The wiring is insulated with cloth rather than plastic coating with makes them old but does not prove that they are the original. I think an electrician would be able to tell from the wiring. I agree to change them if you do not like them but to keep them stored with the house. When I bought my home, I found a sconce stored in the basement that exactly matched the hanging chandelier in the dining room. It was really ugly - just like the chandelier. Now I have the chendelier stored next to it in the basement. LOL. Maybe the next owner will discover them and be delighted when they "restore" the home.

OP here. My roof is in great shape so I won't be replacing it any time soon plus it has some interesting curves to it so adding rigid foam and sleepers over the roof deck might be more trouble than its worth. See pic: I do have the gable vents and the giant vent over the porch so I think ventilation in the front part of the attic (the shorter knee wall in the original picture) is ok. I think what I've decided to do is to add soffit vents on the back of the house (where there are no intake vents). Then I'll install a foil radiant barrier on the bottom of the roof deck in all of the accessible attic areas. I will pull down the wood paneling stuff, add rigid foam between the studs in the knee wall as well as the roof rafters, and install sheetrock over it all. Its all 2x6 so I should be able to get 4 inches of foam (R20 or so) in there while still leaving a 2 inch gap for air flow under the roof. I found a guy on craigslist selling 4 inch closed cell foam at 75c per sqft. I've also thought about being cheap and just using fiberglass batts (r16) with baffles on the roof deck instead of foam. That would cost r4 but save quite a bit of money. So long as I make sure I've got a good air seal with the sheetrock and plenty of ventilation, after that, its all down to r value right? I've also essentially given up on the thought of spray foam on the roof deck. That would cost in the neighborhood of 5k plus the cost of ripping off and reinstalling the sheetrock.

M, So great to hear your take on form following function. I think we share a practical streak. On the one hand, I'm not a preservationist, on the other I do want to be true to the spirit of the house. I'm not aiming to make it something its not, and I don't want to "over improve" either. I agree that its entirely possible to "design a modern functional home and have the original vintage design-spirit prevail". In fact, thats precisely the balance I'm striving to achieve. In my situation, honoring the vintage design spirit means keeping certain elements intact: --the cottage windows --the china cabinet --the built-ins in the living room flanking the fireplace I'm not as attached to keeping the kitchen and breakfast room spaces separate as my partner is. In the spirit of cooperation and domestic harmony ;-) I've solicited feedback on how we could fit everything in the footprint of the kitchen proper, and posters to this thread stepped up admirably (THANK YOU!!) Reading the comments here has allowed me to feel more comfortable with merging the kitchen and the breakfast room--that this might be the right place to "modernize". Considering the two spaces as one is beginning to feel…well…more practical to me. Your point about it being possible to botch both the form and the function strikes a cautionary note---Sheesh, that would be awful. Aiming to avoid this, on both counts! Thanks so much M, for your always incisive comments.

the brick isn't the issue, the landscape is. Your hedge HAS to GO!! seriously. it blocks the front of the house and does nothing to enhance the yard. spend the money and hire a landscape designer. 90% of your curb appeal will come from that. consider adding some bricks to the cement steps, and flower beds along the side. you can round off the slope of the grass, remove your hedge, do some nice flower beds, a tree, etc. Think English style cottage gardens. roses, small shrubs, pots, (you need a landscaper person for this) the other 10 percent, the roof (I'd do a black or charcoal), replace those windows if you can (the glaring white just doesn't go w/this brick tudor) and try your Urbane Bronze on the trim. Normally these homes had wood doors. if you can't do that, then consider painting yours black or the bronze. I don't mind the black windows, and black trim on your mock up. Here's one similar to yours with a very dark trim and windows. (if yours aren't vinyl, paint them) more of a dark blue/charcoal color and a warmer slate-brown color roof. You could do a type of Schmear or heavy mortar treatment over the brick. And if you want a hedge in front, do the hedges like this! This is one of my favorite brick tudors. notice the door, the trim color and most of all, the landscaping. another one w/landscaping ideas. flower beds and your lawn will be the main appeal Similar style. this is a warmer charcoal roof, the windows and the trim are a medium warm gray color, as is the door. This landscape is rather blah Urbane bronze would be similar to this one. notice the wood door. if you want to paint the brick, go w/Romabio Masonry (not the Classico). Here's a brick tudor style done in a creamy white, soft greige trim/windows and aqua door. Notice the slate walkway. you could easily tile your cement walkway w/a flagstone or slate tile. really looks better than bare concrete. This before and after brick tudor-style was done w/a custom color in Romabio Masonry. look into Faux-Slate roof tiles. they work w/your style. comes in many colors http://www.create-enjoy.com/2021/04/home-tour-classic-brick-tudor-revival.html