Wolf rangetop has 16K on all burners. I found mine new (4 burners & griddle) for $2K plus tax but I got lucky. (Local appliance store had a 'garage sale' and the unit was old stock that had been a special order for a customer who backed out.) I've seen used ones go worth the money on eBay but the trick is finding one close to where you live so that you don't have the expense & risk of shipping. A lot of sellers won't ship because the units are large and heavy.

Tigerdunes. My house is 1900 sq ft, to be honest I have no idea what size the current heat pump is, it's original to the house which was built in 1986, its a Trane. The reason for the hybrid water heater in the duel fuel quote is to meet the efficiency standards for the NJ clean energy program, a natural gas hot water heater does not reach those standards. My current electric rate is .087 per kwh for supply. if I average in delivery it comes out to about .132 per kwh. gas rates are about .50 cents per Therm. Thanks Mike, I was afraid of prices being inflated when using the program. I know carrier is supposed to be top of the line but a 5-6k difference seems a little much. That is why I'm trying to get a few more quotes from contractors who do not participate in the program. I've talked to 2 carrier dealers and they both want to push to the program. The other dealer didn't offer a duel fuel option he just went to the most expensive heatpump they offer through the program and the gas option was about 2k more than the one I listed above. I've looked in to what is actually done when air sealing and what they are proposing I could probably do myself for a few hundred bucks, it doesn't seem worth it to me.

The answer is typically yes. Ask the electrician what the upcost would be to do what you are asking for. Also make sure that you are talking with at least 3 different companies. 3 bids will give you a good idea if your guy is whack or on track! Good luck

Matching new and newfangled systems to existing homes can be very challenging. All electric homes were typically very well insulated but even that might not be up to today’s standards. Have there been improvements in air sealing and insulation since the home was built? I can see why the hydronic coil might be useful. You don’t have room for a furnace where the existing air handler is, and the the duct system can’t be made to work with a furnace in the basement. There are a couple of problems to consider with the hydrocoil idea. To have a large capacity, hydrocoils need to be big or run hot, your choice. Since you don’t have room for a furnace with the existing AHU, you might not have room for a big hydrocoil either. You might be able to ameliorate this somewhat with more than one coil in the ductwork if it can be fit. Ok what is the problem with a hot hydrocoil? That seems logical after all. It has to be hot to provide heat, right? It boils down to physics if you'll forgive the cheap humor. For anywhere near efficient boiler operation, you need your return water to be below 130 F. Even lower, much lower, is better. Hot water-driven convectors (aluminum fin baseboards) also need relatively hot water, but not nearly as hot as a typical hydrocoil in an AHU. Toe-kick heaters are hydrocoils. Radiant floor heat can use very low temp water and are a good match for condensing boilers. Cast iron radiators are pretty good too, falling between the convectors and radiant floor heat. You can run them all from one boiler as well as domestic hot water (and melt the snow on your driveway if you want) and it can all be done with upwards of 95% combustion efficiency with skillful design. That is easy with a new building, but you have to be somewhat lucky with an existing home. You also have to know a lot of stuff yourself or have a very good installer. With a boiler in the basement, you could run the hydrocoil and install baseboard close by in the basement in a separate zone. My only caveat there is that small zones can be a problem without a buffer to keep the boiler from short cycling. Maybe efficiency of the boiler is not your top concern. After all, you are going from electricity as fuel to nat gas. The difference between boilers burning at 82 and 98% might not be a big deal. Just don’t let someone install a high efficiency boiler that can’t take advantage of that design because you can’t both run it at low water temps and keep your house warm. It won’t work very well. Note that in less than the coldest weather if the system is set up right, you can still run in an efficient mode with lower water temps, just not for as much of the time. If a modulating/condensing boiler is dropped into a system where it is snapping on and off a lot and can’t condense, it will be neither efficient nor last long. They are not built for that and since they cost more, even a bigger waste of money right from the start.