Thanks, loribee and CLBlakey! It turns out we'll need to modify some cabinets and also the apron on my granite counters (who knows what that's hiding) in order to switch out the appliances. The PO remodeled and actually blocked in the appliances when installing the floor and counters after. Crazy. I'm considering whether I want to spend the extra money to make these changes and just refurbish my existing cabinets or save up for a complete remodel next summer. If we remodel we can get an updated look and also address some issues with the current layout. Obviously, a big cost difference but I'm not sure about spending money now to modify what I have if I'm still going to want a full remodel within a few years. If I do paint my existing cabinets, though, I'm definitely leaning towards the Edgecomb Gray! Donna - I don't think I'll stain the cabinets because my kitchen is already so dark and I truly lust over lighter kitchens but thanks so much for the link!

I chose Edgecomb Gray for all of my main living areas. I first had SW computer match for the color, it wasn't spot-on, so i took the actual chip in and they color matched it by hand. It was very, very close. Maybe leans a tiny bit toward the beige side of greige than the BM sample, but that could've just been the difference in sheens. If you decide to go this route, I can post a pic of the formula from the can and you can have SW mix it up to see what you think. Other SW colors I found similar to Edgecomb Gray were SW Modern Gray and SW Wordly Gray.

Update: I visited our local SW store and came home with sample swatches from the Emerald Designer Collection, including Grey Heron. Indeed, it looks really close to Agreeable Gray (great suggestion dianeski!) I question if it has a touch more green showing up, but might be imagining it. Ultimately, I can't bring myself to use one of those colors for a large paint job without having a bigger sample—which are still unavailable—and I refuse to buy a "test" gallon. It's a bummer. SW Lunar Lite 9546 was also interesting. Those colors have a lot of potential! Also, our painter called and apparently is ready to start next week! A good two months sooner than projected, lol. I am now back to looking at SW Crushed Ice (LRV 66) and BM Shoreline (LRV 68). I did not previously mention Shoreline. It's a sample I tried a while back that someone had recommended. I had ruled it out for fear of it flexing too gray/lavender/pink in certain lighting. BUT. In our current southern light, it's a lovely, pale, barely there gray with a softness to it. I think either of these colors could work and compliment the BM Stonington Gray of our living room. It's a matter of figuring out what I can live with as the lighting/seasons change, because the look of the paint color will flex no matter what. Right now, our home is at its peak brightness, but everything looks gloomier during snowy Michigan winters—despite southern and eastern light. I recently mentioned liking BM Classic Gray and SW White Heron (and still do), but on brighter days, they have looked too washed out and blended in with our neutral upstairs carpet (though foyer floors are dark wood). Obsessing over this is ridiculous (though also a distraction from the serious current issues in our world). I'm sure any of the colors mentioned will look better than the dark, dirty taupe currently on our walls, lol. It's just a lot of money and I after hating the current color for so long, I want to get this right!

You need to understand that color is 3 dimensional, hue is only one part of the equation. The 90 degree hue at low chroma levels and light luminosity is just slightly orange (ish) yellow. See below where it is shown next to a neutral gray (upper left corner). Yellow is unique in that we don't see dark yellow (think about powder blue and navy). Now picture powder yellow and try to picture a yellow that would be comparable to navy. It goes to gold and then to brown. As we desaturate yellow it goes to olive green. You also need to understand that because the human brain ingests so much information we group the information coming into our brain and we automatically compare colors. Painting samples on your wall means that you are seeing the color in comparison to whatever color is currently on the wall. I suspect that you have a lot of greens in your space in addition to the green in the kitchen and possibly have a bit of green undertone in the wall color that you are painting over. I have the opposite problem as you do with Edgecomb Gray - it is far too yellow/green (looks like an old yellowed tooth). I have a lot of pinks, reds, purples including a large pink brick fireplace wall. The center blocks below are all Edgecomb Gray. Can you see why it turns yellow for me and fleshy orange for you? To test the colors you really need to be looking at the colors without the influence of your current wall color. Prime the wall white or use large white poster board behind the samples. Look at the colors next to all colors that are going to stay. (Flooring, trim, furniture). Edgecomb Gray will always have just the slightest orange tinge. It will probably never look good with your colors. Do you like how light/dark it appears (LRV or Luminosity)? If so you want to try some colors with similar luminosity and chroma, but increase the hue. Here are some I have in my file: My sister has a home with a lot of green undertones and if I were pulling colors for her home I would start with SW Sedate Gray, BM Hazy Skies and BM Paris Rain. Keep track of the LCH codes and note what you like/don't like. Best of luck - let us know how things work out.