olliesmom - thanks! I like the MW English Chestnut also, and we're using that to stain our wood floors. Since I wanted the doors to be darker, I used a custom mix of MW English Chestnut (1 part) and MW Dark Walnut (5 parts). To test the custom mix, I bought the small cans of each stain and a piece of knotty alder (cut into several sample pieces). Using a plastic spoon and paper cups, I made several stain mixes, starting with one part each and working my way up to the 5 parts of Dark Walnut to 1 part English Chestnut. Then I tried each mix out on the pieces of wood to see which I liked better. Once I found the right mix, we bought the larger quart sizes to stain the doors. After staining, we used several coats of a sealant (with UV protection) in a satin finish.

just fyi for anyone reading this use of sikkens cetol on simpson doors now voids the warranty. Rep says they were having issues in the north east.

I would try to stain the doors darker. But pine is hard to get the yellow out. Have you considered painting the pine doors a deep, rich color instead? Maybe black, charcoal, deep blue, etc? Or maybe painting them an off white or cream color. This would depend on the rest of your elements, of course. Photos would help with suggestions.

Alder is prone to blotching when stained. (Pine and especially maple are also difficult to stain.) Best to stick to lighter stain colors than a dark one like the OP's. Along with using blotch control treatment prior to staining and even toners. Toners are essentially tinted clear finish. Downside of toners is that toners will hide the grain of the wood. I agree that the cabinets suffered in the hands of a less than qualified finisher. Building & finishing are two separate art forms.