@David thank you so much for your reply! I've shut the power off to the hot water heater. I turned the tub on to let it run for a little but noticed that the pipe connecting the water heater to the wall started steadily streaming down the wall. I believe this is the water leaving the tank to the tub. The plumber noticed a small drip the first time he came out and fixed it but then it was dripping again when he came back out. No hot water came out of the faucet.

I'm going to call another plumber I've used (unrelated to the home warranty company) for a second opinion. If I do need to replace it I'd like the warranty company to cover it if at all possible. The plumber that came out said it wouldn't be covered because of the "electrical surge" and quoted me $1,700 (after a $400 discount) which included switching some copper connector pipes to stainless. I'm in Houston, TX.

I'm not sure how old the unit is. I don't think it looks too old. The warranty sticker/plate is gone and I don't have any extra information. I bought the house just over a year ago.

This is a not uncommon problem with electric water heaters.

You will need to replace the water heater and the plumber they sent out is incompetent.

The bottom element of the water heater is covered in lime from hard water. the element overheated and then it burnt out. You have a thermostat that doesn't break both lines of the current, just one. The element is shorting out through the lime and the result is that it's "on" continuously.

Replacing the element won't work - there's too much lime in the bottom of the heater.

This has nothing to do with a "surge" and it was all predictable from the time the high limit shut down and you were told to reset it.

Replace the heater.

BTW: Would you take a photo of the heater. I'd like to see the T&P valve. It should have opened up.

@Jake The Wonderdog thank you for your help! I've attached a picture of the hot water heater. I believe the T&P valve is at the top. It has been in the flat position this whole time. I don't see any other valves.

I was able to reach the electrician that came out yesterday. They are submitting their paperwork to the home warranty and referring it back to the plumber. I also scheduled an estimate with a different plumber.

I just keep getting bounced around and don't seem to be making any progress. I guess the hang up is that I think the WH caused the problem not my electrical system and the warranty should cover it. I just need them to confirm/agree the source of the problem is the water heater so they'll replace it. But I'm reaching out for quotes to prepare for paying out of pocket. I will pay for it if I need to. I just don't want to have to pay simply because I'm getting the run around or the people they sent didn't do the job fully/correctly. Which you and DavidR seem to confirm.

Do I need to do anything else while waiting for them to come back out?

I agree with Jake, but I will add that the elements and thermostat are replaceable. But it is not cost effective after a certian age which we assume you have exceeded. So a new one is in order.

If you've turned off the power, you should be fine for now.

You could visit/call HD/Lowes and see what they would charge to install a new water heater. Probably $500 for the unit and $400(?) for labor. Maybe.

I have two appointments scheduled for estimates today. One is with a plumber the other is through Home Depot. I'm also still trying the home warranty route. But they're "having unplanned system downtime. Please call back". (Sigh)

So an electrical "surge" wouldn't damage the water heater alone. I assume there's no other evidence of an electrical surge such as a lightning strike. There are no damaged electronics, appliances, etc. other than the water heater. Any comments about a "surge" were entirely speculation without any supporting evidence - and that's what I'd tell the insurance company.

Look, this is a completely known failure scenario for electric water heaters.

The reason it's a replacement is because the root cause of all of this is almost always significant lime build-up in the bottom of the tank. When the bottom element gets covered in lime then the element burns out. Sometimes it physically breaks or burns through. When that happens it can short to ground (through the lime) and run continuously (which is what happened in your case). That's why the water was so hot.

As support for this theory we estimate the age of the water heater. If it is older than 6 years, I wouldn't question that lime was the root cause. If it's newer than that, it could be questionable.

So, let me be clear about some things:

Home Insurance companies try to do the absolute minimum. Don't let them skate on this.

They sent out an incompetent plumber who gave you bad advice to keep resetting the high temp shutoff and made a really bad call on the root source of the problem as well.

There is typically one operational control and two safety devices on any system like this (thermostat is operational control, high temp cutoff is safety #1, T&P valve is safety #2).

The sound you heard was probably water exiting the T&P valve. That's the last safety device before significant damage happens. That means that one operational control and one safety has failed. You will be fine while the power is off to it but don't mess around with this - just replace it.

Just a tip: @weedmeister is correct:

"You could visit/call HD/Lowes and see what they would charge to install a new water heater. Probably $500 for the unit and $400(?) for labor. Maybe."

So you need a standard 40 - 50 gal electric water heater (whatever will fit the physical space). They cost about $500 + install $400 depending on where you live.

You don't need a Bradford White (what's there) and you don't need anything more expensive than what I linked to. It will be tough for an independent plumber to beat Home Depot / Lowes and their installer.

Yes, keep after the Home Insurance company - even if you can only negotiate a partial reimbursement (they should pony up for the entire thing).

I've never seen an electric water heater with a single thermostat. All I've worked with have had one at each element. The top one heats the water in the top of the tank for fast recovery. When it's satisfied, it transfers power to the lower element and its thermostat to heat the rest of the water. When that one is also satisfied, it shuts off.

Either thermostat stuck on means trouble.

In my experience, an element buried in lime simply burns out. Then you have a shortage of hot water because the bottom element never heats the water in the bottom of the tank, so your showers turn lukewarm quickly.

Another possibility, though I haven't had it happen, is for the limed-up element to fracture, causing leakage current to ground through the water. That might be what Jake is thinking of. I have not heard of that causing significant heating of the water. Mineral content would have to be pretty high for that to happen. I suppose it's possible.

Sorry to say, it sounds like your home warranty was a waste of money. There may be some that are OK, but I've never known anyone who had one who didn't waste valuable time arguing to get decent service - and seldom getting it anyway.

The last electric water heater I had installed was in a rental late last year. The total cost was just under $700. If I were you, I'd just have a new WH put in - BY A QUALIFIED PLUMBER, not that clown - and move on.

Don't hesitate to explore the possibility of replacing your Electric Hot Water Heater with a Hybrid Electric Hot Water Heater. At first blush they seem more expensive, but there are almost always State, Local, and Utility Rebate and/or tax credits that make them competitive. My Hybrid unit - 50 Gallon, two people using - save us more than $40 per month in electrical usage. YMMV.

Lowes carries them as to Home Depot and other suppliers.

Update-My home warranty company has dispatched it to a new plumbing company. Since I am technically partially disputing the first plumber’s findings (that it was caused by an electrical surge) a different plumber has to take a look and see if he agrees with the first plumber or if he says it needs to be replaced but not because of an electrical surge.

I currently have the power off to the unit because I don’t want it to overheat and deal with whatever happens when that happens. My question is what do I do now? If I leave the breaker flipped off the plumber will report that the breaker was flipped so that is why it’s not working. It will start to heat up after he flips it back on and he’ll say it is fixed. I called the new plumbing company and have an appointment scheduled for Tuesday 7am-noon. I gave them the history of what is happening and they said the tech will call me 30 minutes before he gets to my place and that I should turn the breaker on then. It started the wind “shhhhh” sound at 1:30 am this morning, 12 hours after the electrician left. If I turn the breaker on 30 minutes before the plumber gets here he’ll likely see that there is hot water so it’s technically working but I have no idea if it will be shhhing/overheating by then. I did video the sound I heard this morning. In the video you can hear it (it was louder in person) and it shows that I flipped the breaker and the sound stops. I can't upload that here though. I’ve also asked the electrician for his report showing that there wasn’t an electrical surge. Any ideas?

The lowest quote I've got so far was the $1,700. The company that came out through Home Depot said that to give me quote he would need someone to come out and cut the drywall to see how much of a leaking pipe needs to be replaced. The other plumber that gave me a quote was $2,300+. I'll keep looking for estimates and try Lowes.

The back and forth is very frustrating. However I'm currently working from home. Welcoming them and repeating the situation to the next person is starting to feel like a routine.

@DavidR - yes, the broken element shorting to ground is exactly what I described. I've seen it happen plenty of times.

@Stax - She doesn't have the free air space for a hybrid - and probably not the budget either since she just moved in.

@Ash - The heater tripped the high-temp reset a couple of times. Then it overheated. You shouldn't have to rationalize anything to anyone beyond that. Neither should you have to disprove the nonsense about an "electrical surge" just because some half-wit farted that idea. Again- there's absolutely no storm, no damage to sensitive electronic equipment or appliances.

Turning the breaker on and having them walk away isn't an option - and its a safety hazard. You run the risk of a very serious burn because of excessively hot water or an explosion that could level the house. Don't turn it back on for any length of time. If anyone suggests that explain to them that they will be criminally liable for their negligence and see if they still think it's a great idea.

A skilled person would use an amp meter to confirm that the element isn't drawing the correct current when switched on and/or would use an ohm meter to detect that it was shorting to ground and not the correct resistance (probably open) across the two terminals. They could even pull the element - but that would require time and effort.

I think I missed where you said the plumbing was leaking?!? (cut the drywall?)
Look, unless I'm missing something this is a straightforward easy replacement $900-1000 total.

Ash: You may be overthinking this. Your explanation of events to the new plumber should be enough.

BTW: electric water heaters make a noise then they are heating. Like an electric tea pot or percolator. Yes, it's kinda like wind blowing.