You have 2 different fertilizers - one is slow release (not 'controlled' release - they're different) the other is water soluble, so in view of that fact, it's probably not a good idea to mix them. Also, 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers are formulated to provide nutrients in the ratio that the average plant actually takes up the nutrients. That means that ALL nutrients are represented as a function of N. IOW - you need a specific amount of each nutrient to compliment each unit of N the plant uses. In this case, if you mix equal volumes of 24-8-16 with the 12-4-8, and could figure out how to apply them properly, the combined mixture would still only have 2/3 as much of the secondary macros and all micros as the plant would need. If you want to use the slow release rose formula for containers, let me know how much you have and how much each bag weighs. I'll figure out how much Micromax is needed to "fill in the missing blanks' and send it to you - assuming you live in the US or a US Territory. Al

Hi Map1e, I'm doubtful that your tree was grafted. Although your tree could've been grafted its more work for the nursery and why would they do that when a fig does fine on its own roots? I would suggest that you try to root some of your cuttings or if you have any suckers come up pot those up and compare them to the mother tree. If its grafted the suckers and the cuttings that you took will be different. Either the fruit color or leaf structure would be different. Would it be a robust plant if you air layered.... Yes, the fig would have a good headstart if you air layered a section of your 10 ft tree and cut it down to 6ft you would have a 4 ft tree instantly...well almost, you'd have to have roots develop first. I guess that your current option for propagating more trees would be to root some cuttings. Good luck, Little John

The reason why my post was weird was because I deleted it and started over. I didn't know the post went somewhere else other than on the public forum. I am sorry. I had questions about the graft and staking and then decided to go in a different direction. I could not find the graft in the picture. Usually it is quite visable and with yours it wasn't because there were 3 branches growing horizontal. Where I thought the graft would be, you had branches below it. Those are normally removed. I think your graft was on the left of the picture and the main branch became too heavy without staking and guidance. The weight made the branch fall over which explains why it is longer on one side. I am just speculating due to the shape. If a tree is top heavy, then staking is helpful until the stem is thick enough to hold up its own canopy. I normally take the stakes out of a new tree when repotting . It depends on the plant. I brought home this spring a Hamlin orange from Lowes. The tree was U shaped, bending towards the ground. I put it into a larger pot and staked it up for a few months. Now it can hold itself up straight. To get the tree how you want it, it will have to be pruned. You have a lot of thin branches on the bottom which I would remove.

You need to keep them watered in the heat of Qatar. Also- its possible the water you have is too salty? minerally,hard? You might use bottled water for the young mangoes and later they will have enough roots. Also,if not the water? Then its still residual damage from the salts in the manure. Its going to take more time than a few days. It might totally defoliate...but if the trunk stays firm? You will see new buds. Success! You might whitewash the trunk..Mango wood will burn if exposed to high desert heat. That would kill the tree also.