Paint match & edge strip for Ikea Axstad cabinet fronts
Amy
4 years ago
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Amy
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Not a dutty IKEA super hack , but custom door/drawer fronts
Comments (24)If I were you, I would go with the birch/beech interiors rather than white. My kitchen cabs are birch/beech, and the cabs in the laundry room are white. The wood-look wears better IMO. Some of the white interiors and shelves also have a nubby texture that shows dirt a lot more. Unless you are specifically after a more mod contrasty look like Gaucho, I would think the wood would blend a bit better with creamy coffee (dark?) paint. Here's a pic of my wood interior together with the painted white doors. You cannot see the birch at all when the doors are closed, even when you're standing very close. My doors came from Advantage, and I got the factory-finish paint which was well worth the money. Installed 3.5 yrs ago, and today I have no chips or wear or anything, and they are very easy to keep clean. The few small strips of wood that I added later (around micro and oven drawers) and painted myself - on those, the paint has chipped and rubbed off a little. Factory paint = worth it. Advantage did my doors, drawer fronts, all filler pieces, cover panels, trim. l did have to give them exact specs (which I still have btw including spec drawings for hinge placement etc - email me if you want them). And I specified small tolerances between everything (I think 1/8"). I think you'll find that you won't even want or need edge-banding. I used it on 2 cabs, and that was only to cover the rough edge left on a deep cab that was hacked down. It was a bit of a pain to apply (especially on already installed cabs) and doesn't really look that nice (but it is better than rough particle board). I certainly wouldn't bother with a whole kitchen just to change the color of the cab edges, when the correctly spec'd doors already do a perfect job of that. This post was edited by jenswrens on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 16:32...See MoreRecommendations for Ikea custom fronts?
Comments (8)We just ordered our fronts from Scherr's last week. (Their website is terrible, but I've only heard good things about them, and I've been pleased with dealing with them so far.) You can order a finished sample door from them. If you are considering them, order a sample door right away. That is my only complaint, the samples take a while to receive, especially if you want to see it finished. We are getting a Shaker style door/drawers in soft maple. 19 doors, 19 drawer fronts, cover panels, and deco strips. The total cost is going to be $8000. The unfinished fronts are actually very similar in price to buying doors from Ikea. Finishing the doors in white is going to be $3500+ of the price and shipping/packaging is about $1000 of the price. The lead time right now is about 7 weeks I think. (Again, the finishing is the part that makes things slower and more expensive.) Our finished sample door looked great though, so we are hoping it is worth it....See MoreHelp please: How to install IKEA deco strip at top of cabs
Comments (52)@tc9876 we have 8' ceilings and planning the Ikea upper cabinets would be MUCH easier if we had a few extra inches. We prefer the full 40" uppers, but we also want crown moulding and a light rail. Additonally, we also want the space above the counter to be slightly higher than the standard 18" (certainly no smaller than that standard). We're probably going to have to settle for 30" uppers that won't go all the way tot he ceiling if we want all of these things....See MoreIKEA Cover panels and filler strips or DIY?
Comments (17)When it came to our IKEA/Barker kitchen, I have a mix. The exterior of our island and exposed side of the fridge was wrapped with MDF shiplap, which we got from a big box store and painted ourselves. For the toe kick, our plan is to start with IKEA’s Lerhyttan line (and their decorative feet), and build from there. We need to test paint, and see how it looks over the existing finish. The benefit of using a stock IKEA toe kick is that it installs easily with their feet, so if we can make it work, we want to. As far as side panels and filler... well, I’m torn. I would lean slightly toward Barker, but only if you have a large enough order to qualify for free shipping. Otherwise, I think the price of shipping would skyrocket, because the pieces are so big. The benefit to using them would be that they would match your doors... the paint would adhere the same, the thickness would be comparable, etc. If you use IKEA panels/fillers, the slight downside would be a question of whether they will take the conversion varnish the same as the bare doors. I wouldn’t be opposed to building using raw lumber, either. Which isn’t super helpful, I know, but I wouldn’t rule anything out. I think they all have pros/cons. (And I think it’s ludicrous to expect $8-$12K. I’m about $2k, and I have a very large kitchen.)...See MoreUser
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