Replacing original vinyl windows in stucco
I need to replace our original vinyl windows. One method I saw was to cut the nail flange and do a full frame replacement. Another was to chip out around the window exposing the nail flange and taking the whole window out then patch the stucco or trim it with AZEK (not sure how you'd water proof where the stucco was taken out though). Another method I've seen is to leave the frame and do retrofit with a stucco flange. Of course the window would be a little smaller but you wouldn't have to cut into the stucco. This method is most commonly done with aluminum windows but I've seen it suggested that you can still do it with vinyl if you put down some solid wood filler to support the window frame. Which of these methods is recommend?
I have two windows where there's a decorative raised stucco frame around the windows with a half moon window on top (see attached picture). I had Pella come out and give an estimate (wanted to get a feel for pricing and what method they'd use) and they said they would have to tear out the stucco around these two windows but the other windows they would be cutting the nail flange to take out the windows. The other windows stick out from the stucco about an inch. If I left the vinyl frame and did retrofit I'd have to cut that flush with the stucco.
I'm a fairly handy DIYer and I've been looking at windows from the Window e-store (windowestore.com). Their windows are made by Simonton. Any thoughts on those windows? I'm in Utah and I don't think I can get the brands like Soft-Lite or Okna here. Are there better windows that would sell to a DIYer?
Comments (10)
Greg
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Los Angeles Vinyl Replacement Window Shopping
Comments (5)I stumbled across this posting while learning a bit more about LowE3, and just can't walk away without a comment. First of all, I am part owner of a window company in the Seattle, Washington area. I'm not trying to drum up business, and we only do apartment and condominium buildings anyhow. For a house-package, I don't think that homeowners should be paying any more than $700 per window. That leaves more than plenty of money in the contractor's hands for a job well-done. If a sales'man' pulls out any weasel words like, 'this price is just for today.', or, 'ok, then how about this new lower price?', then tell them to 'GET the *&^% out of MY *&^% HOUSE!' These are not humans, and they are not redeemable in the context that they should be anywhere near your windows. They're crooks who'll sell out their own grandmothers if they can make a dollar. The same thing goes for anyone who stays for hours while trying to make the pitch and get you to sign a contract right then and right there. A decent contractor has respect, and an indecent one has no business being in business and should be told so at every stop. My other suggestions: Get a comprehensive list of the last ten jobsites of all non-crook companies, and go drive by them to make sure that their installation looks most-excellent. Check their insurance, bond, license info out at your state's government websites. Google their names and try to find any complaints about them. Please do your homework. Don't be too rushed to realize that you'll be living with your new windows (be they good or bad) for many years to come. -John...See Morereplacing aluminum windows with new constr vinyl in stucco
Comments (2)kenc 2006, It would be safe for you to remove the stucco up to about three to four inches around the stucco. You can either use a saw for a clean line or just use a hammer. The one thing you want to be careful of is tearing into the paper begind your lath when doing this, try your best to avaoid doing so. Tour also idealy going to want your lath to stay in good enough condition to use again when restuccoing. Once the stucco is broken out pull the few furring nails around the window and then pull the lath back so you can remove/install the window(s). If you have pierced the paper while doing your demo you can either slide a new piece behind the exisiting or if there are too many nails to do so just fill/cover holes with a caulk. Once you have your framing exposed (sills, King stud, trimmers and header stapple a six inch moist stop to the framming. 1st run a piece across the face of the sill and run it about 5 inches past each trimmer. Then run your vertical peices from top of header and down the face edge of your trimmers and king stud. Make sure the over lap on top of your bottom piece. Get the window ready for installation by running a liberal bead of caulk acros the header, trimmes and sills. Now put the window in. Once you've deternined the window is plumb and level nail it of using 3/4 inch galvanized roofing nails and then put your final piece of moist stop acrros the header and overlapping the top nailing flange. Pull your lath back into place and nail it tighlty and taught using furring nails. Once this is done you can mask of the window and begin to apply stucco. Always best to take the time of doing three coats, scratch, brown and finisc.... Good luck...See MoreWhat brand vinyl replacement windows? Best window for the money?
Comments (19)vic, if you are unable to locate one of the brands that are universally well regarded by pros, my best recommendation would be to take a close look at performance ratings. You can look at window performance the same way you look at mileage and horsepower when buying a car. U factor and air leakage are two big ones... There is a little complexity when it comes SHGC and others as the optimum numbers can vary based on climate, but the these ratings are a great guide either way....See MoreWindow replacement: wood vs vinyl options
Comments (4)Thanks, Todd. The Vytex quotes did include the exterior color of my choice My understanding is that the original trim will remain, but I may not be clear on the extent of the term "trim" The Marvin quote includes painting One additional issue is the upcharge for laminated glass on the Marvins--$500 per window. Is this reasonable? The Vytex quotes include laminated glass for 3 upstairs windows and any additional laminated glass is only $150/window. I think i would also like laminated glass for my 3 street-facing kitchen windows, so that is an additional consideration. Re whether it worth the money---I really don't have a sense of the aesthetic differences between them. I'm also concerned about reading that the Marvin windows only have a 10 year warranty on the wood, which seems to run counter to the claims that wood windows will last many years. Also, I can't find any air infiltration numbers on the Marvins. The U factor and other specs seem competitive with the Vytex....See More
PROWindows on Washington Ltd
3 years agoGreg
3 years agoThank you! Here are some pictures of the inside. You'll notice the mold. These windows are completely shot!
Eric Montoya
8 months agoWhat did you end up doing? I am in a similar situation and everyone wants to but the window out. I am weary about having any stucco work done.
Greg
8 months agoEric Montoya
8 months ago- PRO
Windows on Washington Ltd
8 months ago Eric Montoya
8 months ago- PRO
Windows on Washington Ltd
8 months ago
Windows on Washington Ltd