How do I clear large vine and roots from my back yard?
Christopher Hampton
3 years ago
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Single large Pin Oak in back yard surrounded by grass.
Comments (7)Sorry to hear about the confrontation with the neighbor. It's always good to have those survey markers put in so everything's clear from the start. But that's all in the past, so I hope your neighbor will calm down soon. We have a lot of those large oaks in our neighborhood, none with the classic shape, but it does give a nice dappled shade in which to garden and relax. The mulch is a good idea, but I'd like to see a grouping of plants there under the tree, sort of drawn out so they look natural - you can use understory trees, shrubs, perennials and bulbs. The following are listed as thriving best in fertile, humusy soil with good drainage and light shade (4-6 hours of sun) and are also deer resistant (but remember that deer will eat just about anything if hungry enough); those with an asterisk can take more shade. A lot will depend on whether that oak is "limbed-up" and the amount of dappled sunlight coming through the canopy. Understory Trees: Amelanchier* (serviceberry), eastern redbud, witchhazel Shrubs: Caryopteris, Japanese Plum Yew, daphne*, grape holly, leucothoe, pieris*, skimmia japonica*, snowberry Perennials, biennials, bulbs, etc. Monkshood*, columbine, jack-in-the-pulpit, astilbe*, baptisia australis, boltonia, brunnera*, northern sea oats*, cimicifuga*, corydalis*, dicentra*, digitalis purpurea, ferns, euphorbia, filipendula (meadow sweet), sweet woodruff*, hakonechloa macra (golden variegated hakone grass), helleborus*, blue oat grass, daylily, candytuft (iberis sempervirens), siberian iris, Virginia bluebells* (mertensia virginica), monarda, forget-me-not (myosotis alpestris), daffodils, mondo grass*, pennisetum, polemonium* (Jacob's ladder), pulmonaria* (lungwort), rodgersia, celadine poppy*, tiarella*, tradescantia, trillium, rhubarb. Groundcovers: ajuga reptans* (bugleweed), lily-of-the-valley*, spotted deadnettle*, pachysandra*, obedient plant, mayapple, As you can see, your options are rather limited ;-) Pieris is one of my favorites - evergreen, early flower clusters, quite hardy and pest & disease resistant when grown in at least partial shade, many varietes now from which to choose. Wouldn't be without those spring bulbs. Tiarella blooms for at least a month here, and the dicentra eximia (fernleaf, or wild, bleeding heart) blooms all season except for the hottest part of summer. Polemonium and cimicifuga can give some height. Leucothoe is another favorite - evergreen, low maintenance, different varieties available. Amelanchier has many good attributes; it has lovely white flowers in the spring, followed by berries that the birds love, and some varieties have excellent fall color. If you get impatient for spring, consider a hellebore or two; they take a while to get established, but some varieties start blooming here in February and hold those blooms a very long time. As the sun moves across the sky, so moves the shade cast by the tree. Many shade plants appreciate morning sun and afternoon shade. Remember that anything you plant will be competing with the oak for nutrients and water, so, unless you pick plants that prefer dry shade, you'll want to compensate for that. Best of luck ... I think you could wind up with a lovely spot there ... you might even eventually decide to put a garden bench or a few Adirondack chairs in the vicinity....See MoreHow do I root clippings from Diamond Frost Euphorbia?
Comments (3)The link below provides information on Diamond Frost Euphorbia. According to the information on the site, it is hardy to Z10 but can be grown in colder zones and treated as an annual. I normally don't root cuttings to produce additional plants. I haven't found it to be a reliable method of filling my garden beds. I have enjoyed my purchased euphorbias, both the species polychroma and a purple cultivar 'Bonfire.' Is there anything I did/didn't do that has caused them not to root yet? Chances are you don't factor into the equation other than to be patient. If they're going to propagate they will. Here is a link that might be useful: Euphorbia hyperciciolia 'Inneuphe'...See MoreHow tall do Aspens get? Can I 'top' (clip) my Aspens? Root Q's.
Comments (8)Uh oh. That's a problem. 70' would look ridiculous. We have a fantastic arborist friend of ours. I think I'll have Bob prune them in that case. Another option would be to cut them down and start over. Unlike other trees, Aspens are really easy to take down without creating a danger to structures. I'm able to get 4' high sapling aspens in town for only $25 each. They put on two feet a year. We learned too late, but last year when we had them ground treated with a systemic that kills aphids, the guy said do NOT water them. They're like Gremlins (the movie). If they get water, they grow super fast. Thanks for the advice. Oh.. almost forgot; Yeah, when I said "top" I was thinking of just nibbling off the top one foot. Just enough to send the signal to the tree to stop growing up. I agree that taking off 5 or 10 feet would look really bad. - T...See MoreHelp! How do I stop this mess from growing back?
Comments (8)redbird, only a good stout lawnmower or maybe a brush hog used regularly will be the solution. You would need multiple applications of poison. Even then, nature abhors a vacuum and stuff will come back. Something will try to come back. If you are persistent, your efforts will give way to perennial grasses instead of the forest occupants. It takes time. Mowing and such will get easier over time if you are consistent. I do understand, tho. I must work the edges of the neighbor's properties, too. They don't seem to care, especially for the invasive poplar trees. I can't spray those because they are, essentially, roots connected to the 2 story trees on our property near and over the house. If I spray the saplings, I will weaken the main poplar trees and that might mean a crash on the roof during harsh weather. I carry shears, a hatchet and my husband bought me a commercial weedeater. bon...See MoreYardvaark
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoSeabornman
3 years agoChristopher Hampton
3 years agoBlueberryBundtcake - 6a/5b MA
3 years agopricklypearcactus
3 years ago
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