If it's lost so many leaves and branches are dying, I'd bet there is some root rot. Re-pot as soon as you can, removing as much of the old soil as possible, and use a good, well-draining potting mix. Make sure to layer some small stones or pebbles in the bottom of the new pot before adding soil, to help drainage and to make sure that the roots aren't sitting in water collected in the saucer (I'm assuming you have one so that the office floor isn't ruined.) Remove any fruit and flower buds so that the plant's energy isn't put into them, but instead into recovering. I'm wondering if your office really is bright enough for a citrus? That might have led to the initial leaf drop, perhaps? I have a fairly bright window in my office, but I know it won't sustain a citrus. I grow several types of citrus in containers in NJ, including a calamondin. They are outside getting 8 hours of direct sun during spring and summer, and I overwinter them in a cool sunroom. They thrive and have masses of fruit each year. The calamondin is the least tempermental one I have and I let the soil dry between waterings almost to the point of wilt (and sometimes it has when I'm negligent). They like humidity, but not wet soil--I give them a misting when conditions are dry. There are many florists that know how to arrange flowers and plants, but know nothing about actually growing and caring for them. I've been in the position you are and that's why I don't trust anyone anymore -- I find it's best to find authoritative sites on the web when I get a plant I'm unfamiliar with. Not every florist or Home Depot clerk is clueless, but chances are...and the employees at my local Smith & Hawken are even less knowledgeable about the plants they sell (don't get me started...) I guess it's too late to ask for a replacement, but it's a shame since she supplied you with misinformation, so it wasn't your fault, really. I wish you the best of luck--please give an update on how things turn out.

@kirkhall and @mabel: The deal is that the 'run of the mill plumber' who doesn't read, who throws away the installation instructions, who doesn't think about the thickness of the cement board and tile, will quite possibly screw up this installion. That's what I've gleaned from the other blog posts. Now a thoughtful plumber will install it correctly. But I have to back up to my original statement that you get what you pay for. 40 years ago - these valves were $100. Now they're $150. Something got to give. After a month, the porclain on the shower handles cracked. Both the bath sink and the shower handles come loose all the time. I added lock washers - still come loose, Price Fister has sent me multiple ceramic cartridges - normally these should never wear out. The Monen single hanldle sink - after a year need a new cartridge, then the faucet was hard to turn - new O rings - then the side spray didn't work - needed new diverter - the POS never worked correctly after the first year. The plumbing suppier doesn't give a rat's a** about your fauct, they want what's easy for them. Just the fact that they don't offer any Grohe products shows that they aren't serious. I'm not saying Grohe is the best, but IMO you are being steered to the low quality, crap product - cause that's what they want to sell.

This should have all been handled in the prep. Was completely avoidable with the proper prep. But what we don't know (or understand) is why the shower walls were built out so far. One common approach would be to build jambs. Again, this is all part of the planning. Doubt the walls were that far out of plumb that you couldn't achieve a better result than you have. You should have been given your options before anything was done as what you have is not standard. There are so many ways to rectify this in planning. This stuff hurts my head.

Our friends have a rather long shower open at both ends. She said it was much like a cold wind tunnel unless she is under the rain shower head and she lives in Florida. We have a large enough shower that I usually leave the door open and only feel the cold during morning showers( Florida as well). Maybe a good supply of heat vents in the bathroom would help. I do remember that heat lights were installed in showers way back in the day. Hopefully you’ll find a good solution. If not, there’s probably a great way to put in a door in the future if it is too cold.