An old post, but I was looking for similar, so thought I'd post what I've done in case it helps others in the future that come across it. I started with Armenian cukes in an Aerogarden, and didn't have high hopes they'd transplant outside well. This is what it looked like at transplant time, and I didn't harden off before moving to outside in the yard - http://www.gthomson.us/projects/landscaping/armenian-cucumbers-1.jpg That same plant is now here 5 weeks later - it's the one of the left - http://www.gthomson.us/projects/landscaping/cukes-05302016-2.jpg I planted 5 more on that 3' wide trellis - definitely too many. #6 didn't make it so I put in a Rattlesnake pole bean there on the right. The cukes and pole bean do seem to like each other and they both seem to be helping to support each other and using each other for structure wrapping tendrils around each other. The pole bean vines are definitely more delicate and smaller leaves. And there's a cantaloupe plant in there, too, that isn't obvious - replaced cuke #2. Next year, I'll add another tree stake, and another 3' wide trellis. And I think I'll put one of each on each trellis - armenian cucumber, rattlesnake pole beans, and some kind of cantaloupe. The above pictures are South-facing, with the sun coming up to the left. Did I do this backwards with the big leaf cukes on the left, and small leaf bean on the right? Or does the bean plant need less sun to do well? Given this 3' wide trellis, and wanting to put an armenian cuke, canteloupe and some type of pole bean - what should the timing be on planting directly outside, and in which order, so they work well in a companion kind of way? Also, for what it's worth... my pooch does seem to like to pee on that left cuke - this is Chipper my pooch amongst some Chives - http://www.gthomson.us/projects/landscaping/chipper-chives.jpg Is there some reason that would be giving that left cuke more of what it needs to grow so much bigger?

Update that marigolds and nasturtiums without flowers did not repel the svb,neither did my homemade concoction of tobacco, redpeppers, black pepper, vegetable oil, and dish soap. It rained a few hours after I applied it, today new eggs all over them. I'm giving up organic at least with the svb, trying stuff with methoxychor, or best I've heard yet is this: "A second planting of summer squash made in early July will mature after adult borers have finished laying eggs. " Another nice suggestion: "Mulches are known to harbor squash bugs" http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html "Iowa State University Organics Research Program conducted trials of various control methods for squash bug and squash vine borer. Researchers found that mulching with newspaper and hay, combined with tightly secured row covers on the plots (a level 2 control), provided very effective control of both weeds and squash bugs in pumpkin (C. pepo)Âespecially in the wet season of 2002.(4, 5) The row covers apparently excluded squash bugs, preventing them from entering to lay eggs. Gauze row covers (e.g., ReemayÂ, AgriforceÂ, AgribonÂ, TufbellÂ) [Section 205.206(b)(1),(2),(3)] physically exclude pests and prevent them from reaching the plants in large numbers. Preventive strategies have become more important with recognition of A. tristis as a probable disease vector. Hand picking and trapping of A. tristis, or slitting each vine to remove the larva, in the case of M. satyriniformis, represent attempts to control pests after they have begun rearing another generation in numbers sufficient to cause economic damage and pest buildup. Such labor-intensive controls may be uneconomical for large plantings." "Some products acceptable in organic vegetable production that are effective against squash bugs include diatomaceous earth, sabodilla, and neem oil. Growers that anticipate using materials to control heavy pest infestations must list these materials and the circumstances for their use in their organic systems plan. This plan must be submitted to and approved by the organic certifier before the producer uses any material." What is a sabodilla? I found a tree by that name, is it the same thing? Here is a link that might be useful: svb info

A suggestion for those using bamboo/wooden stake teepees. Using an electric drill make a row of holes along one side of each pole. Five holes in each pole should be enough. Now, screw cup hooks in each hole. Set up your teepee and then wind nylon string, starting at the top, around the outside of the teepee giving it several wraps around each cup hook and secure the string to the bottom of one pole. This process strengthens the teepee, gives tendrils some climbing support and allows you to secure errant vines/tomato branches firmly with whatever you use for tying purposes.

Teepee? just use any number of sticks/poles all the same length, 1.5 to 2 metres, ( and same diameter, approx.) Starting with 2, cross them about 30 cm from the top end and bind with synthetic cord ( modern "hayband " is fine..) Them add 2 more to make a self supporting tapered frame.. continue to add until the poles are between 20 -30 cm apart near the base.. don't overdo it.. you can alter the design later. Push the lower ends into the soil far enough so the whole frame doesnt move. I don't think pumpkins or cukes are appropriate for this sort of support but certainly climbing peas and beans will be very happy to cover it. If you want to have pumpkins on a trellis it only needs to be low.. but they will climb great heights if they want.. but at the cost of the crop. For a couple of years I let mine wend their merry way up through a large, dense lemon tree but the fruit was only average sized. I have today just made a 1.5 metre high wire mesh trellis along 2 sections of our colourbond fence for just the sole purpose of growing small pumpkins ( Butternuts are great..very prolific, heaps of punks and they store really well..) as well as rock melons, watermelons and various cucumbers. all of these do not roam far from the plant but they do like their owbn share of sunshine, hence the vertical support. They will also mix in well together although the butternuts have large leaves so best given their own section. Last summer I planted Lebanese cucumbers at the foot of my bean trellis and guided them up it a bit , with some twine,( growth was not more than half a metre) and was rewarded with a constant, fast growing crop far better than ever before. On the subject of trellis.. We had a 2100 litre (5000 gal) plastic tank installed a couple of years back ( to supplement our drought restricted mains water) and a year ago I decided to run 100mm square wire mesh all the way around it, using pine decking boards to keep it away from the tank and just wired the whole thing in place without screwing into the tank at all.. I planted several types of berry vines around it and they have flourished.. It was a chance sowing of some rockies at the base that showed me how well they ( and water melons) love the full exposure to the sun.. I never thought I could grow these succesfully in central Victoria. (Photos available if anyone interested..) So there you go..hope all this helps or is of interest.