WB Marta, First a clarification - 5/16 and 7/16 refer to laminated glass which is two lites bonded either side of a plastic interlayer, those thicknesses are not the actual thickness of individual glass lites. 5/16" laminated glass consists of two 1/8" lites and 7/16" laminated has two 3/16" lites so that the 1/8" difference is really 1/16" x 2. Different glass thickness does not mean different frame thickness, it doesn't even affect the width of the reglet or glazing channel in the sash. Because the vast majority of glass that goes into the sash is going to be a dual pane package that will be the same width (or depth depending who you are talking to), even when different glass thicknesses are used by changing the width of the spacer between the two lites, the overall IG width doesn't change. In other words, if window company xyz has an overall glazing channel of 1" for their dual pane units, then that's what the IG unit has to fill. Depending on the window company the tolerance for the IGU width might be as little as 1/64". Available options might be two 1/8" lites with 3/4" space between, or could be one 1/18" plus one 1/4" with a 5/8" width spacer/airspace. Or if they were manufacturing an impact window with 5/16" laminated and 1/8" mono glass then they would use a 9/16" spacer to once again come out at 1", and so on. In your case Marta, you are being told 5/16 and 7/16 but are they selling a single laminated lite in a frame or are they going to be IG (dual pane) units? Either option is available in Florida, but IG is more common. This part is a bit more complicated..... The advantage of thicker laminated glass in an impact window has to do with wind resistance and potentially the DP rating. Simply thicker glass generally has higher load tolerance (wind and otherwise) than thinner glass, but thinner glass that has been heat strengthened or tempered has a higher wind loading tolerance than does non-heat treated (annealed) glass even when the annealed glass is thicker than the heat treated glass. Need to raise the DP of a given window? Temper the glass and it immediately goes up. What all that means is that if the 1/8" glass in the 5/16" laminated has been heat treated and the 3/16" glass in the 7/16" has not, then the thinner 5/16" heat treated laminated glass has substantially higher resistance to wind pressure and low level impacts than the non-heat treated 7/16" laminated product. However note low level impact resistance. There is no appreciable difference between 5/16 and 71/6 laminated glass when subjected to the 2x4 hurricane impact test requirement. Heat treating glass might protect from an errant baseball but the 2x4 doesn't even notice the difference, heat treated or not. The downside to heat treating is that it can introduce distortion in the glass, distortion that may even be unnoticeable in a single lite of glass can become quite noticeable when two lites are laminated together. I am not saying it WILL be distorted, far from it, just saying that the possibility is potentially greater. And most (but not all) distortion when it does occur is very mild and only visible at acute angles to the glass, often even affected by lighting conditions to see it. Marta as you move forward the first things that you need to find out are, a) monolithic lami or IG unit in the windows b) is the glass heat treated, either heat strengthened or tempered c) if an IG or dual pane, is the non-laminated (also called sacrificial) lite heat treated d) if monolithic lami what LowE coatings, if any, are used in the construction And all else being equal, monolithic can be okay and IG can be okay. Depending on location and application eat treated can be a good option, but non-heat treated might be just as effective. Coatings are a necessity, mono or IG, that one isn't negotiable.

Hi Summer, First, tell your contractor that his suppliers are full of pupu (and not the snack variety). Impact windows are not the same as "other laminated glass windows". I don't generally discuss specific manufacturers, but I do have a few thoughts to share concerning impact windows and their performance...and maybe a couple comments on the systems used by a few different manufacturers... As you know, impact windows are made with laminated glass, upgraded hardware, upgraded frames and other components, and all sealed in place with some of the strongest silicone (or other) adhesives on the market. Virtually all the major window manufacturers have impact products available. Some perform extremely well, others barely get by. Laminated glass is simply two (or more) lites of glass bonded to a plastic interlayer for strength. Laminated glass is no stronger against breakage than is the glass it is made of. Let me say that again - laminated glass breaks as easily as the glass it is made of. I mention that because many folks have the mistaken impression that laminated glass / impact windows wont easily break. They will break, but the glass adheres to the plastic interlayer and keeps the envelope of the home closed. There are four major food groups in the impact glass world (a few other minor ones as well) relating to the interlayers used to manufacture the laminates. First we have PVB or Polyvinyl Butyral. This is the stuff that is in the windshield of your car. It is relatively soft and very flexible, yet it is also tough and doesnÂt tear easily. This is probably the most widely used product in the impact glass market since it does great when impacted. It stops whatever hits it and stretches to absorb the impact (such as a persons head in a car accident). PVB is a good product and is the choice for many manufacturers. The second interlayer type is a hybrid of PVB with a layer of PET film between the PVB layers. This is a very tough product and it performs very nicely, but it can be a problem to manufacture and this product seems to be phasing out of the market  although a number of window companies still offer it. The third type of interlayer is called SGP or Sentry Glass Plus. This is quite a bit different from PVB in that it is very stiff and very tough. It is becoming something of the product of choice in some of the toughest applications (including some bullet and bomb resistance applications). It is also a bit more expensive expensive than PVB and may be overkill for some residential applications  but I think it is ultimately the best product on the market at this date. SGP is also becoming the product of choice for a number of the wood window manufacturers, although vinyl folks donÂt seem to be using it quite as much yet, but SGP seems to be growing in the vinyl market as well. One reason it is a little behind in vinyl windows is because SGPÂs rigidity tends to transfer an impact force to the frame of the window rather than absorbing the impact as does PVB. Some (but not all) vinyl windows simply arenÂt strong enough to take that forceÂwhile some vinyl windows do quite well with SGP. The fourth product line is the resin laminates  where a liquid resin is poured between two lites of glass and allowed to cure. I see liquid resin laminate as the "mom and pop shop" of laminated glass  although some larger manufacturers do use it. For the manufacturer it is cheap, it is easy, and it is an acceptable "mom and pop shop" product. Personally, I am not impressed with performance or longevityÂmy opinion only, but I wouldnÂt use it in my house. Most window manufacturers buy their laminated glass from a laminated glass manufacturer (which does make sense!)Âbut a few laminate their ownÂsuch as PGT (whom you mentioned). Among the major residential laminators (who are not window makers) are Cardinal, Old Castle, AFG, Arch Aluminum, Viracon and a few others. Of the bunch, Cardinal is almost entirely residential where the others mentioned are generally split between residential and commercial  most being primarily commercial. As a window company, PGT laminates most of their own glass and they are very good at it. They also outsource some laminated glass as well. Simonton currently buys their laminated glass from one (or more) of the vendors that I mentioned, but I believe that they are in the process of building their own line. PGT is primarily an aluminum window manufacturer. Their windows have done very well in the past few Florida storm seasons. I believe that they are by far the largest seller of impact windows in the southeast (and probably everywhere else)  but thatÂs a guess. When buying IG (dual pane) windows, some manufacturers place the laminate to the exterior, and some to the interior. This is often based on how the window is glazed. The manufacturer wants to seal the laminated glass to the strongest component of the window / sash. Generally this is the "fixed" stop versus the removable stop. If the window sash is "internally glazed" meaning that the removable stop is interior, then the laminate will be the exterior lite. If the window is "externally glazed" meaning that the removable stop is external, then the laminated glass is likely the inboard lite. This isnÂt 100% though. Some manufacturers prefer one version to another for other reasons  such as keeping the laminated lite inboard to stop broken glass from coming into the home when the "other" lite is broken. If the non-laminate is to the interior and the laminate is impacted, then that other lite will break and the glass shards will be inside the homeÂpotentially violently. This can be avoided by placing the lami inboard.

While it is not the norm, the salesperson is 100% correct in that every window will leak under those conditions. Windows are not designed to be bowls in correct. I would encourage your husband to look up the criteria and testing of windows. It will make more sense after that. Here is something that I copied and kept from Oberon. It summarizes quite a few questions for you. In terms of which route to go, some might recommend impact windows and the storm shutters if you really want to protect the home. Some of the benefit of the impact windows is that you need not be home to "activate or pull down" the windows because they are always in place. Here is what Oberon say.... DP and Impact Window Discussion The DP rating of a window or door is based on laboratory pressure testing in pounds per square foot or psf. Air, water, structural is a three-part test that determines much about a window's overall performance. Air infiltration is the first phase, water penetration is next, and structural is the third part of the test. Windows are tested for air infiltration simulating a 25mph wind or a 1.56PSF pressure load - air infiltration is treated separately from both water infiltration and structural and it is independent of the design pressure of the unit. Said again - the air infiltration rate in a window is not based on the design pressure rating of the unit. Both water penetration and structural testing, on the other hand, are based on the window DP rating. Water infiltration is tested at 15% of the design pressure and structural is tested at 150% of DP rating. What this means is that a window with a DP30 is tested for water infiltration at 4.5psf (15% of 30psf) while a window with a DP40 is tested at 6psf (15% of 40). A window with a DP30 rating should be able to keep out rain when it�s driven by 42mph winds and a window with a DP40 should be able to keep out rain when driven by 49mph winds...so while water infiltration is DP related - and air infiltration is not - the nature of air and water infiltration is different. The structural rating of a window is as much about the glass as it is about the frame and sash system. In order to get a higher DP rating the window manufacturer has to consider the thickness and possible heat-strengthening (or tempering) of the glass as well as the use of higher-end hardware and good quality sealants in the frame and sash system. But, interestingly, there is nothing in the structural rating that specifically requires that the unit be air-tight. A window can leak air like a sieve and still achieve an excellent DP rating. Likewise a window that is sealed tightly can have a lower DP rating but excellent air infiltration numbers. Obviously there are also many units that have both excellent air infiltration numbers and a satisfactory DP rating (relating to both structural strength and water infiltration). Simply stated, the relationship between DP and windspeed is -- "the ratios of the design pressures in psf are the square of the ratios of the wind-speeds in mph". A window with a DP30 is rated to a pressure level equivalent to a 110mph windspeed, but it is tested (for structural) at a pressure equivalent to 164mph. A window with a DP40 is rated to a pressure level equivalent to a 127mph windspeed, but it is tested (for structural) at a pressure equivalent to 190mph. So what does the DP50 in the "hurricane resistant windows" actually mean? Not much really. Certainly a DP50 is acceptable in many circumstances, but "hurricane resistant windows" is pretty much meaningless in that the window isn't impact rated - meaning that in the event of a major storm you would still have to either use shutters or plywood to protect your home. Impact (or "hurricane") windows are made with laminated glass, upgraded hardware, upgraded frames and other components, and all sealed in place with some of the strongest silicone (or other) adhesives on the market. Virtually all the major window manufacturers have impact products available. Some perform extremely well, others barely get by. Laminated glass is simply two (or more) lites of glass bonded to a plastic interlayer for strength. Laminated glass is no stronger against breakage than is the glass it is made of. Let me say that again - laminated glass breaks as easily as the glass it is made of. I mention that because many folks have the mistaken impression that laminated glass / impact windows won�t easily break. They will break, but the glass adheres to the plastic interlayer and keeps the envelope of the home closed. There are four major food groups in the impact glass world (a few other ones as well) relating to the interlayers used to manufacture the laminates. First we have PVB or Polyvinyl Butyral. This is the stuff that is in the windshield of your car. It is relatively soft and very flexible, yet it is also tough and doesn�t tear easily. This is probably the most widely used product in the impact glass market since it does great when impacted. It stops whatever hits it and stretches to absorb the impact (such as a persons head in a car accident). PVB is a good product and is the choice for many manufacturers. The second interlayer type is a hybrid of PVB with a layer of PET film between the PVB layers. This is a very tough product and it performs very nicely. The third type of interlayer is called SGP or Sentry Glass Plus. This is quite a bit different from PVB in that it is very stiff and very tough. It is becoming something of the product of choice in some of the toughest applications (including some bullet and bomb resistance applications). It is also can be more than a bit more expensive than PVB and may be overkill for some residential applications � but I think it is ultimately the best product on the market at this date. SGP has become the product of choice for a number of the wood window manufacturers. Although vinyl folks don�t seem to be using it quite as much yet, SGP does seem to be growing in the vinyl market as well. I suspect that one reason SGP is a little behind in vinyl windows is because SGP�s rigidity tends to transfer the impact force to the frame of the window rather than absorbing the impact in the glass as does PVB. While the best vinyl windows can handle the force of an impact when using SGP as the laminate interlayer, not all vinyl windows are strong enough to take that force. As a rule, aluminum windows tend to be pretty strong and can generally use any of the mentioned interlayer laminates. The fourth product line is the resin laminates � where a liquid resin is poured between two lites of glass and allowed to cure. I see liquid resin laminate as the "mom and pop shop" of laminated glass � although some larger manufacturers do use it. For the manufacturer it is cheap, it is easy, and it is an acceptable "mom and pop shop" product. Impact rated windows - or to answer your question - Dade County Approved windows are tested to the same air, water, and structural testing that I mentioned earlier, but in addition they are required to twice successfully stop an 8', 9lb 2x4 that is fired at the window at 50fps. If the impact window is able to stop the 2x4 - without penetration of the glazing - then the unit is subjected to 9000 high and low pressure cycles at up to 100% of the DP rating. If the window manages to stop the two 2x4 impacts, and manages to successfully complete the 9000 pressure cycles, it still has to operate in order to successfully pass the entire testing sequence and get the Miami Dade Approval. There are several advantages to using impact glass rather than shutters � not having to travel for hours to protect your home if you happen to be away for some reason is certainly a huge one � but beyond that: First, and best (and restating), they are passive protection�you don't have to do a thing to protect your house if a storm is coming. If you are out-of-town, the house is protected. Second, (and re-restating) they are passive protection...not just from storms, but also from unfriendly people who might want to enter your home when you are not there. Imagine trying to break thru a window or door that has been designed and built to withstand winds of over 150mph and at the same time to withstand impacts from a 2x4 projectile that turns plywood into kindling. Burglars look elsewhere. Laminated glass, used in impact windows, blocks 99% of UV light from entering your home and also acts as a significant sound barrier as well. Homes that are near airports that are remodeled for soundproofing are retrofitted with laminated glass for that reason. But, those homes generally use a much thinner version than is used for impact resistance. Unfortunately, looting is sometimes a problem after a major storm, and again that passive protection that impact windows gives you will help keep your belongings in your home long after the storm. The folks who do the deed are going to look at the homes that don't have that sort of protection. Also, those folks who use shutters or plywood to protect their homes are going to be living in a windowless cave as long as they are in the house with the coverings in place. Folks with impact windows don't have to do that. From a cost versus value comparison, IF you are planning to replace your windows anyway and you are planning to go with higher-end windows, then replacing your existing windows with impact units is cost-competitive with getting impact shutters. If you are not planning to replace your windows - except to install impact units - then the cost of window replacement can be significantly more than the cost of installing shutters.

Wow, thanks for the reply as it was very informative! I did find the other number, as it was in the upper left and upside down, whereas the others were in the lower right. Here is what I can make out at least on the casements: CIC Tempered 16CFR 1201 11 SGCC 1804 (not sure if that is an 8) and then the last few numbers are hard to read and look like 1/8U. Now I did notice that the casements numbers on the upper left numbers (the ones I just gave you) seem to be the same as the picture windows. However, the casement has a slightly different number in the lower right. Everything is the same except the CIG-1 4-97.6 is a little different than the picture windows. I could not find an ANSI number anywhere. Should I look somewhere else? If I may, can I regurgitate some of what you said in layman terms just to make sure I fully understand it? So the casements one you seem to feel is seal failure. I think I understood that pretty clear. But the picture windows, you seem to think that it was water intrusion from around the nail flange area by maybe them not being properly waterproofed and sealed with sealant and flashing tape when they were installed? I just want to make sure I understand what you are saying so I don't misinterpret the potential cause and I can make sure the next install is correct! Top answer your question, the previous owner had a company come back out at some point he told me and recaulk the trim boards around the windows to address the leaks. Now a little more info. So since I knew that was a potential problem, I had the trim boards fully removed, the nail flange were resealed with sealant, stainless screws, and flashing tape behind the tar paper, new trim boards, and new caulk around them with a drip cap up top. If I am correct, the sealant and tape was done on the top and sides and the bottom I think was done in a way that if water did get there, it could run out the bottom without being trapped (so I think they did not seal the bottom, but I could be explaining it wrong). So that is why when we pulled the interior trim (when we had a small fire) I was super surprised to find the window frame wood wet and mushy and this was a few months after the waterproofing we had done so something else is still happening. The framing around it was not wet. Just that bottom section A few more questions if you don't mind. One issue I seem to be running into is finding a manufacturer that can do a 78" high by 73" wide impact picture window (top, center window in the picture below). It seems like Anderson might be able to do it, but I am not 100% sure as I am getting different answers. The same with PGT, they seem to think they can do it with a masonry flange, but not a nail flange (72"x72" being their max with a nail flange), but then they said they may be able to do it with a FL impact approval, but not a Miami Dade approval, but they are not sure and they are confused. I have been waiting 4 days for their answer. It also seems CWS and Simonton can't even get to 72"x72" in impact. To change the size of that one window so it is not so high then changes the look of the house as you can see below. The black tar paper is coving a window from a fire. If I change the height of the top one, then that changes the spacing and all the others have to be changed to match. So finally, what brand would you recommend in this situation? My goal is to live another 25 years (I'm 51), stay here and not have to replace the windows before I croak. :) Since the last set did not last even 20 years, and this is going to be quite expensive (58 windows), I want to make sure I make the right choice. I was also told that vinyl loses it strength due to the sun beating on it after so many years and we really don't have enough data from the last set of "new generation" of vinyl windows to say if they will last longer than 20 years or not. Your thoughts? Also, I am not worried about price per se so as you mentioned HD, Lowes windows are out. Saving $20K on the windows and then doing it a second time at $150K a pop, is penny wise and pound foolish. I really appreciate your help! Best regards, Bob