Applying poly over the paint really won't give you any added protection. It's not like the poly is any more durable than the paint itself unless you are really using some cheap paint.

Hi everyone as this subject seems to be something that a lot of folks with stairs are wanting to do, change or up grade is a big decision in time, effort, & O-YA money! I would only buy your rail & stair parts from a stair company or someone that knows how to install these parts. They can usually straighten you out over the phone when you become stuck on a decision that could cost you all the money you would have saved by buying your parts at a box store or anywhere that does not make their living installing what they sell. I would also check out this web site of a 30 year old comany to see some great pictures of finished styles of stairs & rail work. I also know they ship all over the US & if you fax a list of styles/parts (catalog names & or numbers) & a drawing (looking down at your plans/stair) of your stairs, they will help you get the right parts "the first time" & I would also ask if they have any styles that they are discontinuing or over runs if you are not too picky on styles. When you talk to a stair company they will tell you that there are no 2" x 2" balusters, that they come as 1-1/4", 1-3/4", and some 2-1/4" are the standard size. Newels are 3" x 3", 3-1/4" and box newels can be just about any size your pocket book can stand! Once you have figured out your plan of attack, like do I want the balusters to dowel into the treads, or do I want an elavated shoe rail that runs just above the tread nose at the pitch of the stair so the balusters fit into it and this will tell you and the stair pro how long the balusters need to be and then all you parts will start to fill in as you need them. Are you covering your old stair with new Oak Treads & if so, what about the rise change, will they still meet code in your area. Why spend all this $$$ if it does not knock your socks off when your done! Most Stairs/Rails are usually near or at the entry where your guests enter your home, you want it to set the feel of your home that it is a quality built home, so shady workmanship here is a NO-NO! You need to remember that there is a reason that more then half of the carpenters work on stairs, but only 10% know how to work on the rails system and if it's curved it's like only 2% that can do it in a timely mannor and make money doing it! Old Stair guy

Hi,Materials you need about 2 sacks of concrete, 4 2x4 simpson ties, one simpson post support to fit post 4x4 or 3.5x3.5, 2 bolts and nuts to fit post support. Measure height and square of post. Measure center of next post to the center of one to be replaced. Remove all staples in old post cut nails from rails to post.Remove post and dig out concrete keep the hole as small as possible Fill hole with concrete and install post support on center as measured. make sure the metal on the support are not against the rails or another way is the holes to support the post when installed are against the fence fabric. Install so the bottom of the post is a little above grade.Let the concrete set. If the bottom of the post is ok you might be able to use it again. When the concret is set install the post with the bolts and secure the rails using the 2x4 simpson ties. Good Luck Woodbutcher

Please, do not cut the switch covers. It looks to me like the molding you have was flat on the back, so they improvised and installed it at an angle, not vertically, right? The bottom sticks out further from the wall than the top does. They cut the miter right if they were going to install it flat, as it should be installed, but installed it at an angle coming away from the wall simply because when they nailed the top, snugging it up against the wall, the wainscotting pivoted it so the bottom of the molding was then floating in the air! So can you get a fingertip behind the bottom of the molding, between it and the beadboard wainscotting? Is the bottom of the molding even nailed? What Bozos! I agree that you should first find the professional to hire, show them what needs to be done, and have them either purchase the molding or tell you precisely the type and size of molding to buy.