Is there an issue with replacing toilet before doing complete remodel?
Keara Newton
4 years ago
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4 years agoRelated Discussions
Bathroom Remodel Complete (w/Photo) - Thank You
Comments (30)Follow Ups to Questions 2: The entire construction process was probably 8 weeks elapsed. There were holidays, weather problems, you name it. The actual schedule was bizarre. A week or so of demo in March, an unexpected 6 month hiatus, then back again for November & December and final details in January. The time after demo turned out to be a good thing as we changed many items and even the actual design - all for the better. The room dimensions are a bit irregular. The area of marble floor is 7ft x 7ft. The tub is 3 ft wide, so the room more or less is 7x10 (not including the little alcoves at the head of the tub and shower areas). The ceiling height is a little over 9 ft. The JVI light is "large" and the bottom is probably at 6'9" or so (we made sure all contractors' heads cleared). We removed several links of chain to get the right height. Not sure the large light would work with an eight foot ceiling looking at it now. One of the other similar styles would do the trick though. As for the Amma, I didn't notice the slope to be all that different - but I might not have been paying attention. This only a 66" tub - not a lot of room. What I did notice is the curved back. For me, the flat back was not as comfortable as the curve. The other things that I looked for in my search were arm rests and grab bars. These two items I use every time I get in or out. Must be getting old....See MoreNew toilet before major bathroom remodeling
Comments (3)John, a consideration is that the new toilet have what is referred to as a "setback" that will fit in your existing and future plumbing schemes. Setback is how far the center of the flange (the waste hole that goes into the floor) has to be from the wall behind the toilet for the toilet to be attached to the flange and for the toilet tank to be within proper distance, about 1/2", from the rear wall. Typical setbacks are 10", 12", and 14", with 12" being most common. A good way to determine the existing setback is to measure the distance along the floor from the wall (not the baseboard) behind the toilet to the flange bolt that secures the toilet to the floor/flange. If the distance measured is about 12" and there's an approximate 1/2" gap between the wall and the toilet tank, then you have a 12" toilet on a 12" setback. If, however, you measure about 12" from wall to bolt but you have a 2-1/2" gap between the toilet tank and the rear wall, then you likely have a 10" toilet on a flange installed with a 12" setback. The misfit toilet is the reason for the large gap between the tank and the wall. Mongo...See MoreOMB replacement toilet too far from wall. What to do?
Comments (14)Laurie- Thanks for pointing out that the wobbly bit is not a problem for you. I was reading too quickly again... As for the the sink, you're right that that kind of sink should be butted to the wall. And that is for structural reasons because there is a bracket and/or bolts on the wall that hold it firmly in place and mounting it with a gap would be an unstable installation. On the other hand, the toilet is supposed to be mounted firmly to the floor, and yours is. Just because they are side-by-side does not mean the toilet looks funny because it is not butted to the wall. Besides, in my last house I did have one toilet that was only about 3/4" from the wall and it made it difficult to clean in that narrow space, so it accumulated dust and spiderwebs back there. Honestly, to me, the placement looks perfect for that style of toilet. I know this is bugging you now, but I hope you can just accept it rather than thinking you need to replace it. I showed the picture to my wife and asked her if anything looked wrong with the toilet, and she couldn't guess what the problem was. I have seen photos where something was wrong with the placement of the flange, which did result in a too-large gap, but yours looks fine to me. Good luck....See MoreDo you lay wood floor before or after cabinets in a remodel
Comments (10)Hmm I would say first for tiles etc, but for a lay down click or slot or whatever you want to call it, floating floor, I'm told you should NOT run the flooring right under the cabinets. I was told this by my ex boss who was a moron in many regards but knew what he was talking about in this regard. Apparently you get too much movement if the cabinets sit atop this type of floor. He recommended that you lay the floor AFTER, also eliminating risk of damage to floor, naturally you have to make height allowances, but get kitchen installers to leave the kick panel off - then you have open space under cupboards. Flooring is laid up to - but allowing space around - the plastic leg things that hold kitchen cupboards up these days. Then, once floor is in place, kickboards are put in, so they run flush to the floor. They look just as good as floor will continue some distance under kickboard, but your cupboards will be sitting on a solid, stable floor, where they won't move - movement would cause problems with your splashback joints and possibly with any tiling....See MoreUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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