, you lose the look altogether. If you are on a tight budget, limiting yourself to stationary panels on the sides without a valance would allow you to get more a more substantial fabric and more of it. A heavier fabric would balance out the sofa better, and simple panels without the valance would seem to be a better fit with the sofa.

Never plant the tall Mexican ruellia in Houston! ( I like the short clumping Katy ruellia.) That plant is the curse of my garden. My master gardener friend gave me on purple and one white. the purple has marched more than 1/2 way around the fence borders. She failed to mention that she pulled them all the time and her many paved pathways helped to keep them contained. I sprayed it with Round Up and it shot seeds at me and made popcorn sounds. (That hurt, too!) They grow 7 ft tall in up through my lemonade honeysuckle vine and laugh at me over the tops of the suburban fences. I have pull and paid others hundreds of dollars to pull and they keep coming back, since they also send out awful runners. This plant survived the poison ivy and brush killer and Ground Clear, as did wedellia. The wedellia was gone for three year, cam back and jumped to another bed. I would pour gasoline on them both if I knew that would kill them. The wedellia roots where it the leaf nodes touch the ground and smothered my daylilies.